[just_dirty]

Update: Car Spun 4 Rod Bearings, pics on page 3.


I was at the track this past weekend and during a rather high speed bend the car completely shut off at corner entry. As a result the back end stepped out on me and I had to bail into the grass. Vid here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JH9ffdUt4p4

After I had the wrecker tow me back to the paddock I pulled the following codes:

2E8D
2A82
3100

The car would not fire up, no clicking or any signs that it was attempting to turn over. I did find significant moisture in the battery housing area(water bottle got lodged back there and cracked). Disconnected the battery and cleaned everything up and re-connect the battery. Now it displays a new set of codes which are as follows:

2ACC
2D1D

Now when I try and start it there's a click and it everything cuts out. I've tried jumping the car with another vehicle but still no dice. Any input is appreciated.

[wren57]

2E8D:
2E8D Intelligent battery sensor, signal transmission
Short circuit or signal interruption

2A82 and 3100 are VANOS related codes, have seen those go away with an oil change. You were probably stressing the oil pump, and if not using the right viscosity for a track day in the desert the VANOS may have gotten starved.

2ACC:
2ACC DME digital motor electronics main relay, switch delay

2D1D Accelerator pedal module, pedal sensor 1, voltage supply

Throw a couple of packs of desiccant in the battery area to absorb any moisture and put it on a charger.

[just_dirty]

Odd, I was running Rotella 5w40 like I always do. Actually had the oil changed the day before the event.

Currently, when I try and turn the vehicle over it will click and turn off as if there is a battery cable loose but the cables are secured in the rear. This also happens when I tried to jump start it using another vehicle.

[Velocity26]

When you experience a major electrical malfunction that causes wild voltage fluctuations, I would not take any minor codes seriously unless they return after the main problem is resolved. A sensor will not return the correct voltage when the input voltage is wrong. I have seen cars with alternator problems (or dead batteries) flag strange codes that do not return when the alternator is replaced.

[just_dirty]

The battery is shot so ill start by replacing that.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by just_dirty

The battery is shot so ill start by replacing that.

Can you clear all codes before installing the battery and before trying the restart?? Good luck!

[just_dirty]

i cleared all the codes after reading them initially. Removed the battery and put it on a charger for a while. Cleaned the battery tray and removed the moisture. Plugged everything back in and the 2ACC and 2D1D codes popped up. But instead of the car doing nothing when i hit the Start/Stop buttons it makes a click noise and cuts out as if one of the battery cables is loose.

[JDuke335i]

Originally Posted by just_dirty

i cleared all the codes after reading them initially. Removed the battery and put it on a charger for a while. Cleaned the battery tray and removed the moisture. Plugged everything back in and the 2ACC and 2D1D codes popped up. But instead of the car doing nothing when i hit the Start/Stop buttons it makes a click noise and cuts out as if one of the battery cables is loose.

Sounds like the main relay (2acc)may need to be replaced . 1st I would check the gas pedal and make sure nothing became disconnected for the 2d1d code

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Yea I think a relay or fuse may have tripped too. No idea which one though but I would check those related to DME, starting, ETC.

[muncie21]

You may want to review this thread about a bad main power connection to the fuse box.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=566291

[stanlalee]

Mine acted similar when my alternator went out (over the course of two days). Wasn't a cheap fix at the dealer either. Dealer told me when it goes often wipes out there battery too but mine survived.

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

Double check your BST. It'll give you power to everything except to crank up the car. Designed for accidents to prevent the car from igniting.

[feuer]

2A82 and 3100 often show when engine stalls, just like yours did, especially in MT n54.

[nukezero]

Damn. Engine shutting off like that seems pretty dangerous. Glad that didn't happen on the freeway at 80MPH.

[davidwarren]

Am I the only person that noticed he's blasting Highway to the Danger Zone on the track?

[Fundguy1]

Originally Posted by davidwarren

Am I the only person that noticed he's blasting Highway to the Danger Zone on the track?

Yes. Cool video btw. Till it died at least.

[TheBreeze]

Originally Posted by just_dirty

I was at the track this past weekend and during a rather high speed bend the car completely shut off at corner entry. As a result the back end stepped out on me and I had to bail into the grass. Vid here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JH9ffdUt4p4

After I had the wrecker tow me back to the paddock I pulled the following codes:

2E8D
2A82
3100

The car would not fire up, no clicking or any signs that it was attempting to turn over. I did find significant moisture in the battery housing area(water bottle got lodged back there and cracked). Disconnected the battery and cleaned everything up and re-connect the battery. Now it displays a new set of codes which are as follows:

2ACC
2D1D

Now when I try and start it there's a click and it everything cuts out. I've tried jumping the car with another vehicle but still no dice. Any input is appreciated.

I've had something similar happen on my 135 - dash was lighting up like christmas tree, all sorts of weird behavior, car barely running etc. In the right rear corner of the trunk floor, there is a compartment that houses the TPMS system. In my case, I had a bottle of coolant that leaked into the area and soaked the compartment. I took it all apart and found the TPMS circuit board was dripping in coolant. I thoroughly dried up the area with a towel, then took the TPMS box apart and dried everything with a hairdryer. I made sure all the connectors were dry, then reinstalled everything and cleared all the codes. Everything went back to normal after that. Moisture in the trunk area is bad news. There is electronics back there, and if anything at all gets wet, it throws the whole system into chaos. Good luck!

[just_dirty]

haven't had time to really dig into the car but I wanted to ask you guys what you think caused the car to die all of a sudden? I would hate to put the new fuses and relays into the car just for it to die at the track again.

Sitting in a hot car that's low to the ground in tall dead brush is not something I want to relive lol. Not to mention those two sessions I got were the most expensive two sessions of my life lol.

[unrealii]

Originally Posted by just_dirty

haven't had time to really dig into the car but I wanted to ask you guys what you think caused the car to die all of a sudden? I would hate to put the new fuses and relays into the car just for it to die at the track again.

Sitting in a hot car that's low to the ground in tall dead brush is not something I want to relive lol. Not to mention those two sessions I got were the most expensive two sessions of my life lol.

Well, without doing any diagnostics, its hard to tell what caused the car to stop. If it ends up being a fuse or relay, the next step is to determine what caused that fuse/relay to fail which would lead you closer to the root cause.

What added electronics do you have connected? It could be as simple as an overloaded circuit while on the track

[PichaDis11]

Originally Posted by muncie21

You may want to review this thread about a bad main power connection to the fuse box.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=566291

I would suggest this as well.. Same symptom I normally received before getting that recall work done.. The slightest right turn I could expect a shut off, with the first sign that the engine had cut is the tough ass steering..

[just_dirty]

Originally Posted by PichaDis11

I would suggest this as well.. Same symptom I normally received before getting that recall work done.. The slightest right turn I could expect a shut off, with the first sign that the engine had cut is the tough ass steering..

I really don't think thats the issue i'm having. I have full power to the electronics but the starter wont turn the engine over. It just makes a click and sort of 'thud' like its trying to turn the motor over.

I even tried a Spare DME CAS and keys to see if I had fried the DME somehow but the result was the same.

I did scan the car with INPA and can post those codes as well.

[just_dirty]

Update:

Per the recommendation of a couple of my friends I tried to Spin the motor manually and it will not budge. Looks like the problem appears to be mechanical and not electrical (Thank god... i think?). I'll keep everyone updated on what failed.