[marmit2017]

Idk if you'd be able to help but it's worth a shot. I have an 09 328i xdrive and I've had this light on. The brake light was never on, just the 4x4 abs. I diagnosed it using icarly and it said something about the transfercase. So I changed the transfer case actuator and the front wheels have power and they're moving but the light still remains and I've tried to erase the memory and no help. After erasing the memory I'm still getting this fault[IMG][/IMG]

[ucdbiendog]

foot in mouth, was thinking of 54c4 code. With that said i would still look at the t-case. when you say front wheels still spin, is that just up on the lift (ie no load)? how are you able to verify they have "power" (ie load)? it is possible that they are spinning as a result of friction in the fluid, but if you apply any load to the wheels they will not spin...

[marmit2017]

Originally Posted by ucdbiendog

foot in mouth, was thinking of 54c4 code. With that said i would still look at the t-case. when you say front wheels still spin, is that just up on the lift (ie no load)? how are you able to verify they have "power" (ie load)? it is possible that they are spinning as a result of friction in the fluid, but if you apply any load to the wheels they will not spin...

Can you point me in the right direction? I've looked everywhere about this subject and only thing that came up was the motor actuator

[marmit2017]

Originally Posted by ucdbiendog

foot in mouth, was thinking of 54c4 code. With that said i would still look at the t-case. when you say front wheels still spin, is that just up on the lift (ie no load)? how are you able to verify they have "power" (ie load)? it is possible that they are spinning as a result of friction in the fluid, but if you apply any load to the wheels they will not spin...

On a lift

[ucdbiendog]

Originally Posted by marmit2017

On a lift

I would take it with a grain of salt then. I don't know how you would test that safely either, maybe on a 4WD dyno? did you also change the resistor on the actuator motor? I seem to recall seeing somewhere that needs to be coded....

[marmit2017]

Originally Posted by ucdbiendog

I would take it with a grain of salt then. I don't know how you would test that safely either, maybe on a 4WD dyno? did you also change the resistor on the actuator motor? I seem to recall seeing somewhere that needs to be coded....

Yes the resistor was changed. Regardless of whether the 4x4 worked under pressure or not the new actuator didn't remove the error on the dash even after trying to clear all errors. I read somewhere it could be due to some needle in the transmission that isn't locking in place? Or something like that. Do you know what I should try next

[ucdbiendog]

Originally Posted by marmit2017

Yes the resistor was changed. Regardless of whether the 4x4 worked under pressure or not the new actuator didn't remove the error on the dash even after trying to clear all errors. I read somewhere it could be due to some needle in the transmission that isn't locking in place? Or something like that. Do you know what I should try next

check this thread out if for nothing less than to get an idea what the inside looks like:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1317462
What was wrong in those two cases was a needle BEARING basically disintegrated, causing the clutchpack to not be able to engage. A way you can check that (at least this is what my mechanic did when i brought it in) is to remove the actuator motor, and stick your finger inside the t-case to feel for the gear (the clutch gear that the actuator is supposed to engage). If the gear is there, can you spin it to a point where it is no longer going to contact the actuator? the cost of doing this check is the fluid since it will need to be drained. I would probably start with having the resistor coded to see if that helps.

[marmit2017]

Originally Posted by ucdbiendog

check this thread out if for nothing less than to get an idea what the inside looks like:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1317462
What was wrong in those two cases was a needle BEARING basically disintegrated, causing the clutchpack to not be able to engage. A way you can check that (at least this is what my mechanic did when i brought it in) is to remove the actuator motor, and stick your finger inside the t-case to feel for the gear (the clutch gear that the actuator is supposed to engage). If the gear is there, can you spin it to a point where it is no longer going to contact the actuator? the cost of doing this check is the fluid since it will need to be drained. I would probably start with having the resistor coded to see if that helps.

I have several coding softwares and devices, what do you mean to have the resistor coded? It was also changed. And does the gear look like this

[ucdbiendog]

no, i have never seen such a gear. i believe there is a value on the resistor that needs to be coded into the car. i did not do this myself, the shop to which i brought my car did (so they said), so my knowledge is limited to that.

[Lexxxx]

Originally Posted by marmit2017

Idk if you'd be able to help but it's worth a shot. I have an 09 328i xdrive and I've had this light on. The brake light was never on, just the 4x4 abs. I diagnosed it using icarly and it said something about the transfercase. So I changed the transfer case actuator and the front wheels have power and they're moving but the light still remains and I've tried to erase the memory and no help. After erasing the memory I'm still getting this fault[IMG][/IMG]

ever figure out the problem to this?

[marmit2017]

Originally Posted by Lexxxx

ever figure out the problem to this?

Nope. I read somewhere that it needs calibration because of the new resistor, but I haven't had time to look deeper into it yet