[HP Autosport]

…a must for all modern “Sporty-Driven” (manual) BMWs.


The “Ultimate Clutch Pedal” is a short-throw clutch pedal made of billet aluminum and 6061 aluminum tube.

It fits all LHD manual BMW 3-series cars 2007 and up. Includes (E90/92 and up including F-models) along with all manual 1-series cars and X1 chassis.

“Slop” is completely eliminated by the use of precision maintenance-free bronze bushings and stiff billet CNC-design pivot block.

Feel is greatly increased due to the elimination of all plastic and flex in the pedal system.

The slightly shorter throw makes for quicker shifting and a more positive feel.

Lower pedal resting location (15mm lower) lines up pedal better when braking and requires less “leg-lift” from the dead-pedal.

The over-center spring is user adjustable with 3 settings (Stock - Sport - Race).

Includes adjustable clutch stop that allows user to fine-tune the pedal travel distance and carpet clearance.

Satin tumbled surface is then finished in anodized black.

Pedal pad shape is compatible with OEM rubber or any after-market pedal pad kit.

Easy end-user installation requires no alterations to the car and no special tools.

Race-proven performance – positive feedback… Tested by amateur and professional racers.

[DivideBYZero]

I need two.

[Click821]

Price on this?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Click821

Price on this?

Can't post prices in this section.

It's listed here:

http://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...light=ultimate

[monochrom3]

Installed last night and love it. Thanks for the deal!

[K9GunSlinger]

interested, however ive heard of the transmission syncro issues that people have talked about when installing the BMS clutch stop. Would this product have similar repercussions? or is there something different int he design that prevents the premature wear on syncros etc... ( i understand these are two completely different products, BMS clutch stop vs the entire clutch pedal)

Thanks!

[McPurrs]

I mean.... F87 is in the damn URL... cmon

[monochrom3]

Originally Posted by K9GunSlinger

interested, however ive heard of the transmission syncro issues that people have talked about when installing the BMS clutch stop. Would this product have similar repercussions? or is there something different int he design that prevents the premature wear on syncros etc... ( i understand these are two completely different products, BMS clutch stop vs the entire clutch pedal)

Thanks!

I don't see the pedal itself as something to cause premature syncro wear. The pedal does come with a thicker clutch stop also, so if you're worried, then just don't put that in

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by K9GunSlinger

interested, however ive heard of the transmission syncro issues that people have talked about when installing the BMS clutch stop. Would this product have similar repercussions? or is there something different int he design that prevents the premature wear on syncros etc... ( i understand these are two completely different products, BMS clutch stop vs the entire clutch pedal)

Thanks!

An improper shifting technique is usually the cause of accelerated synchro wear not an improperly adjusted clutch stop.

[K9GunSlinger]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

An improper shifting technique is usually the cause of accelerated synchro wear not an improperly adjusted clutch stop.

Any examples of improper shifting technique, or tips for the correct way?

[sh_kross]

Originally Posted by K9GunSlinger

Any examples of improper shifting technique, or tips for the correct way?

Seconded. What is the proper shifting technique? I don't think I'm causing damage to the synchronizers, and I haven't installed my clutch stop yet, but I only just started learning to drive manual.

[imolam3]

Originally Posted by K9GunSlinger

Any examples of improper shifting technique, or tips for the correct way?

Best way to learn is to attend a local HPDE event, your instructor can show you how to shift properly. You're in OC so plenty of track days in the area.

[M2guru]

Putting fire-proof underwear on here: The POTENTIAL issue for the clutch stop is that it is POSSIBLE that the clutch stop is too high which COULD stop the clutch from fully disengaging - meaning the clutch COULD be always dragging and the shafts COULD BE spinning with more resistance that they should be POTENTIALLY causing premature wear to the synchros. If you know that it's not dragging, you're good. This pedal likely would have no impact on that aspect if the travel is allowed to go through it's full range of motion allowing the clutch to fully disengage.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by M2guru

Putting fire-proof underwear on here: The POTENTIAL issue for the clutch stop is that it is POSSIBLE that the clutch stop is too high which COULD stop the clutch from fully disengaging - meaning the clutch COULD be always dragging and the shafts COULD BE spinning with more resistance that they should be POTENTIALLY causing premature wear to the synchros. If you know that it's not dragging, you're good. This pedal likely would have no impact on that aspect if the travel is allowed to go through it's full range of motion allowing the clutch to fully disengage.

Yes, it is possible to have too much of a good thing. One needs to make sure the clutch can fully disengage with the pedal fully depressed.

[F87_LCI]

Originally Posted by M2guru

Putting fire-proof underwear on here: The POTENTIAL issue for the clutch stop is that it is POSSIBLE that the clutch stop is too high which COULD stop the clutch from fully disengaging - meaning the clutch COULD be always dragging and the shafts COULD BE spinning with more resistance that they should be POTENTIALLY causing premature wear to the synchros. If you know that it's not dragging, you're good. This pedal likely would have no impact on that aspect if the travel is allowed to go through it's full range of motion allowing the clutch to fully disengage.

The clutch stop is at the bottom of the throw, not the top, so how could it be "always dragging"? When the clutch is released it goes to it's stock position... unaffected by the clutch stop. When the clutch is depressed this is where the clutch stop in theory could prevent it from fully disengaging so that you can make your shift. Which I'm assuming would be identified by the lovey sound of grinding gears. So you should know pretty quickly if your clutch stop is too big. Am I missing something?

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by LSB --> LBB

The clutch stop is at the bottom of the throw, not the top, so how could it be "always dragging"? When the clutch is released it goes to it's stock position... unaffected by the clutch stop. When the clutch is depressed this is where the clutch stop in theory could prevent it from fully disengaging so that you can make your shift. Which I'm assuming would be identified by the lovey sound of grinding gears. So you should know pretty quickly if your clutch stop is too big. Am I missing something?

"Always be dragging" was supposed to refer to every time you push the pedal in, the clutch may not be completely releasing the disc from between the flywheel and the pressure plate. This doesn't mean that you will hear the gears grind, but it could mean that you are stressing/wearing the synchros because the clutch isn't releasing when the pedal is depressed.

You're not missing anything - my phrasing may have been confusing. I wasn't referring to when the pedal is released, but depressed.

[TT1351]

So what's the trick to remove the plastic covering that hides the top of the pedals, I found 2, 10mm nuts but can't contort myself to get a good view. TIA

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by TT1351

So what's the trick to remove the plastic covering that hides the top of the pedals, I found 2, 10mm nuts but can't contort myself to get a good view. TIA

It's much easier than that. Just push up (towards the dash) where the plastic cover meets the carpet by the clutch pedal arm/lever and you'll see the nickel/dime sized white rubber piece that comes out rather easily. No tools needed (maybe a flashlight).

[TT1351]

I'm looking to remove it to install an Ultimate Clutch Pedal, thanks for responding. Appreciate it, should have stated that in my original post.

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by TT1351

I'm looking to remove it to install an Ultimate Clutch Pedal, thanks for responding. Appreciate it, should have stated that in my original post.

Sorry about that.

[TT1351]

No worries. Apparently after the 2 nuts are removed there are three spring clips that hold the cover in place.

[TT1351]

After removing the two 10mm nuts, the cover needs to be lifted past the two studs that the 10mm nuts attach to, once that is done there are three spring clips that attach the cover to the piece above it, takes some finesse but they pop out, unplug the two connectors and move the lower trim panel from the foot well. Once done the fun begins. Just an FYI.

Originally Posted by TT1351

So what's the trick to remove the plastic covering that hides the top of the pedals, I found 2, 10mm nuts but can't contort myself to get a good view. TIA