[Papa_Lion]

To start, I have a very basic understanding of turbos and the n54. This is my second turbo car (huge upgrade power wise from '12 sonic turbo). Mine is an '08 335xi AT. Loved the power at first, missed the fun of driving a very modded sonic.

Down to business. I am currently running the jb4 tune and dci. Been that way for a while now. Car has 93k miles and starting to show. Wastegate rattle which bugs the craps out of me is causing me to search for fixes and upgrades. Here's what I've come across within my means.

http://turbolabofamerica.com/bmw-335...grade-options/

I am interested in the turbo lab upgrade and wondering if anyone can give feedback on their product, service and the like. Also, can someone direct or enlighten me on the sizing of the factory turbos cw/tw. With a slight upsize, will I have to worry about upgrading fuel pump(s) for my end goal of this upgrade, turbo back with aeroturbine cans, 5" intercooler, and charge pipe (unsure of which or bov/bpv).

The budget is pretty thin, but not so much so that I want cheaply made shit. I need my turbos replaced/rebuilt so I figure this would at least be better that the crap stock turbos.

Cheers!

[n54gte]

Whats your goal?? Youre prob gonna have to up that budget. Take a look at rb turbos/vargas turbo tech.

[Papa_Lion]

I dont need/want to make stupid power, but until I can really do what I want with it I'm just looking at what will get me through the next few years. It's my only vehicle at the moment.

I don't have a goal power wise per se, just mod wise with any required supporting mods.

[fredcase]

I'm in the same boat as you. That looks like the cheapest turbo replacement yet. Have you tried setting your jb4 fud to 98. My rattle is almost gone, and the lag is livable.

I am going to attempt to fix the rattle when installing downpipes. I got a new rear actuator, vacuum lines, and boost solonoids to install at the same time. Keep an eye out for a discussion thread about that soon.

[Papa_Lion]

I just installed the app after 6 months of lagging for no reason at all. I have to learn to use it. I also have a few hopefully minor issues-misfire cylinder 3 and dtml failure that I am currently working on. I will be checking solenoids and replacing vacuum lines soon as I get back home.

[Papa_Lion]

Is the FUD Future Use D?

[fredcase]

Originally Posted by Papa_Lion

Is the FUD Future Use D?

Yes

[Chitown335i]

Originally Posted by Papa_Lion

Is the FUD Future Use D?

What is the FUD option about

[Jaronbwall]

Originally Posted by Chitown335i

What is the FUD option about

+1
Please explain

[fredcase]

Originally Posted by Chitown335i

What is the FUD option about

here.

http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30291

[malgyver]

If its your rear turbo rattling, you can adjust the actuator arm pretty easily with the downpipe off. I looked at what it would take to remove the actuator, and even with a lot of wrenching experience, it would be pretty tricky in that little space.

To adjust the actuator, free the locknut with a 10mm wrench, pull about 10" of vacuum on that actuator, and visualize that it closed, then adjust the rod so that the flapper valve is seated snugly on its seat. I found the rod very hard to spin like the previous tutorial suggests, so I simply pulled off the e-clip on the actuator rod, turned the clevis to the desired position, and reinstalled the rod and e-clip. I had a strong magnet on it so the e-clip wouldn't go flying in case it didn't want to cooperate. Rattle gone, super responsive boost and early spool.

Some folks have been able to adjust the front rod, but they must have tiny hands. Some folks have also simply unbolted the front actuator and shimmed it with washers to take out the play, since the rod is too difficult to get to with the turbo in place, but that looked pretty daunting to me with my downpipes off.

[fredcase]

Originally Posted by malgyver

If its your rear turbo rattling, you can adjust the actuator arm pretty easily with the downpipe off. I looked at what it would take to remove the actuator, and even with a lot of wrenching experience, it would be pretty tricky in that little space.

To adjust the actuator, free the locknut with a 10mm wrench, pull about 10" of vacuum on that actuator, and visualize that it closed, then adjust the rod so that the flapper valve is seated snugly on its seat. I found the rod very hard to spin like the previous tutorial suggests, so I simply pulled off the e-clip on the actuator rod, turned the clevis to the desired position, and reinstalled the rod and e-clip. I had a strong magnet on it so the e-clip wouldn't go flying in case it didn't want to cooperate. Rattle gone, super responsive boost and early spool.

Some folks have been able to adjust the front rod, but they must have tiny hands. Some folks have also simply unbolted the front actuator and shimmed it with washers to take out the play, since the rod is too difficult to get to with the turbo in place, but that looked pretty daunting to me with my downpipes off.

I have adjusted the rod from the top, worked great, for 6 months, then rattle came back, I am trying to perform a better solution.

not to thread jack, go here

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1133367

[Papa_Lion]

Adjusted FUD TO 99 and rattle hasn't changed. I really need to get under the hood and figure this out.

Back to the OP, what supporting mods will be needed for aforementioned mods? Anyone?

[KeepRidingDirty]

Originally Posted by Papa_Lion

Adjusted FUD TO 99 and rattle hasn't changed. I really need to get under the hood and figure this out.

Back to the OP, what supporting mods will be needed for aforementioned mods? Anyone?

Pretty sure it's supposed to be FUD 98 not 99

[fredcase]

Originally Posted by KeepRidingDirty

Pretty sure it's supposed to be FUD 98 not 99

Yep. 99 stops wastegate adaptation. 98 changes position based on speed i believe.

Try 98

[Papa_Lion]

Out of state but will report back when I try it. Thanks.

[Papa_Lion]

FUD at 99 didn't work unfortunately. I did get one issue fixed, (code for #3 misfire) which was a bad coil. Swapped #2 and #3 and problem followed the coil. Whew, got lucky. Replaced them all.
FUD back to zero, put my foot in it a few times and hit 15.3 psi (map 5) but still rattling. No codes either. They were popping up at 4k and limp mode ensued. So now the only thing left is small turbo upgrade.

[longnvu]

The only downside with turbo lab is that they don't fix the wastage issue

[Papa_Lion]

That's what I was most concerned with. It says on the site Turbo Lab is the same as the Dinan upgrade, which includes a wastegate upgrade. Bummer.

[fredcase]

Originally Posted by Papa_Lion

FUD at 99 didn't work unfortunately. I did get one issue fixed, (code for #3 misfire) which was a bad coil. Swapped #2 and #3 and problem followed the coil. Whew, got lucky. Replaced them all.
FUD back to zero, put my foot in it a few times and hit 15.3 psi (map 5) but still rattling. No codes either. They were popping up at 4k and limp mode ensued. So now the only thing left is small turbo upgrade.

98! ninety eight.

NOT 99.

[Papa_Lion]

^^^that's what I meant 98. ^^^

[fredcase]

Maybe vargas oem replacement is an option for you. I think oem turbine, upgraded wastegate. $1100ish