[matthewo]

I have a lift at work I can use.

I pulled my car under it today and the arms did clear by very little, but the arms were not adjustable enough to locate all 4 on the factory jack points the lift arms were just too long at the shortest possition. anyone know of any other safe areas to put the lift pads for a 4 point car lift?

[gtaccord]

My mechanic puts the arms of the lift directly on the jack pads instead of the lift pads. No rubber mating surface but seems pretty steady.

[matthewo]

yeah that is pretty much what I did.

I used the rear jack pads on the pad of the lift with the shorter arm, then used the arms of the lift with the front jack pads and a 2x6 (the 2x6 helped keep the car level by using the arms vs the pads in the rear, and made for a less slick surface). worked great, other then I had to jack the front up to clear the pads as I needed maybe 1/2" more clearance, so I used a co-workers little scissor jack under the front middle lift point.

all and all the manual trans fluid swap went well, and now I know the lift at work will work fine for my car for future projects.

[Efthreeoh]

I bet the lift is a Rotary isn't it? The only true fix is Rotary came out with updated arms for it's 10K LB lifts in 2006. Just put some blocks of wood between the lifting block (on the car) and the lift arm.

[matthewo]

not sure does kinda look like the arms from the rotary lift.

but this one at work is very old, it seems to be built well and is very sturdy but it is well used, car went up and down just fine and lift has lock point every inch or so it seemed, but im sure this is pretty common with lifts, I just haven't used them before.