[Tim603]

Hey Guys,

Want to hear from you all out there with any of these variants and what you recommend.

I am upgrading turbos soon and need to upgrade my clutch. My goal is 530-550whp. I have come to terms with the "chatter" or drivetrain noise so now I want the best option for drive-ability and clutch life.

I am going to get the SPEC Steel single mass flywheel (SB53S-2) but the question in what clutch do I get?

Spec Stage 2+ (SB533H-2) 545 torque capacity - Carbon/semi-metallic and Kevlar clutch disc


Spec Stage 3 (SB533-2) 580 torque capacity - carbon/semi-metallic 6 puck clutch disk



Spec Stage 3+ (SB533F-2) 671 torque capacity - carbon/semi-metallic full faced clutch disk



Now you're probably thinking the most logical thing to do would be stage 2+ however, I want to hear what you all think and your personal experiences. I have read a few threads and most people swear by the 3+ others really like the 2+

Any advice is appreciated!

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=839608
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=839608

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

The answer will fall back onto how much power you plan on making. It will also factor into if you are going with an upgraded single turbo or upgraded twins. I can tell you now you wont want a 3. The 3 is not full face so engagement is rough. That's why people either go 2+ or 3+ for better drivability.

Now, spec rates the 2+ at 545 torque. Honestly, it's under-rated but here is the best way to decide.

If you plan on keeping torque moderate at say 550WTQ the 2+ will handle it. If you plan on going over that number then 3+ is your answer.

If you are doing upgraded twins with gobs of torque down low, you may want the 3+ anyway. The single turbo's usually have less meat in the mid range which is why they can get away with the 2+ too.

That simple. Let me know if you have any other questions. Also if you have a flash tune you can raise your idle and most of the rattle noise goes away.

[TEC]

Things may have changed but I would look somewhere else for a clutch. I had VERY bad experiences with Spec on another platform.

[Tim603]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

The answer will fall back onto how much power you plan on making. It will also factor into if you are going with an upgraded single turbo or upgraded twins. I can tell you now you wont want a 3. The 3 is not full face so engagement is rough. That's why people either go 2+ or 3+ for better drivability.

Now, spec rates the 2+ at 545 torque. Honestly, it's under-rated but here is the best way to decide.

If you plan on keeping torque moderate at say 550WTQ the 2+ will handle it. If you plan on going over that number then 3+ is your answer.

If you are doing upgraded twins with gobs of torque down low, you may want the 3+ anyway. The single turbo's usually have less meat in the mid range which is why they can get away with the 2+ too.

That simple. Let me know if you have any other questions. Also if you have a flash tune you can raise your idle and most of the rattle noise goes away.

Thanks for the advice Jeff, I am going upgraded twins. I think 3+ is my best bet. Since both 3+ and 2+ are full face like you say I think drive-ability should be about the same.

[Tim603]

Originally Posted by TEC

Things may have changed but I would look somewhere else for a clutch. I had VERY bad experiences with Spec on another platform.

Damn sorry to hear that, I have also seen heard questionable thing on other platforms as well. This particular setup tho seems to have some pretty good success overall

[Torgus]

Amazingly spec has a good reputation on this platform. It does not on others. When I first got into this platform I was amazed it was the goto but they seem to have gotten things right for the e9x.

3+ gets my vote. I have one. Easy to DD. Holds a ton. I can't imagine it drives much different from the 2+ but it holds more. People have good luck with the 2+ but if you are in there doing the job I don't see why not upgrading to the 3+ and be done with it iirc it's small money between the two.

Also spec is rated at the flywheel not wheels. Granted they have been proven to hold closer to their flywheel rating but a 671 crank car is closer to 600tq. Just something to keep in mind. 2+ is 545 flywheel but in theory much closer to 475wtq. Again we know they hold more as shiv beat the shit out of one with his single years ago.

[Indo Rider]

Ive had the 2+ for about 45k miles. No issues whatsoever. About 10k miles ago I installed pure st2 turbos and port injection. I bought a spec 3+ at the same time, but figured I'd wait to install till the 2+ started slipping. Running 25 psi now and still no slip, the 2+ is holding nicely. When its done I'll install the 3+, but I've honestly been impressed with the 2+.

[Torgus]

Originally Posted by Indo Rider

Ive had the 2+ for about 45k miles. No issues whatsoever. About 10k miles ago I installed pure st2 turbos and port injection. I bought a spec 3+ at the same time, but figured I'd wait to install till the 2+ started slipping. Running 25 psi now and still no slip, the 2+ is holding nicely. When its done I'll install the 3+, but I've honestly been impressed with the 2+.

What is the cost difference?

Be interesting to see your review after you install the 3+ having had a 2+.

[MDORPHN]

I have a little-used SPEC Stg. 2+ w/single mass steel fly for sale. SB533H-2 clutch and SB53S-3 fly.

Contact me offline if interested.

Neil

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Tim603

Thanks for the advice Jeff, I am going upgraded twins. I think 3+ is my best bet. Since both 3+ and 2+ are full face like you say I think drive-ability should be about the same.

Sounds good, let me know if you need anything else.

Originally Posted by Torgus

Amazingly spec has a good reputation on this platform. It does not on others. When I first got into this platform I was amazed it was the goto but they seem to have gotten things right for the e9x.

3+ gets my vote. I have one. Easy to DD. Holds a ton. I can't imagine it drives much different from the 2+ but it holds more. People have good luck with the 2+ but if you are in there doing the job I don't see why not upgrading to the 3+ and be done with it iirc it's small money between the two.

Also spec is rated at the flywheel not wheels. Granted they have been proven to hold closer to their flywheel rating but a 671 crank car is closer to 600tq. Just something to keep in mind. 2+ is 545 flywheel but in theory much closer to 475wtq. Again we know they hold more as shiv beat the shit out of one with his single years ago.

You know what's funny about clutch companies, they all have a bad reputation and a good reputation. I've been in platforms where people won't touch ACT, Clutchmasters, Exedy, ETC. It's really best to find the clutch that works for your specific platform, it doesn't always transfer over to another vehicle for some reason.

Yea the 2+ is under-rated for sure though. If you looked at the numbers only people would be only going for the 3+ but hte reality is there is plenty of 500WTQ guys out there with the 2+ in 40K+ miles too.

[Ozzie335i]

Tim, I have the Spec 3 + and MFactoy combo. Works fine. Neil's 2+ would work ok as well. As far as chatter, get the MHD tune, turn up the idle to 900 and fuggetaboutit.

[Tim603]

Great advice guys, thanks for all the input. Stage 3+ is what I'm leaning towards, seems like it's fine for a daily and in case I ever want to go over my power goals I still have some room

[Tim603]

Spec stage 3+ ftw! Thanks for the feedback guys

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Good decision. Nice goodies there!

[Ozzie335i]

Tim, do you have all the bolts? Also, if you haven't already gotten it, do consider the delay valve bypass. With either the 2+ or the 3+ the clutch is going to grab anyhow, so having the stock valve is a waste. About 20 bucks. And change the tranny fluid.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Tim603

Spec stage 3+ ftw! Thanks for the feedback guys

Good luck with it

[Tim603]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

Tim, do you have all the bolts? Also, if you haven't already gotten it, do consider the delay valve bypass. With either the 2+ or the 3+ the clutch is going to grab anyhow, so having the stock valve is a waste. About 20 bucks. And change the tranny fluid.

Yep got all the bolts, cdv delete has been done and did the fluid about 15k ago so I should be good

[Grand_hustle17]

I would love to take a ride in a stg3 or 3+... ive driven the stg2+ and did not like it.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Grand_hustle17

I would love to take a ride in a stg3 or 3+... ive driven the stg2+ and did not like it.

If you didn't like a 2+ which is the closest to stock you won't like 3 or 3+.

Nobody gets a 3 anyway, as that is 6 puck. It's either 2+ or 3+ for the Spec line up.

[Ozzie335i]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

If you didn't like a 2+ which is the closest to stock you won't like 3 or 3+.

Nobody gets a 3 anyway, as that is 6 puck. It's either 2+ or 3+ for the Spec line up.

I suspect GJ wants to give reasons why his 1800 dollar clutch is superior. Grand, the ball has been teed up. Bring it.

I have the 3 + and MFactory SMFW. Some may find the 3 + grabby. But with over 500 hp, you need grabby. And it is a good idea to know how to properly use a clutch before going with a performance clutch. Not knocking anybody here, but there is a reason BMW went with the delay valve. We all know why. As far as how hard the pedal on the 3 + is, some say too stiff. I go the opposite, I felt that the stock clutch was kind of light. A performance clutch must be heavier in order to clamp. If these two things are an issue, people should stick with automatics, and maybe the cool F1 inspired shifter paddles on the steering wheel.

[Blown95ImpalaSS]

very impressed with spec 2+ and steel SMFW. about 1500 miles in on e50 fbo + inlets and it's getting nice and soft, maybe 30% more pressure needed than oem. there is chatter but it's easy to ignore, haven't bothered to adjust idle inthe flash.