[BMWMusician]

My e93 has about 48k mi, and last week after letting it run idle, and checking inpa for rdc faults (getting tpms errors), the car starting making a very loud roaring or fan noise, as if it was going to explode.

Is there a way I can visually check, or do a diagnostic in inpa to see if the waterpump is going out or something else, or do I have to just drive it until the check engine or car fails?

I would like to bring it to the dealer, but A.) its about a hour away, and B.) It sucks cause if it works up to that point, its a $140 diagnostic fee. Or in other words from a BMW rep regarding the hpfp recall "if the part hasn't failed, they won't replace it".

[kkasson]

The water pump usually throws a DME code before it fails completely. 2E84 or similar, I think?

Is your AC on? The fan can get really loud if the AC is on and it's hot enough outside.

[BMWMusician]

Yes, but I had it on during 6:30-7:00 in the afternoon.

[Efthreeoh]

Need to scan the car for BMW codes 2E81 or 2E82.

[opjose]

I ran into the same thing.

My car produced the roaring noise at idle while loading up music to the CIC.

No codes were thrown.

A few days later the water pump went out while driving.

Take the roaring noise as a warning to get the pump and thermostat changed NOW!

[BMWMusician]

Same thing about this "no dipstick" oil sensor. I just happened to ask the dealer to do a inspection and they found out the oil sensor was faulty.


Kind of on the fence what I should do?

If I take to the dealer, lets say the waterpump is working, but not yet "failed". They will charge me a $110-150 diagnostic charge.

Then lets say 5 mi leaving the dealer, the car stalls, I have to get it towed, and there's a $200 deduct. for warranty, so I'll be out of $350.

Or do I keep driving the car until the temperature light comes on or stalls, then take to the dealer.

[patents]

The pumps are electric and generally either work or they don't - once it dies, it's dead. And you'll need a tow.

If you have fault codes for a failing pump and you've had symptoms, maybe they will consider it bad and change it. Well, it's really up to the warranty company, the dealer will change anything you ask for. The dealer just needs to confirm to the warranty company that it's faulty.

The dealer sees bad pumps all day long. I would first look for codes, and if there are codes, then call the dealer and tell them your fan is running like crazy and you have water pump fault codes, and ask if they can go ahead and change it under your warranty.

Oh, and change the thermostat (even out of pocket, about a hundred dollars) at the same time. They shouldn't charge any extra labor. If they try to, raise a stink, because it's actually no extra labor.

[BMWMusician]

Originally Posted by patents

The pumps are electric and generally either work or they don't - once it dies, it's dead. And you'll need a tow.

If you have fault codes for a failing pump and you've had symptoms, maybe they will consider it bad and change it. Well, it's really up to the warranty company, the dealer will change anything you ask for. The dealer just needs to confirm to the warranty company that it's faulty.

The dealer sees bad pumps all day long. I would first look for codes, and if there are codes, then call the dealer and tell them your fan is running like crazy and you have water pump fault codes, and ask if they can go ahead and change it under your warranty.

Oh, and change the thermostat (even out of pocket, about a hundred dollars) at the same time. They shouldn't charge any extra labor. If they try to, raise a stink, because it's actually no extra labor.

Thanks for the insight. So literally I have to drive this car until it breaks? There's no visual way I can see if it's faulty?

How about I post some inpa readings today? See what codes are showing and do I need to run any temperature diagnostic test to see why the car sounds like it's overheating?

I will check my coolant as well and post pics.

[patents]

When the pump fails, most people suggest that it's the electronics in the control board that cause the failure. The pump is driven by an electric motor controlled by the on board electronics.

You need to scan for codes. The dealer won't file it under warranty without codes, especially if the pump is working when you get there. It all comes down to how the dealer wants to do its diagnostic. If you see pump fault codes, call the dealer and ask them if they can go ahead and change the pump under warranty. Note that if you do have fault codes, keep in mind that it could fail and leave you stranded at any moment. When it fails, you will get a temperature warning and a few seconds later the car will shut the engine off.

It's also possible nothing is wrong. If you let the car idle for awhile it will kick the fan on full blast to cool it down. That is normal.

[BMWMusician]

Originally Posted by patents

It's also possible nothing is wrong. If you let the car idle for awhile it will kick the fan on full blast to cool it down. That is normal.

Maybe this happened... I let the car run idle for about 5-10 mins with the ac while get inpa running, and thats when I heard the roaring.

As for scan tools and faults, I have inpa with a one stop electronics k+dcan cable.

Is that good to use, or do you suggest another scan tool, or carly for bmw, etc?

[patents]

I use Carly. It's easy to use, and I don't have to fool with figuring out installing and using other software.

But it's just one way to get the job done. I just have no idea about inpa or how to use it. But if you have it working, use that.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by BMWMusician

My e93 has about 48k mi, and last week after letting it run idle, and checking inpa for rdc faults (getting tpms errors), the car starting making a very loud roaring or fan noise, as if it was going to explode.

Is there a way I can visually check, or do a diagnostic in inpa to see if the waterpump is going out or something else, or do I have to just drive it until the check engine or car fails?

I would like to bring it to the dealer, but A.) its about a hour away, and B.) It sucks cause if it works up to that point, its a $140 diagnostic fee. Or in other words from a BMW rep regarding the hpfp recall "if the part hasn't failed, they won't replace it".

You might be able to find shadow codes with the foxwell/ ECS - schwaben code reader.

Other then that, there is no real way to test for the health of the thermostat and water pump.

When it goes, it just goes. You'll know....

Car will go into limp mode and you'll get a red over heat warning on your dash.

At 48k, you still have 27k before you have to think about looking for a sale on parts.

Lots of DIYs on this one

[opjose]

Originally Posted by BMWMusician

Maybe this happened... I let the car run idle for about 5-10 mins with the ac while get inpa running, and thats when I heard the roaring.

Get your Waterpump and Thermostat changed.

My car at 46K would produce the roaring sound after 30-40 minutes at idle.
Even after reading that this was a waterpump issue I did not want to believe it.

Within a week or two of it first producing the roaring noise my pump went out. No codes were thrown UNTIL the pump finally went out.

As with others, my pump did not go out with a circuit board problem, but a crack in the internal components.

After replacement I can let the car idle for over an hour at high outside temps, and then the fan MAY kick in with a fairly low volume sound.

[BMWMusician]

That's the issue. The car actually has to show clear indication the water pump is going out. If not, the dealer will charge a $130 diagnostics fee, and lets say it goes out 40 mins from leaving the dealer after the diagnostic, then tow it back, and $200 ext. warranty charge + $100 for thermostat.

So literally idk if I have to drive it until it breaks, which sucks.

[opjose]

Given the potential expense of it going out and your car sustaining engine damage, along with being stranded someplace far from home... I'd just pay the fee.

[BMWMusician]

Well, I just drove it around 70 miles yesterday and now its running fine.

[opjose]

Been there, did that, pump failed anyway.

[vrmoreno3]

Been there before. Just got back into an older model 335. First week I went ahead and had the pump, thermo, and plugs changed. Should be good to go. Its a lifetime pump and warranty installer.

[BMWMusician]

Originally Posted by vrmoreno3

Been there before. Just got back into an older model 335. First week I went ahead and had the pump, thermo, and plugs changed. Should be good to go. Its a lifetime pump and warranty installer.

From BMW or indy dealer?

[vrmoreno3]

Indy dealer

[heyzoot]

my car overheated yellow then red in seconds. bot the pump & t-stat 08- 335i 102k miles.

Ran the Wp Purge program- you can hear the WP moans back and forth, but it never speeds up (engages) and no a/f flows into the expansion tank.