Dyno Results: Baseline and with Active Autowerke mid pipe

[VCP]

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Hey all. Had a fun day Saturday! Did my baseline dyno with 91 Octane Shell and then installed Active Autowerke mid pipe and lowered the GTS to "track" setting. I was expecting to see close to 490whp but was really happy with 502wtq!! The car was very consistent, thanks to water injection I did about a dozen pulls and I did 5 back to back at one run and HP fluctuated by only 14hp max. The sound with Mid pipe is damn near perfect! Sounds like a much larger displacement engine. Very very deep and what little rasp it had is gone. The overrun sound is more menacing also. Dyno with mid pipe happening tonight. As far as lowering goes, this is something I recommend for sure. Never mind the visual beauty. It unloads the springs and allows them to function as intended. The car rides much smoother and does not jar over small bumps. Dampening is improved and I did not touch settings. It feels as though I softened the high speed compression. For note, it does not sit as low as my M4 with HR SS springs so very livable A vid and a couple pics. Happy Monday all!

[mu2002cs]

490 HP at the rear wheels with 91 Octane is very impressive! Assuming a very conservative 15% loss, this give you approx 560 hp at the crank!

[HKMP7]

That's awesome congrats

[VCP]

Thanks guys. Let's just be clear that my Dyno Dynamics is corrected to show more or so what a Dynojet would read. I will post up the uncorrected(heartbreak) numbers shortly. So if you understand how the dynos function the 490 run was really more reflective of BHP. I know many have varying opinions on this but this is how I see it. That said this is spot on to BMW M's claimed 493bhp. The torque is what impressed me! It is certainly over the rated #. As a note my car got about .2km of break in. From The Welt showroom to outside parking lot. Then the engine was driven quite hard. I avoided hard acceleration on turns and did not spin tyres for first 1500km to seat the differential properly. In a straight line on Autobahn it was balls out though

Originally Posted by mu2002cs

490 HP at the rear wheels with 91 Octane is very impressive! Assuming a very conservative 15% loss, this give you approx 560 hp at the crank!

Originally Posted by ZX-10RR

That's awesome congrats

[schnell325]

Very impressive

[te37]

Where is the extra titanium stuff? Wanna sell it?

[Powerbeast]

Awesome man! I actually lowered mine as well to track setting and I love it.

[Captain Unknown GT4]

When you lower or put it up again, we must do cornerweight and alignment every time?

[robbys3m3]

Awesome!

[VCP]

No. The lock rings are secured for lowest setting and maintains corner balance. When you go back to higher setting just go past the high point and install c clip, then bring the spring collar up to c clip. Balanced at the high point as well. I do not feel I will go back to high setting. It puts a lot of pre load on springs and the handling is compromised. The car is very balanced in lower position. Also, the front drops a bit more than rear so you are not looking up into the sky. Viewing is proper in lower setting.

Originally Posted by Captain Unknown GT4

When you lower or put it up again, we must do cornerweight and alignment every time?

[VCP]

More plush isn't it? Dampening feels great! I like that the front drops a bit more than rear. It is a chore to see over the hood at times when in the higher position.

Originally Posted by Powerbeast

Awesome man! I actually lowered mine as well to track setting and I love it.

[Captain Unknown GT4]

Thats nice to hear. So if I am at small flat track I just lower it down, then up again for Nurburgring wich need street setting? All this whitout alignment etc. I like that, very easy then as I would think I am happy whit BMW factory setting( street For Nur and track setting For flat modern track)

Originally Posted by VCP

No. The lock rings are secured for lowest setting and maintains corner balance. When you go back to higher setting just go past the high point and install c clip, then bring the spring collar up to c clip. Balanced at the high point as well. I do not feel I will go back to high setting. It puts a lot of pre load on springs and the handling is compromised. The car is very balanced in lower position. Also, the front drops a bit more than rear so you are not looking up into the sky. Viewing is proper in lower setting.

[VCP]

You can make the call on Nur setting. I did the BTG with it in street setting. I would like to try it in track setting.

Originally Posted by Captain Unknown GT4

Thats nice to hear. So if I am at small flat track I just lower it down, then up again for Nurburgring wich need street setting? All this whitout alignment etc. I like that, very easy then as I would think I am happy whit BMW factory setting( street For Nur and track setting For flat modern track)

[Bashful]

emailed you VCP.... but are you in full track setting?

if not what did you lower it to?

[M4_GTS]

Originally Posted by Bashful

emailed you VCP.... but are you in full track setting?

if not what did you lower it to?

Take out the c-clips and lower it to the race setting. That's 15mm front and 7mm rear lower than the street setting. But leave you dampers rebound and compression alone in the street setting.

[BarryB]

Sorry for a potentially stupid question but how easy is to to change the ride height? Do it on the fly at the track or in your garage? Do you need to jack the car up at all? How long does it take?
Thanks in advance.

[VCP]

Barry, no stupid questions, only stupid answers You will need some mechanical know how to do rear. The inner lower control arm bolts have to come out and the shock bolts as well. Not difficult, but would not be easy laying on your back. With a hoist it should be 1 hour max.

Originally Posted by BarryB

Sorry for a potentially stupid question but how easy is to to change the ride height? Do it on the fly at the track or in your garage? Do you need to jack the car up at all? How long does it take?
Thanks in advance.

[BarryB]

Thx appreciate the not stupid answer!
Looks like I'm going to need to get it lowered at the dealer and leave it like that.
Don't know why this is taking so long for us here......the wait is painful now that they've started dribbling out....
How about extending the front lip?

[M4_GTS]

Originally Posted by BarryB

Thx appreciate the not stupid answer!
Looks like I'm going to need to get it lowered at the dealer and leave it like that.
Don't know why this is taking so long for us here......the wait is painful now that they've started dribbling out....
How about extending the front lip?

The front lip is easy to adjust. Just 5 T-30 bolts to loosen.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by VCP

I do not feel I will go back to high setting. It puts a lot of pre load on springs

Sorry to , but you spiked my curiosity.

Can you elaborate on the drawback of having more "pre-load" on the springs?

I figure, that regardless of the pre-load on the fully extended suspension, once the weight of the car rests on the springs, the springs will compress by the same total amount regardless of initial pre-load. The spring rate remains constant, hence a given load put on the spring should result in the same displacement. Am I missing something? Is it a concern with limited suspension extension travel?

[jonsnowm3]

Great numbers!

[VCP]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

Sorry to , but you spiked my curiosity.

Can you elaborate on the drawback of having more "pre-load" on the springs?

I figure, that regardless of the pre-load on the fully extended suspension, once the weight of the car rests on the springs, the springs will compress by the same total amount regardless of initial pre-load. The spring rate remains constant, hence a given load put on the spring should result in the same displacement. Am I missing something? Is it a concern with limited suspension extension travel?

Feels as though it's loaded to carry more than the actual rest weight of the car. Or maybe the valving works better at that point in stroke.