Tips on changing spark plugs and coil packs

STRMTRPR · 07-07-2016, 07:24 PM

Just ordered me some Bosch spark plugs and coils. Wanted to see if you guys have any tips on changing the spark plugs and coils on a 328.

5tony · 07-07-2016, 07:28 PM

Just follow the first part of this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dV6slQsuZwk

Game · 07-07-2016, 07:39 PM

Buy yourself a magnetic spark plug socket.

AndrewA · 07-07-2016, 08:35 PM

If you have a spark plug socket but its not magnetic, after unscrewing the spark plug and it is free, use the coil pack and push it onto the spark plug. It will come up with the coil pack.

wren57 · 07-07-2016, 10:31 PM

Make sure you have the proper thin-walled spark plug socket. Nothing sucks worse than having to put the car back together and do the job twice. Just take your time and don't force anything. The most difficult part is probably remove the coils. After you flip the switch up and remove the electrical connector, put a large flathead screwdriver through the switch hole and pull straight up. And when you go to re-seat the coils, make sure they're pushed all the way down.

Good luck!

Volasko · 07-08-2016, 08:06 AM

MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE GAP SPARK PLUG GAP! I can't remember the proper gap (I'm sure you can google this) but they should be checked with a simple gap tool you can get anywhere.

John 070 · 07-08-2016, 08:31 AM

When undoing the cowl, be careful with the wiring loom and the air quality sensors. On the pass side I disconnected it rather than try to get it off the lower cabin filter housing. The driver side unclips. I forgot this when doing the ABS pump and the sensor snapped out on the pass side, functions but maybe 1/2 mm of plastic snapped (good ol' duct tape got it back in place).

Also, I prefer to use a locking 3/8" extension so you don't lose the thin walled socket. Because of the #5 cyl, it can't be too long, I dunno, 4 or 6". Mine was like 10" and too long.

This doesn't seem to be something we can agree upon, but I follow the factory recommendations.

NEVER USE ANTI SEIZE

TORQUE TO 17 FT LBS.

Your torque wrench needs to have an upper range of no more than 75 ft. lbs., since they are only accurate down to 20% of the upper range.

People are gonna crawl out of the woodwork who say, "I've been building race cars since 1988 and I always use anti seize and I never use a torque wrench. Torque wrenches are for people who don't know what they're doing, unlike me. I eyeball it and it has always been fine."

That's just not what I would do. One guy went so far as to say there's a conspiracy between Bosch and BMW in telling you to never use anti seize and use a torque wrench, as if they want repair work when you break the plugs, that is so far fetched....

Good luck, and don't forget to reset your CBS....

Efthreeoh · 07-08-2016, 08:58 AM

I've been building race car engines since I was a wee lad of ....

Kidding (but I've done a few plug changes in my time, and 3 on the N52). Here's my advice for the N52 engine, which is what you have in your car. You need a regular 5/8 sparkplug socket, vs. a "thin-wall" socket, which is only necessary for the N54/55 engine. The sparkplug socket should be either magnetic or have a rubber bushing in it that grabs the plug. I suggest you use electrical tape and tape the socket to the extension bar because sometimes the socket won't release from the plug before it releases from the extension bar. There is really no need to use anti-seize, but if you do, just a small amount and use copper anti-seize for high-temperature applications.

Upon install, hand-install (hand thread-in) the plugs (i.e. don't use a socket wrench to thread the plug into the head, just use the socket attached to the extension bar). Once the plug stops threading then use a torque wrench to seat the plug, which really only is crushing the sealing washer on the plug to the head. If there is any resistance to hand threading the plug, immediately stop and unscrew the plug and start over. Any resistance indicates the plug is cross-threading into the hole, this is why you don't use a wrench, so you can feel if the plug is cross-threading; it should smoothly thread into the cylinderhead. I highly recommend using a 3/8-drive bar-type torque wrench for setting the plug torque because bar-type torque wrenches are more accurate at low torque values than a click-type torque wrench.

The coils can be a bit intimidating the first time you try to remove them. They have a funky cap that snaps open/closed and pushes/pulls the connector in/out of the connector socket of the coil. Sometimes you need to pull the connector out while lifting up the cap. The cap has a finger-ring opening in it to assist in pulling the coil up off the sparkplug. You can use a screw driver in the finger-ring to lever up the coil if it is stuck to the plug.

John 070 · 07-08-2016, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

hand-install (hand thread-in) the plugs (i.e. don't use a socket wrench to thread the plug into the head, just use the socket attached to the extension bar). Once the plug stops threading then use a torque wrench to seat the plug, which really only is crushing the sealing washer on the plug to the head. If there is any resistance to hand threading the plug, immediately stop and unscrew the plug and start over. Any resistance indicates the plug is cross-threading into the hole, this is why you don't use a wrench, so you can feel if the plug is cross-threading; it should smoothly thread into the cylinderhead.

The above is really good advice.....

Starting by hand was really good advice also with the ABS pump and the 6 brake lines, because if the brake lines do not thread by hand, something is wrong...

That's one where I did not use a torque wrench, and did it by feel with the line wrench...

Willsbma · 07-08-2016, 10:02 AM

Only issue I ran into is the electrical connector for the coils. They clicked in, but weren't fully seated so make sure you double check or she'll misfire.

Wolf 335 · 07-08-2016, 10:10 AM

Have penetrating oil handy.

My cylinder 6 plug was seized. Had to make a trip to the store to get penetrating oil.
Spray some around the plug and let sit for about 15 mins. Plug will come out no problem.

Have a shop vac handy. Once you pull the plugs, you'll notice black build up chucks that are now loose and sitting on the threads of the head. With a shop vac and a straw attachment, vacuum all that junk and then place new plug in.

Cheers

Efthreeoh · 07-08-2016, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John 070

The above is really good advice.....

Starting by hand was really good advice also with the ABS pump and the 6 brake lines, because if the brake lines do not thread by hand, something is wrong...

That's one where I did not use a torque wrench, and did it by feel with the line wrench...

Brake fittings are really problematic because they are usually wet with fluid...

max_330i · 07-08-2016, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willsbma

Only issue I ran into is the electrical connector for the coils. They clicked in, but weren't fully seated so make sure you double check or she'll misfire.

Agreed. Getting the connector on the coil to "click" is difficult and you might feel like you'll break it. Go slow and don't force anything.

Volasko · 07-08-2016, 11:36 AM

I applied some di-electric grease on the connector of the coils to the plugs to help ensure there was a good electrical contact between the two parts.

John 070 · 07-08-2016, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by max_330i

Agreed. Getting the connector on the coil to "click" is difficult and you might feel like you'll break it. Go slow and don't force anything.

I actually bought a spare coil pack just in case, but did not run into any issues....because I wanted to know what I was dealing with ahead of time, first and only change for me thus far...

ssdara · 07-08-2016, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John 070

When undoing the cowl, be careful with the wiring loom and the air quality sensors. On the pass side I disconnected it rather than try to get it off the lower cabin filter housing. The driver side unclips. I forgot this when doing the ABS pump and the sensor snapped out on the pass side, functions but maybe 1/2 mm of plastic snapped (good ol' duct tape got it back in place).

Also, I prefer to use a locking 3/8" extension so you don't lose the thin walled socket. Because of the #5 cyl, it can't be too long, I dunno, 4 or 6". Mine was like 10" and too long.

This doesn't seem to be something we can agree upon, but I follow the factory recommendations.

NEVER USE ANTI SEIZE

TORQUE TO 17 FT LBS.

Your torque wrench needs to have an upper range of no more than 75 ft. lbs., since they are only accurate down to 20% of the upper range.

People are gonna crawl out of the woodwork who say, "I've been building race cars since 1988 and I always use anti seize and I never use a torque wrench. Torque wrenches are for people who don't know what they're doing, unlike me. I eyeball it and it has always been fine."

That's just not what I would do. One guy went so far as to say there's a conspiracy between Bosch and BMW in telling you to never use anti seize and use a torque wrench, as if they want repair work when you break the plugs, that is so far fetched....

Good luck, and don't forget to reset your CBS....

Some of the click wrenches don't actually click at low ft/lbs but you will feel it if you go slow. My experience with harbor freight wrench anyways. Funny no one mentioned the PITA sleeve in there, can't remember if that was for valve cover or spark plugs but you'll need two picks or sharp needle noise pliers eventually

F22_Raptor · 07-08-2016, 09:35 PM

Make sure to have a short rachet extension for cylinder #5.
Also there are 4 screws that need to be removed to take the engine cover off. I didn't replace the back two just to make my life easier.

Rsoxs19 · 07-08-2016, 09:59 PM

Well your first mistake was getting a 328i, should have gotten a 335i or m3. 328i's are worthless scrap metal.

ArcticRik · 07-08-2016, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsoxs19

Well your first mistake was getting a 328i, should have gotten a 335i or m3. 328i's are worthless scrap metal.

wow... 4 posts in and already has the tough guy syndrome....

SlimE92 · 07-08-2016, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsoxs19

Well your first mistake was getting a 328i, should have gotten a 335i or m3. 328i's are worthless scrap metal.

Lol 328s are solid. If I didn't have my 35 I would get a 28 over any other cars in its class Benz,Nissan, Infiniti, etc

Wolf 335 · 07-09-2016, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsoxs19

Well your first mistake was getting a 328i, should have gotten a 335i or m3. 328i's are worthless scrap metal.

Your age?
Your bmw ownership history in years?
Cars owned?

First build some credibility before you start talking shit, especially when you just joined the forum.

Edit: just looked you up, you're 16. Now it all makes sense. Saw your thread and again it all makes sense.

STRMTRPR · 07-09-2016, 05:25 PM

Thank you guys so much for all the info, it helped a lot! I got the job done , had some problems with putting back some stuff on but none the less was a easy job! This is why i love e90post , thanks guys!!!

07-07-2016, 07:24 PM	#1
STRMTRPR Second Lieutenant 74 Rep 295 Posts Drives: 13 E92 335i Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Death Star iTrader: (0)	Tips on changing spark plugs and coil packs Just ordered me some Bosch spark plugs and coils. Wanted to see if you guys have any tips on changing the spark plugs and coils on a 328.
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07-07-2016, 07:28 PM	#2
5tony Lieutenant 147 Rep 500 Posts Drives: '21 M5/'15 X5 35i/'88 M3 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Atlanta iTrader: (1)	Just follow the first part of this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dV6slQsuZwk __________________
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07-07-2016, 07:39 PM	#3
Game ------ 7409 Rep 10,215 Posts Drives: G87 M2 (sold) Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Chicago'ish iTrader: (25)	Buy yourself a magnetic spark plug socket. __________________
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07-07-2016, 08:35 PM	#4
AndrewA Second Lieutenant 48 Rep 244 Posts Drives: E90 M3 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Irvine, CA iTrader: (7) Garage List 2007 BMW 335i [0.00]	If you have a spark plug socket but its not magnetic, after unscrewing the spark plug and it is free, use the coil pack and push it onto the spark plug. It will come up with the coil pack.
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07-08-2016, 08:06 AM	#6
Volasko Colonel 705 Rep 2,605 Posts Drives: 06 330i E90, 18 530xe G30 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Toronto iTrader: (2) Garage List 2018 BMW 530e M Sport [9.00] 2006 BMW E90 330i [8.28]	MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE GAP SPARK PLUG GAP! I can't remember the proper gap (I'm sure you can google this) but they should be checked with a simple gap tool you can get anywhere.
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07-07-2016, 10:31 PM	#5
wren57 Roll Tide 591 Rep 2,345 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St Louis iTrader: (10)	Make sure you have the proper thin-walled spark plug socket. Nothing sucks worse than having to put the car back together and do the job twice. Just take your time and don't force anything. The most difficult part is probably remove the coils. After you flip the switch up and remove the electrical connector, put a large flathead screwdriver through the switch hole and pull straight up. And when you go to re-seat the coils, make sure they're pushed all the way down. Good luck!
	Appreciate 1 Quote

07-08-2016, 08:31 AM	#7
John 070 Lieutenant General 1705 Rep 14,829 Posts Drives: 335i cpe Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: ZSP/ZPP/ZCW iTrader: (0)	When undoing the cowl, be careful with the wiring loom and the air quality sensors. On the pass side I disconnected it rather than try to get it off the lower cabin filter housing. The driver side unclips. I forgot this when doing the ABS pump and the sensor snapped out on the pass side, functions but maybe 1/2 mm of plastic snapped (good ol' duct tape got it back in place). Also, I prefer to use a locking 3/8" extension so you don't lose the thin walled socket. Because of the #5 cyl, it can't be too long, I dunno, 4 or 6". Mine was like 10" and too long. This doesn't seem to be something we can agree upon, but I follow the factory recommendations. NEVER USE ANTI SEIZE TORQUE TO 17 FT LBS. Your torque wrench needs to have an upper range of no more than 75 ft. lbs., since they are only accurate down to 20% of the upper range. People are gonna crawl out of the woodwork who say, "I've been building race cars since 1988 and I always use anti seize and I never use a torque wrench. Torque wrenches are for people who don't know what they're doing, unlike me. I eyeball it and it has always been fine." That's just not what I would do. One guy went so far as to say there's a conspiracy between Bosch and BMW in telling you to never use anti seize and use a torque wrench, as if they want repair work when you break the plugs, that is so far fetched.... Good luck, and don't forget to reset your CBS....
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07-08-2016, 08:58 AM	#8
Efthreeoh General 17315 Rep 18,737 Posts Drives: The E90 + Z4 Coupe & Z3 R'ster Join Date: May 2012 Location: Virginia iTrader: (0)	I've been building race car engines since I was a wee lad of .... Kidding (but I've done a few plug changes in my time, and 3 on the N52). Here's my advice for the N52 engine, which is what you have in your car. You need a regular 5/8 sparkplug socket, vs. a "thin-wall" socket, which is only necessary for the N54/55 engine. The sparkplug socket should be either magnetic or have a rubber bushing in it that grabs the plug. I suggest you use electrical tape and tape the socket to the extension bar because sometimes the socket won't release from the plug before it releases from the extension bar. There is really no need to use anti-seize, but if you do, just a small amount and use copper anti-seize for high-temperature applications. Upon install, hand-install (hand thread-in) the plugs (i.e. don't use a socket wrench to thread the plug into the head, just use the socket attached to the extension bar). Once the plug stops threading then use a torque wrench to seat the plug, which really only is crushing the sealing washer on the plug to the head. If there is any resistance to hand threading the plug, immediately stop and unscrew the plug and start over. Any resistance indicates the plug is cross-threading into the hole, this is why you don't use a wrench, so you can feel if the plug is cross-threading; it should smoothly thread into the cylinderhead. I highly recommend using a 3/8-drive bar-type torque wrench for setting the plug torque because bar-type torque wrenches are more accurate at low torque values than a click-type torque wrench. The coils can be a bit intimidating the first time you try to remove them. They have a funky cap that snaps open/closed and pushes/pulls the connector in/out of the connector socket of the coil. Sometimes you need to pull the connector out while lifting up the cap. The cap has a finger-ring opening in it to assist in pulling the coil up off the sparkplug. You can use a screw driver in the finger-ring to lever up the coil if it is stuck to the plug. __________________ A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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07-08-2016, 10:02 AM	#10
Willsbma First Lieutenant 77 Rep 330 Posts Drives: 07 328xi Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: 11703 iTrader: (0)	Only issue I ran into is the electrical connector for the coils. They clicked in, but weren't fully seated so make sure you double check or she'll misfire.
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07-08-2016, 10:10 AM	#11
Wolf 335 Brigadier General 2341 Rep 3,539 Posts Drives: 2007 E92 335i Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: GTA - Greater Toronto Area iTrader: (0)	Have penetrating oil handy. My cylinder 6 plug was seized. Had to make a trip to the store to get penetrating oil. Spray some around the plug and let sit for about 15 mins. Plug will come out no problem. Have a shop vac handy. Once you pull the plugs, you'll notice black build up chucks that are now loose and sitting on the threads of the head. With a shop vac and a straw attachment, vacuum all that junk and then place new plug in. Cheers
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07-08-2016, 11:36 AM	#14
Volasko Colonel 705 Rep 2,605 Posts Drives: 06 330i E90, 18 530xe G30 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Toronto iTrader: (2) Garage List 2018 BMW 530e M Sport [9.00] 2006 BMW E90 330i [8.28]	I applied some di-electric grease on the connector of the coils to the plugs to help ensure there was a good electrical contact between the two parts.
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07-08-2016, 09:35 PM	#17
F22_Raptor Lieutenant 118 Rep 424 Posts Drives: 2008 328i Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Touring CA iTrader: (0)	Make sure to have a short rachet extension for cylinder #5. Also there are 4 screws that need to be removed to take the engine cover off. I didn't replace the back two just to make my life easier.
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07-08-2016, 09:59 PM	#18
Rsoxs19 First Lieutenant 65 Rep 342 Posts Drives: 2007 335i E92 Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Albany, New York iTrader: (1) Garage List 2007 BMW 335i [10.00] 2011 BMW X5 35d [0.00]	Well your first mistake was getting a 328i, should have gotten a 335i or m3. 328i's are worthless scrap metal.
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07-09-2016, 05:25 PM	#22
STRMTRPR Second Lieutenant 74 Rep 295 Posts Drives: 13 E92 335i Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Death Star iTrader: (0)	Thank you guys so much for all the info, it helped a lot! I got the job done , had some problems with putting back some stuff on but none the less was a easy job! This is why i love e90post , thanks guys!!!
	Appreciate 0 Quote