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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Battery Recommendations?
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05-04-2015, 10:53 AM | #1 |
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Battery Recommendations?
My battery is finally starting to go. I get the battery symbol if i leave my radio on for a couple minutes without the ignition being on.
Went to my dealership (new Century) and they wanted $377 JUST for the battery. Nope. Called another dealership and they wanted $325. Nope lol. Looking into getting an aftermarket battery now. What battery brands and models do you guys recommend that I should get keeping the same specifications as the OEM one so I don't have to code (non-AGM). I have heard some mixed reviews about NAPA batteries and Duralast. I was told that Excide, who makes the OEM BMW batteries, also makes the NAPA ones? Any input is welcome. (FYI, I have BT cable so I can register the battery myself)
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05-04-2015, 11:33 AM | #3 |
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Cheap.. They are all made by 3 companies.. If you order online and store pick up you can get 50 dollars off of your battery from advance auto..
For those interested Advance Auto Parts deal this week: $50 off an order of $125 or more (usual exclusions apply) The coupon will also yield the following discounts: $10 off $25+ $20 off $50+ $30 off $75+ $40 off $100+ with code WD518 |
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05-04-2015, 11:44 AM | #4 |
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Here's what I ended up using a couple years ago (non-AGM). It's been strong and was strong all through last winter which was freaking brutal here in Philly:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=931443 |
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05-04-2015, 11:45 AM | #5 |
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If you have a pep boys near you ask about the Bosch oem battery, I've replaced about 50 bmw battery's at my shop in the last few years, always using the oem bosch battery from pepboys. Usually it runs me about $150 plus core. Your price might be a little higher because your not a shop but still cheaper than most places. Never had a battery fail and it comes with a 5 year warranty. You won't even have to register it because it is a h8 gel battery
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05-04-2015, 11:54 AM | #6 |
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Are optima batteries still a good choice?
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05-04-2015, 12:44 PM | #7 |
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If you don't want to code, you'll want to make sure you get a battery with the same AH. It'll be written on the label of your current battery.
I've seen many cheap batteries that boast high CCAs, but their RC / AH was crap. Anytime you change the AH, or battery type (AGM vs. non-AGM), you'll want to code the car. I ended up getting a great deal on an AGM, with better specs than my outgoing, at a forum-friendly dealer here in Canada.
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05-04-2015, 01:40 PM | #8 |
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Does anyone know what size battery I should get? Thanks in advanced.
EDIT: I just saw getbmwparts which has the OEM battery for $183, shipped. Should I just get that instead?
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Last edited by 1chanc3; 05-04-2015 at 01:54 PM.. |
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05-04-2015, 01:59 PM | #9 |
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My trusty mod shop just slapped an Interstate battery that he had in stock less than a month ago and so far so good. Only paid $150 including a register, even though I had the tool to do it myself. I believe mine is the MT5-48/H6 with 760 CCA.
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05-04-2015, 02:46 PM | #10 | |
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If you get it from advance auto it would be an 80 dollar battery instead made by the same company. |
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05-04-2015, 03:02 PM | #11 |
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Because I don't have a AAP 50 miles of me....
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05-04-2015, 03:44 PM | #12 | |
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I live in Canada (cold winters) and have an aftermarket stereo, so I got the biggest OEM available (850 CCA, 185 RC, 92 AH). Of course had to code it accordingly. If you don't have to worry about these issues, you can go with something smaller. My original OEM was 640 CCA, 140 RC, 60 AH. You'll have to match the AH figure to avoid coding (not RC as I mistakenly said in a previous post).
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05-04-2015, 03:52 PM | #13 |
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I got one from Autozone 2-3 years ago for about $100 and its been fine.
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05-04-2015, 04:12 PM | #15 | |
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I use xs power batteries not exactly cheap but its the best you can get for car audio. The only other company that can compare is Northstar IMO. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...wer-D4800.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...Power-580.html http://buy.northstarbattery.com/p/nsb-agm48-l3-battery |
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05-04-2015, 04:26 PM | #16 | |
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So what does group48 correlate to? I'm running 80 Ah, 140RC, 640CCA battery on my car now. Man, can they not make finding a battery more complex?? lol
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05-04-2015, 04:35 PM | #17 | |
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http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...2#post28330262 |
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05-04-2015, 04:58 PM | #18 | |
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Looks like I'm going with Napa battery as it is the closest RC to my stock: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...448_0427818968 Cant they just make a site where they give you the exact battery needed? lol
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05-04-2015, 05:01 PM | #19 |
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05-04-2015, 05:11 PM | #20 |
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http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-...ttery/16782659
paid 117 about over a year ago. i didnt even register it, cause i dont play by the rules. everything is fine and im loving life right now.
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05-04-2015, 05:17 PM | #21 |
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Group 49 Lead Acid. Duracell's at Sam's Club are pretty much the best bang for the buck, made by Deka.
AGM's are actually a bad idea IMO: - Heavier for same group size - Less output for same group size - Cost more - Typically more prone to having issues (not that common but still happens) You aren't rock crawling, leaving the battery in an open passenger compartment, off-roading, or other things that warrant an AGM. You basically spend more to get a heavier and lower performing battery. Why do that? |
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05-04-2015, 05:23 PM | #22 | ||
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So is my battery H6 or H8? The one Tee posted is H8. My buddy also has a H8 size battery. But bmw325i says its H6.... I'm confused again. Is there a way for me to definitively find out? Does it say somewhere on the battery or anywhere?
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