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      04-12-2016, 03:54 PM   #1
Needbmwpartzz
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Xi front ball joint?

Does anyone have the correct way or sure method to extract ball joint from knuckle on front of e90 x-drive.....going to tackle this job soon but still unsure how to proceed even after reading here.
TIA
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      04-12-2016, 07:37 PM   #2
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Bump.....
Anyone?
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      04-13-2016, 08:19 AM   #3
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http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm

That procedure shows how to remove the ball joint. Quite easy.
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      04-13-2016, 08:25 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vapore0n
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm

That procedure shows how to remove the ball joint. Quite easy.
Thanks for the link but that is only for non-xdrive models.
The ball joint is pressed/bolted to knuckle...and a bigger pain to remove.
I'm just wondering if there's a specific puller that extract it without brute force.
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      04-13-2016, 08:48 AM   #5
pierop
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You could use the universal harbor freight wheel hub bearing press to remove and press, additionally you could freeze the ball joint, apply some lubricant and heat up the knuckle right before pressing.

http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-fro...ers-66829.html

Last edited by pierop; 04-13-2016 at 08:51 AM.. Reason: link
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      04-13-2016, 10:54 AM   #6
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Assuming you're talking about the wishbone and not the thrust arm... I just did this last week on my xi. Left side went great. Right side PITA. I used a press tool similar to the Harbor Freight one, but if I had to do it again I'd just order the whole control arm. I purchased an 1-1/2" black iron pipe nipple from HD since there isn't a collar in the kit that fits snugly onto the ball joint. The right side I tried heat, hammer, you name it and it wouldn't come out. Finally just let it soak with penetrating fluid for a few hours, gave it one last shot and it popped out. Be careful that the new ball joint goes in straight when you are pressing it in. Lot's of soap helps. The suspension needs to be loaded when you tighten the nut/bolt for the ball joint. You'll need an alignment after.

Side note: After removal and inspection I actually think my "old" one was just fine.
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      04-13-2016, 11:44 AM   #7
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You guys are talking different parts than op and using wrong terminology.
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      04-13-2016, 11:52 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhaseP
You guys are talking different parts than op and using wrong terminology.
Yup....I'm talking about ball joint that TS attaches to.
Guess I'm just going to wing it and hope it comes off easy!
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      04-13-2016, 01:18 PM   #9
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My bad. Sorry about that!!
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      04-13-2016, 02:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All4bigAl
My bad. Sorry about that!!
No worries....so many suspension part names it's confusing unless your looking at diagrams with exploded view and numbered legends.
Here's an appreciate for your effort
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      04-15-2016, 07:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Needbmwpartzz View Post
Does anyone have the correct way or sure method to extract ball joint from knuckle on front of e90 x-drive.....going to tackle this job soon but still unsure how to proceed even after reading here.
TIA
Replaced these on my wife's 2007 328xi. I used a MAPP gas torch + air hammer/chisel. Need to wrap heat susceptible areas with wet cloths & aluminum foil. (I used flexible heat shield material available at local big box home improvement stores.

mike
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      04-15-2016, 10:39 PM   #12
Needbmwpartzz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranelec
Quote:
Originally Posted by Needbmwpartzz View Post
Does anyone have the correct way or sure method to extract ball joint from knuckle on front of e90 x-drive.....going to tackle this job soon but still unsure how to proceed even after reading here.
TIA
Replaced these on my wife's 2007 328xi. I used a MAPP gas torch + air hammer/chisel. Need to wrap heat susceptible areas with wet cloths & aluminum foil. (I used flexible heat shield material available at local big box home improvement stores.

mike
That's what I figured needed to be done.
How long it take with the air chisel,come out easily or did they need to be destroyed?
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      04-16-2016, 07:16 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Needbmwpartzz View Post
That's what I figured needed to be done.
How long it take with the air chisel,come out easily or did they need to be destroyed?
And be damn careful of the torx bolts. Went to do mine and two of those idiot things stripped even after applying heat.

Took it to a local indy shop at that point. They had them out in ~2 hours. I gave the mechanic an extra $50 for saving my ass.
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      04-16-2016, 06:29 PM   #14
Needbmwpartzz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greyfox
Quote:
Originally Posted by Needbmwpartzz View Post
That's what I figured needed to be done.
How long it take with the air chisel,come out easily or did they need to be destroyed?
And be damn careful of the torx bolts. Went to do mine and two of those idiot things stripped even after applying heat.

Took it to a local indy shop at that point. They had them out in ~2 hours. I gave the mechanic an extra $50 for saving my ass.
Yup....tried and failed to get the balls out.....in not equipped with the proper air tools to get them out....I tried but no cigar.....can't swing hammer with the required force in wheel well while car is on jacks ti budge them....mine turned out to still be in good shape anyways.....however the tension strut replacement made my car feel brand need again.....best repair I've done to restore that BMW handling....so awesome again
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      04-17-2016, 01:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Needbmwpartzz View Post
That's what I figured needed to be done.
How long it take with the air chisel,come out easily or did they need to be destroyed?
Without air chisel & heat: 6 hours and never came out (15 minutes once heat was applied)

Other Ball Joint: 45 minutes with air chisel & heat.

Please read the post about the torx bolts. I bought a Lisle impact torx set. By the second ball joint, I had destroyed the bit. DON"T TRUST HARBOR FREIGHT QUALITY TORX BITS.

Over the course of several days, apply heat, cool, and quality penetrant like Silikroil. You will destroy the ball joint but even OEM are relatively cheap.

Last piece of advice, make sure you LOAD UP
your radius & thrust arms prior to final assembly. If you don't load them up, you will destroy them before you get to a stealership to align the car.

mike
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