[photos_by_ronnie]

I recently installed a JB4 on my stock 2009 335i xDrive with 86,000 miles. I also installed new Bosch spark plugs before installing the JB4. The install went smoothly, and the car started up fine afterwards. I drove it 1 mile before the Engine Malfunction light came on. I turned the car off, turned it back on, and it was gone.

I drove the car about a week or two with no issues. If I would go 50% Throttle while cruising (basically pushing in the speed but not enough to downshift), the engine light would come on. If I went WOT, no engine light and it ran well. This happened with Map 0, Map 1, and Map 5.

Yesterday I turned the car on and immediately the Engine Malfunction (half orange engine) light came on. The car started fine, idled smoothly as far as I could tell, but it was super loud. The noise came from underneath the hood, sounds like the fan is running on high. There should be no reason for the fan to be running on a 50 degree day after the car just barely started. I tried turning off the car, switching from Map 1 back to Map 0, no change. The loud idling continued, and the car was in limp mode.

This morning I try to start the engine immediately after inserting the key, it started, then died right afterwards. Tried starting again and it started fine. Idled a bit rough for a little while, smelled super gassy, the fan was on high, so i just turned the car off.

Anyone have any ideas? Please? I've searched google and this forum, but I'm a BMW noob, just bought this car two or three weeks ago.

[stanlalee]

turn off auto clear and read the code(s) no guess work.

[JDuke335i]

Originally Posted by photos_by_ronnie

I recently installed a JB4 on my stock 2009 335i xDrive with 86,000 miles. I also installed new Bosch spark plugs before installing the JB4. The install went smoothly, and the car started up fine afterwards. I drove it 1 mile before the Engine Malfunction light came on. I turned the car off, turned it back on, and it was gone.

I drove the car about a week or two with no issues. If I would go 50% Throttle while cruising (basically pushing in the speed but not enough to downshift), the engine light would come on. If I went WOT, no engine light and it ran well. This happened with Map 0, Map 1, and Map 5.

Yesterday I turned the car on and immediately the Engine Malfunction (half orange engine) light came on. The car started fine, idled smoothly as far as I could tell, but it was super loud. The noise came from underneath the hood, sounds like the fan is running on high. There should be no reason for the fan to be running on a 50 degree day after the car just barely started. I tried turning off the car, switching from Map 1 back to Map 0, no change. The loud idling continued, and the car was in limp mode.

This morning I try to start the engine immediately after inserting the key, it started, then died right afterwards. Tried starting again and it started fine. Idled a bit rough for a little while, smelled super gassy, the fan was on high, so i just turned the car off.

Anyone have any ideas? Please? I've searched google and this forum, but I'm a BMW noob, just bought this car two or three weeks ago.

Yea you need to read the codes and that will tell you what's wrong . After we see the codes we can help you as well

[photos_by_ronnie]

Ran the codes, got 3 of them...

30FF
2FBC
2D2E

I inspected my charge pipe and it looks somewhat frayed/melted. So I'm ordering a new charge pipe as I write this, I think I'll be buying the Cobb charge pipe. Might also need a new HPFP? Any ideas?

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by photos_by_ronnie

Ran the codes, got 3 of them...

30FF
2FBC
2D2E

I inspected my charge pipe and it looks somewhat frayed/melted. So I'm ordering a new charge pipe as I write this, I think I'll be buying the Cobb charge pipe. Might also need a new HPFP? Any ideas?

Don't buy the Cobb charge pipe! They are known for frequent fitment issues. The VRSF is quite similar in price and style but fits better.

[photos_by_ronnie]

Originally Posted by Yournamehere90

Don't buy the Cobb charge pipe! They are known for frequent fitment issues. The VRSF is quite similar in price and style but fits better.

Well crap, literally just placed that order with Mod Bargains...hopefully mine will fit...

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by photos_by_ronnie

Well crap, literally just placed that order with Mod Bargains...hopefully mine will fit...

I placed an order with **********s and they cancelled it and told me the Cobb wasn't available. If they do ship then they must have a new batch.

[jgoens]

If your fan is running like crazy that is a sign of a water pump failing, which can cause other odd things to happen.

[limitdown]

Try to cancel the cobb cp asap. If you can't, then return it as soon as you receive it. Don't even attempt to fit it, because if you marr it in any way, you might not be able to return it. Please save yourself and or your indy days of frustration. (ask me how I know )
If you search on here or google : cobb charge pipe fitment issues, you'll get a ton of hits.
The VRSF pipe is cheap and fitment is perfect.

[TrollToll]

Originally Posted by limitdown

Try to cancel the cobb cp asap. If you can't, then return it as soon as you receive it. Don't even attempt to fit it, because if you marr it in any way, you might not be able to return it. Please save yourself and or your indy days of frustration. (ask me how I know )
If you search on here or google : cobb charge pipe fitment issues, you'll get a ton of hits.
The VRSF pipe is cheap and fitment is perfect.

I attempted to order the Cobb from that vendor and they cancelled the order and removed it from their site. If it's back up they have most likely resolved it.

[AK.]

Just cancel the order or refund it.
I have the VRSF one and I can vouch for it.
Stock charge pipes are known to go out anyways.

[MannySingh]

Originally Posted by photos_by_ronnie

Ran the codes, got 3 of them...

30FF
2FBC
2D2E

I inspected my charge pipe and it looks somewhat frayed/melted. So I'm ordering a new charge pipe as I write this, I think I'll be buying the Cobb charge pipe. Might also need a new HPFP? Any ideas?

You may have a turbo leak, and your turbos are probably working twice as hard to build the boost you need for low end pressure

[photos_by_ronnie]

Cancelled the Cobb charge pipe, ordered a VRSF charge pipe with Tial BOV and BMS Dual Cone Intakes. Not sure I should be modding the car since it's not even running well, but whatever.

I tried removing the JB4, and the car still ran exactly the same. So far the closest I've come to an idea of what the problem is, is that it might be the fuel pressure control valve? Any idea of how to fix/replace it, along with a DIY? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

I'm thinking maybe since the car is running so rich, that it's automatically turning the fan on high to prevent overheating? I'm starting to the think the charge pipe is not the culprit, but I guess it's good to replace it anyway.

[Antetokounmpo]

Did you try clearing all the codes? Did you buy the jb4 used? Maxcool might be on causing the fan to always run at full speed. I believe 6/2 turns it off.

And the car running rich won't cause the fan to come on.. running rich actually causes it to run cooler. My advice is to clear the codes, try to drive it and take some logs when driving and then read the codes after to see if they come back.

[photos_by_ronnie]

Originally Posted by Heel Toe

Did you try clearing all the codes? Did you buy the jb4 used? Maxcool might be on causing the fan to always run at full speed. I believe 6/2 turns it off.

Remember, I already removed the JB4, the car is currently 100% stock. I did clear codes with an OBDII scanner but the symptoms persisted and the codes returned immediately. And the car ran fine with the JB4 for two weeks without the fan coming on.

On a side note, I did buy the JB4 used. Looks brand new, doubt there's anything wrong with it being used.

[Antetokounmpo]

The OBD2 scanner is useless. Hook the jb4 back up and select menu1/2 to delete the codes, then select 6/2 to make sure max cool is off. If the codes are still there (they would be if you only used the obd 2 scanner) then it could cause it so still not run right.

Do you know how to select those using the steering wheel controls?

And I'm not saying something is wrong with it, the previous owner could have had max cool on causing the fan to run at full speed all the time.

Lastly, it's also possible you water pump is failing, with increased boost comes increase stress on the water pump. It's not uncommon for the wp to go out if you're on the original with more than 60k to need a new one after tuning your car.

[JDuke335i]

Originally Posted by photos_by_ronnie

Remember, I already removed the JB4, the car is currently 100% stock. I did clear codes with an OBDII scanner but the symptoms persisted and the codes returned immediately. And the car ran fine with the JB4 for two weeks without the fan coming on.

On a side note, I did buy the JB4 used. Looks brand new, doubt there's anything wrong with it being used.

I'm sure the jb4 is fine but you want to restore it to factory default settings ( like it is when it's brand new ) . Theirs no telling what settings the guy had stored in the jb4 when he had it . That's why you would want to restore it to factory default settings . Good luck and I hope you get your car fixed soon .

[Milan]

Throw the JB4 away and switch to MHD, your tranny will thank you. Plus then you can do everything from your phone and feel confident that you have a real tune and not piggyback BS.

[limitdown]

30FF is boost leak, change the charge pipe and see if you still get this
2D2E can also be related to the charge pipe
2FBC might be a problem with your HPFP

The best thing to do is to repair/replace the obvious problem first (your charge pipe). Then tackle the other items.
When I first bought my car, I had a ton of different codes. Some were related to each other, while others were completely unrelated. The only way to tell, was to fix the known problem, then narrow things down. Trial and error, process of elimination.

[1BADM3]

Tunes always expose issues with these cars.

[photos_by_ronnie]

I contacted Burger Tuning about the issue, and they are suggesting I check my fuel rail pressure sensor. I will try to do that tonight, hopefully I can find some info about it on the forum so I know what to look for. He said it also could be a fuse for the fuel sensor, so I'm hoping that's all it is.