06-11-2017, 03:48 PM | #1 |
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Break in
After my PCD in July, I will be spending the weekend in the mountains. Blue Ridge Parkway, 421 The Snake, Diamondback, Etc.
How do I need to limit my driving with this engine? How many miles? Thanks in advance.... |
06-11-2017, 03:58 PM | #2 |
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06-11-2017, 04:08 PM | #3 |
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thanks. in summary.....
warm up first. every time. then keep under 5500rpm for first 1200 miles. vary speed and throttle. got it! |
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06-11-2017, 04:13 PM | #4 |
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Depends what you mean by 'warm up'. In the olden days, you were supposed to idle to warm it up.. You definitely dont need or want to do that today.
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06-11-2017, 09:58 PM | #7 |
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Vary the rpm and don't get in it until warm. Oh yea, go easy on the brakes for the first 200 miles. Other than that, enjoy and don't worry about anything else.
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06-12-2017, 11:37 AM | #8 |
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Why go easy on the brakes? I feel like they need to be bedded in properly as my feel spongey after a quick canyon run...either the stock pads are really bad and fade pretty easily or I really need to bed the pads in to get them to work properly. Curious what your reasoning is though...
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06-12-2017, 12:17 PM | #9 |
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Just use common sense. If your brakes feel spongy then something doesn't sound right to me. I feel like I could be catapulted through the windshield when I hit mine. I did some minor bedding in runs, but nothing crazy.
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06-12-2017, 01:13 PM | #10 |
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I need to drive the car (hard) more to see if the brakes really were fading - I didn't want to lose brakes in the canyon so I slowed down and took it easy...what type of bedding did you do? I'm worried the BMW brake fluid will also boil and want to swap to Castrol SRF
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06-12-2017, 01:35 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech....jsp?techid=85 https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/bedding-in/
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06-12-2017, 01:54 PM | #12 |
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Interesting that I have not seen one person discuss the manual's reference to 1200 to 3100 miles and what to do. The car is not fully broken in at 1200 mi/2000 km.
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06-12-2017, 02:33 PM | #13 |
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I read that fully, and if anything have taken it fairly conservative so far up to 997 miles as of yesterday and will do the same over the next break-in range. On bedding brakes, I normally will do a few higher speed stops with constant pressure and then completely let off not holding the pedal down of course. Then drive away as usual. I did this after the first couple hundred miles in which I did the same but at lower speeds. Biggest mistake seems to be inexperienced drivers braking late and hard and then hold the pedal down, hence warped rotors etc...again, just use common senses. Love the brakes on this car, but then again I haven't had it on the track with prolonged hard braking sessions.
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06-12-2017, 05:44 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
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06-12-2017, 05:52 PM | #15 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
I always followed the StopTech white paper (here). Here's the StopTech procedure (which also states that 30x might be necessary - crazy): Quote:
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06-12-2017, 06:02 PM | #16 |
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Too much information, I need a nap now, so many different pad compounds and rotor materials out there nowadays. Look at battery technology for example, what use to be the correct way to charge may kill your new battery prematurely. Hard to keep up sometimes....
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06-12-2017, 06:45 PM | #18 |
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06-13-2017, 05:58 AM | #19 | ||
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Seriously, these are amazing cars - just drive it.
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06-13-2017, 08:19 AM | #20 |
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This motor makes enough torque that there it shouldn't be that hard to stay under 5500. Take it from someone who's owned a few new M cars.. waaayyy harder back E9x and prior days.
Ultimately though guys, read your manuals. They are written that way for a reason. You can call it nonsense if you want but that's the factory recommended procedure and it's not that difficult.
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06-13-2017, 08:38 AM | #21 | |
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