[Glennyd]

I need to know if you can test an ECU? I had my car apart over the winter only after having a major limp mode. Turned out the ECU had a burned injector module. I had it fixed and when I put it back together and charged the batt the locked wheel sign came up. It still started and sounded much better then before but sounded as if I had a bad coil. I confirmed this by moving the coil around and the problem followed. but I had the ECU out of its box and moved it around while it was running and it hit the pos terminal. The car shut off. I went back in and it started. I went back the next day and I got nothing. I even took the steering colum out and greased and tested the wheel lock assembly. Put it back together and all I get is the wheel lock sign when I put the key in. I'm wondering if the ECU fried but still was able to fire off one more time after I zapped it. Any ideas?

[Glennyd]

Bump

[335NJ]

I'd recommend getting in touch with a company who repairs the DME for our cars, there's a few out there, so they can properly bench test it. What codes are you getting?

[Glennyd]

No codes now

[Glennyd]

Help

[csu87]

it sounds like it is fried. Especially if you hit the positive terminal and essentially shorted out the ECU, and the fact that your car isnt doing anything.

In another car I had, a shop fried my ECU but was able to start it up once, and drive it outside before it eventually died.

[glachhman2]

pretty sure the dme frame is attached to the ground within so you ruined it

[MHD Tuning]

You might want to simply check your battery. I also got twice the wheel lock sign when I abused the battery with my testing OBD operations without a charger. Let your battery charge. Do the dash lights get on?

[Glennyd]

Put a new battery in. Same thing. Does anyone know of someone that can test it? Lot of ,obey and hassle to change

[longnvu]

I have start car with the dme outside the box with no issues. Only way to test it is to put it in another car. Or test another dme with a cas and key.