[n54SQUAD]

I've gotten condensation in my headlight and now my passenger xenon is out and the high beam doesn't fire up either. Anybody know what's broken? I've replaced the bulb and no good, and checked the fuses as well. I was thinking headlight module, but I'm trying to find out of there is any other possibilities as well.

[NOITALL]

Ballast.

[MachWon]

Same here. I originally thought it was a bulb until it started working again, but it stopped working AGAIN night before last so I believe it is the ballast as others have said.

[n54SQUAD]

Ballast on ECS is almost 500 :/ ugh

[NOITALL]

60 on eBay.

[n54SQUAD]

Originally Posted by NOITALL

60 on eBay.

How's the quality ? Can anybody vouch for a eBay sold ballast ?

[NOITALL]

Originally Posted by n54SQUAD

How's the quality ? Can anybody vouch for a eBay sold ballast ?

eBay does not manufacture anything.

Cheers

[twinboost_MD]

just get a valeo replacement ballast mine works fine. think i got it off amazon

[n54SQUAD]

So I've gotten this light and was wondering if I should replace the adaptive module ? Some people have said ballast and I just want to make sure I'm replacing the right thing. I've tried the bulb and that was fine now it's just the ballast or the adaptive module ! Thanks everyone

[spikey92]

Originally Posted by n54SQUAD

So I've gotten this light and was wondering if I should replace the adaptive module ? Some people have said ballast and I just want to make sure I'm replacing the right thing. I've tried the bulb and that was fine now it's just the ballast or the adaptive module ! Thanks everyone

I see we have similar issues. Without taking the whole front end apart, you could order the ballast on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E90-E92-...pWSrK6&vxp=mtr

It's not too hard to replace from the wheel well but you may still want to take your headlight out to air it and re-seal it (silicone bead on top of the old one, also clean and re-install the gasket around the HID cover). You can't just take one of the headlights out without removing the bumper so if you are there, remove the other one and seal it, you don't want to do this again in a year.

If you think about it, before ordering the ballast you could take the headlights out anyway and try to debug it by swapping ballasts, bulbs and Adaptive Headlight Modules -you can't get to these unless you take the headlight out. My issue was a fried ballast but it seems mine affected the Footwell Module as well since. Either will need a re-set from the software tool or a replacement and re-coding - 120 on ebay....

Good luck, let me know if you need photos or anything, I still have the car dismantled ...

[n54SQUAD]

I've removed the headlight in the past and was able to find the ballast but where is the adaptive module located ? Lol and what is the foot well module ?

[spikey92]

Originally Posted by n54SQUAD

I've removed the headlight in the past and was able to find the ballast but where is the adaptive module located ? Lol and what is the foot well module ?

The adaptive module is on the bottom of the headlight, towards the center of the car - it's about 3.5" by 3", aprox.

#3 on this diagram but sits on the bottom of the headlight somewhere under 13/14

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=63_0961

[fun2drive]

Footwell Module (FRM) is located on the driver's side foot panel by the hood release. You need to remove that panel to gain access to the 3 (I think) connectors that are attached. The FRM is responsible for controlling your lights and windows. It is a fail safe system that will shut off power to a module like the lighting before it burns out.
Once a system shorts it tends to cause the FRM to shut power down to that area. Depending on the FRM since there are 3 of them AFRM, FRM2 and FRM3 you can reset the FRM or otherwise you have to replace the FRM. Anyway you look at it coding is required. As long as you are getting power to the ballast you are good the FRM is not impacted.

[n54SQUAD]

Originally Posted by fun2drive

Footwell Module (FRM) is located on the driver's side foot panel by the hood release. You need to remove that panel to gain access to the 3 (I think) connectors that are attached. The FRM is responsible for controlling your lights and windows. It is a fail safe system that will shut off power to a module like the lighting before it burns out.
Once a system shorts it tends to cause the FRM to shut power down to that area. Depending on the FRM since there are 3 of them AFRM, FRM2 and FRM3 you can reset the FRM or otherwise you have to replace the FRM. Anyway you look at it coding is required. As long as you are getting power to the ballast you are good the FRM is not impacted.

Is there a way to test the FRM ? Before I go about testing the ballast ? If there is a possible way to reset this or do I really need the codec or are you talking about like an OBDII