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      11-22-2014, 02:44 PM   #1
purdyawesome
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Can anyone recommend a torque wrench?

Can anyone recommend a specific general purpose torque wrench? I'd like a nice one that will last forever and can do 0-? lbs... Would rather not buy one for low tension applications and another for more... Good quality, decent value - don't need hand forged, damascus steel, bomb-proof... I'm going to drop in some BMC air filters and the cf strut brace is just one of the millions of things I've needed a torque wrench for and not had... Thanks.
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      11-22-2014, 03:13 PM   #2
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I'd recommend CDI. I have a 0-75 and another that goes to 150ft/lbs. I didn't go with the electronic version.
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      11-22-2014, 03:16 PM   #3
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I have one made by Titan - It's pretty good, I used it to swap springs one time and most use it to torque my wheels on and off. I wouldn't use it for building an engine, but for most stuff when you only have to be close to accurate it's good.
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      11-22-2014, 03:18 PM   #4
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Craftsman. Can never go wrong with them.
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      11-22-2014, 03:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jockey View Post
Craftsman. Can never go wrong with them.
Seconded. Can get a great deal on one this time of year too.
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      11-22-2014, 03:22 PM   #6
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I personally have Craftsman but would recommend snap on or CDI
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      11-22-2014, 03:53 PM   #7
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Thanks guys - now which "type" of torque wrench? The click kind? or the old fashioned type that guys use in bike shops? Also, will these standard torque wrenches accept a socket to remove our wheels? While I'm at it, might as well kill two birds with one stone - what about a jack? If I want to change out my wheels on my own, what is the best way? I don't want to screw up the side skirts or anything.... floor jack?
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      11-22-2014, 04:15 PM   #8
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I like my Snap-on torque wrench. Here is an eBay ad to the one I use. I use this one for wheels and bigger stuff I need torqued.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-1-2-...=US_Hand_Tools


I have another one that I use for smaller applications.
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      11-22-2014, 07:53 PM   #9
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Precision Tools is the best one have used thus far, many different models, excellent service post sales and always precise!
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      11-22-2014, 08:11 PM   #10
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You don't need a high-end torque wrench to do suspension work. Being off by +-3ft lb is fine. Craftsman should be only off about +-4%. The more you pay, the more accurate it gets (like Snap On). Unless you're rebuilding your engine block or heads, you don't need it to be more accurate than that. Save your money and stick with Craftsman, lifetime warranty and no questions asked for warranty swaps.
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      11-22-2014, 08:21 PM   #11
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I dunno if I would actually recommend it but I've had mine from Harbor Freight for years and have had no problems with it. $10 with a coupon from the flyers lol.
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      11-22-2014, 08:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdoooh
I dunno if I would actually recommend it but I've had mine from Harbor Freight for years and have had no problems with it. $10 with a coupon from the flyers lol.
+1, can't go wrong with $10 harbor freight. Use the same one as well. Bought two for the hell of it, cheapness rules
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      11-22-2014, 09:40 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbellz View Post
I'd recommend CDI. I have a 0-75 and another that goes to 150ft/lbs. I didn't go with the electronic version.
This. All you need to know is that Snap On sources theirs from CDI. I have 2 and so far so good. I'd go with the click just to make life easier/ cheaper. Make sure you store it with the tension set at the minimum or you can prematurely wear the mechanism.
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      11-22-2014, 09:44 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTS View Post
Precision Tools is the best one have used thus far, many different models, excellent service post sales and always precise!


But have a feeling you meant Precision Instruments.

I've been using the 1/2", and 3-piece 3/4" drive tools, split beam design so you don't have to turn it down like the HF and Craftsman's style barrel wrench which will lose it's accuracy and then what good is it for? The wrench is only as useful as it's calibration.

$10 torque wrench? Why bother, I'd trust my muscle memory before those things. I spend enough time at the track to see lugs come off from being under torqued and lugs shear from being over torqued, not worth saving a few bucks over. The 1/2" can be had for $140.

http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/C.php
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s.../dp/B002XMSFIM
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_hi...ts&node=228013
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Last edited by consolidated; 11-22-2014 at 09:59 PM..
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      11-22-2014, 10:36 PM   #15
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I have this GearWrench model, love it!

http://www.gearwrench.com/torque-wre...50-ft-lbs.html
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      11-22-2014, 11:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by consolidated View Post


But have a feeling you meant Precision Instruments.
Yes! thank you for correcting me
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      11-23-2014, 12:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdoooh View Post
I dunno if I would actually recommend it but I've had mine from Harbor Freight for years and have had no problems with it. $10 with a coupon from the flyers lol.
I have had the HF one for a while now. I use it mostly for lug nuts but have also used it for suspension on my truck and my lawn mower blades.

I've checked it against a friends snap-on and it "seemed" right on. I've never felt "unsafe" or "unsure" of bolt torque from its use.

If you were going to rebuild a motor, I'd suggest a higher end torque wrench as connecting rod and head bolts require alot more precision. But even then, the manufacturers usually give you a 2-3 ft-lb tolerance.
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      11-23-2014, 01:34 PM   #18
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Yeah I pretty much use it exclusively on lug nuts haha so I imagine it's fine.
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      11-24-2014, 06:34 AM   #19
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Floor Jack

You'll get a lot of opinions here, too.

Regardless - don't forget to purchase the adapter for the jack head to the BMW jacking points, unless you already have it!

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES251251/?g...Fcvm7AodBRYAoQ
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      11-28-2014, 01:53 PM   #20
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Mines got shift lights but did pay $700. Needed when rebuilding S65
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      11-29-2014, 06:22 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrbri View Post
You'll get a lot of opinions here, too.

Regardless - don't forget to purchase the adapter for the jack head to the BMW jacking points, unless you already have it!

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES251251/?g...Fcvm7AodBRYAoQ
wow. thanks. would have never known i needed an "adapter plate"... good information. so - if i have that, and any sort of floor jack, i'm good to go??
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      11-29-2014, 10:05 PM   #22
bdoooh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purdyawesome
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrbri View Post
You'll get a lot of opinions here, too.

Regardless - don't forget to purchase the adapter for the jack head to the BMW jacking points, unless you already have it!

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES251251/?g...Fcvm7AodBRYAoQ
wow. thanks. would have never known i needed an "adapter plate"... good information. so - if i have that, and any sort of floor jack, i'm good to go??
Yup! If you have a jack with a flat top though, the adapter isn't particularly necessary I feel.
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