[TypeDre]

Hey guys, recently installed my KW V1 on my 2008 335xi. I have a few questions for those of you running these coilovers.

1. Do you experience a popping/clunking noise during low speed turns ? I specifically hear it when I'm backing out of my driveway in the morning. It only happens during slow speeds (under 10mph). What did you have to do to fix it?

2. What's the best method to adjust the rear coilovers? I've done a search and saw people were using a 3inch C-Clamp, however when I tried this I was't too successfully as there wasn't enough room between the top and bottom perch for the C-Clamp to hold on to.

Here's a picture of my car with the KW V1's installed. Rear is dropped to the lowest setting, and front could go about half inch lower:


Thanks in advance guys!

UPDATE:

So i finally figured it out, it looks like the main cause was the top bolt of the coilover was over torqued and caused the popping/clunking issue when turning the wheel. I made a video to show how it should look.

[tonyjcchen]

check your subframe bushings? can also be the coilers hitting the sway bar end links as well. i know mines were hitting mine and i had to readjust them. I'm on st coilovers. you might just need longer end links if you dropped the car a lot

[RickiBobby]

If it happens when turning the wheel all the way it could be the end links. If not its more than likely you didn't preload the springs correctly?

[TypeDre]

Originally Posted by RickiBobby

If it happens when turning the wheel all the way it could be the end links. If not its more than likely you didn't preload the springs correctly?

I wasn't aware that the front driver/passenger side coilovers needed to be preloaded? What's the correct way to preload the springs correctly? Thanks in advance!

I also looked underneath the car and found that the sway bar end link was indeed hitting the strut since I was at the lowest setting of the coilovers. I raised it about an inch and now it clears and the popping went away. My question is what options do I have to go lower and be able to clear the sway bar end link??

[TypeDre]

I also attached a photo for reference ☝🏼☝🏼

[RickiBobby]

I just double checked and you dont have to preload since you dont have the threaded shock body for height adjustment. To get lower I think you change the stoppers. But Id be careful with the xi system you might throw it out of whack.

[tonyjcchen]

Originally Posted by RickiBobby

I just double checked and you dont have to preload since you dont have the threaded shock body for height adjustment. To get lower I think you change the stoppers. But Id be careful with the xi system you might throw it out of whack.

im on st coilovers so i had the same problem since they are the same design. you could probably get some adjustable endlinks put in and maybe they would sit out far enough to not hit the collar. the uuc ones looks like they would maybe work but not many people like them since theres no boot on it. My uuc swaybars also came with these brackets so those helped me fix the issure you are having. on my e46xi, i was told if i lowered more than 1.5 inches it would wear my axles out quick. im not sure if that applies to the e90s though

[lhuynh336]

my car is going on lift monday and i will check this out myself cause i also hear a clunk at times

[AtlasM]

Adjustable sway bar end links will fix this. There are lots of different options for the rwd cars but our xi's are a bit weird because they have the same rod ends as the E9x non-M cars but the same length as the M3.

HPA makes some that are the right length for xi and have sealed rod ends.

http://www.hpashop.com/HP-Autosport-...ks-e82-e9x.htm

I have Ground Control ones and they have exposed rod ends that occasionally develop noise and need to be greased.

http://www.ground-control-store.com/.../II=856/CA=231

They don't list an xi-specific application but they make everything to order so you tell them they need the same rod ends as E9x non-M but 13.5" length like E9x M3 and you get xi-specific links.

Honestly I chose the Ground Control ones because I didn't realize that the HPA ones had the sealed rod ends. The HPA ones probably require less maintenance but really it's not a big deal to occasionally hit the heim joints with a little bit of spray lube. I use WD-40 Specialist water resistant silicone.

[TypeDre]

Thanks for the help guys!

Originally Posted by tonyjcchen

im on st coilovers so i had the same problem since they are the same design. you could probably get some adjustable endlinks put in and maybe they would sit out far enough to not hit the collar. the uuc ones looks like they would maybe work but not many people like them since theres no boot on it. My uuc swaybars also came with these brackets so those helped me fix the issure you are having. on my e46xi, i was told if i lowered more than 1.5 inches it would wear my axles out quick. im not sure if that applies to the e90s though

I just purchased the UUC adjustable end links (https://www.ecstuning.com/ES3025016/) Hoping these will work and clear the strut fully. I am still hearing some clunking noise even after raising the car 1in higher than what I posted a picture of and most of the clunking went away but not 100%. Any recommendation on what type of grease to use when the UUC arrives?

Thanks guys!

[TypeDre]

Originally Posted by AtlasM

Adjustable sway bar end links will fix this. There are lots of different options for the rwd cars but our xi's are a bit weird because they have the same rod ends as the E9x non-M cars but the same length as the M3.

HPA makes some that are the right length for xi and have sealed rod ends.

http://www.hpashop.com/HP-Autosport-...ks-e82-e9x.htm

I have Ground Control ones and they have exposed rod ends that occasionally develop noise and need to be greased.

http://www.ground-control-store.com/.../II=856/CA=231

They don't list an xi-specific application but they make everything to order so you tell them they need the same rod ends as E9x non-M but 13.5" length like E9x M3 and you get xi-specific links.

Honestly I chose the Ground Control ones because I didn't realize that the HPA ones had the sealed rod ends. The HPA ones probably require less maintenance but really it's not a big deal to occasionally hit the heim joints with a little bit of spray lube. I use WD-40 Specialist water resistant silicone.

Just ordered me some https://www.ecstuning.com/ES3025016/ and noticed these do not have the sealed rod ends, I also just ordered the WD-40 specialist water resistant silicone spray, hoping this will resolve my needs. Thanks!

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

You shouldn't go on the lowest setting possible on the KW V1 Coilovers. They have a specific spec range you should stay within per the manual.

I'd be interested to see if the aftermarket end links help with this but keep in mind the shocks will also be out or range. According to KW it will also void your warranty.

I'm battling the same debacle on the rear height adjustment. I've already taken the rears out twice to get the height I want, sadly I'm still not happy with where it sits but don't feel like taking everything out.

Let me know if you come up with an easy way to adjust without the top collar spinning.

[335xituned]

I never have problems with the rears i always spray the rears with w-2 clean all the dirt witch is why it gets stuck re-apply w-2 adjust the height and clean again never used a clamp or anything else

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by 335xituned

I never have problems with the rears i always spray the rears with w-2 clean all the dirt witch is why it gets stuck re-apply w-2 adjust the height and clean again never used a clamp or anything else

The issue is when you go to adjust the perch, it just spins the top collar with it. Nothing holds the upper perch in place to keep it from spinning.

I had this problem when they were brand new and I barely have any miles on them, they are clean as a whistle. I wish the vehicle come with a dowel pin that kept that upper perch in place.

[335xituned]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

The issue is when you go to adjust the perch, it just spins the top collar with it. Nothing holds the upper perch in place to keep it from spinning.

I had this problem when they were brand new and I barely have any miles on them, they are clean as a whistle. I wish the vehicle come with a dowel pin that kept that upper perch in place.

Like i said mines are far from new and w-2 clean and reaply and works perfect my perch never spins

[tonyjcchen]

i just have to use pliers or something to hold the top collar when adjusting the rears.

[TypeDre]

Hey guys, just installed the UUC sway bar end links and might have ran into a problem. The UUC end link seems to be hitting the strut body when turning the wheel so I put the stock ones back on. Anyone have any experience with these end links and are they supposed to look like this? I need some help on how these are supposed to be fitted cause it's hitting the strut. Thanks in advance!

[lhuynh336]

not sure what settings you are running on your kw's. But my strut does not rub my end link at all. Not even once(would've chipped the yellow or purple). I'm on 19's with no tire tucked.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by 335xituned

Like i said mines are far from new and w-2 clean and reaply and works perfect my perch never spins

Originally Posted by tonyjcchen

i just have to use pliers or something to hold the top collar when adjusting the rears.

Was trying to avoid that but it seems inevitable. Vice Grips, Duct Tape and WD-40 is always the fix.

[stashtrey]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Was trying to avoid that but it seems inevitable. Vice Grips, Duct Tape and WD-40 is always the fix.

I use a set of Sears oil filter channel lock plyers. They work perfect.

Definitely super lame when they spin!

[TypeDre]

Updated my first post. I finally figured out what was causing the noise. Over tightening the top bolt/nut caused the top hat to be stuck and unable to freely turn. Uploaded a video for you guys tooo lol

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by TypeDre

Updated my first post. I finally figured out what was causing the noise. Over tightening the top bolt/nut caused the top hat to be stuck and unable to freely turn. Uploaded a video for you guys tooo lol

The top bolt being over-tightened also can cause the strut top bearings to be crushed and or seize.

I believe the top nut should only be about 30-35lbs.

Lots of people not only over-torque them but use an impact gun, which are NO-NO's.

There is actually a tool to properly tighten them.



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