[335driver07]

Hey guys this might sound stupid. But I've been dealing with so much issues lately with the transmission shifting rough, especially with jerky shifts everywhere. Just yesterday I had the DME, DSC, EGS programmed though ISTA from a local Indy. I'm about fed up with the way this car is shifting to the point that I am so tempted to just replace the mechatronics unit with a remanufactured one from theCTSC. However, who knows if that is the cure or maybe I just need a whole new transmission. Fluid has already been drain and filled, new filter pan, along with fluid level correction.

My warranty runs out in 4000 miles. I was told by my local reputable Indy to just beat the crap out of the transmission so I could get a replacement approved with my extended warranty. I'm not throwing any codes at all and without any codes, no warranty can be done.

Should I take the advice from my local Indy and try to beat the life out of the transmission hoping it will set a code within the next 4000 miles or try to just replace the mechatronics out of my own pocket to fix these shifting issues. If you answer beat the crap out the transmission, how do you suggest I do so without making it look intentional. Thanks.

[mjleamy]

It might be tough to beat it into submission, but a little kerosene in the tranny, or even some gritty sand, will do it rather quickly

[335driver07]

Originally Posted by mjleamy

It might be tough to beat it into submission, but a little kerosene in the tranny, or even some gritty sand, will do it rather quickly

Think that will make the tranny go in 4000 miles?

[Gizm0]

Try shifting into reverse while doing 60mph going forward?

[David3]

Originally Posted by Gizm0

Try shifting into reverse while doing 60mph going forward?

Doing so will actually do nothing as the transmission electronics will not allow such tomfoolery.

[NGEE]

We're talking aftermarket warranty, correct? What are the terms? Do they really need a *code* to grant a claim? In other words, if the dealer determines the transmission needs work, don't they just file the claim to the provider? If this is the case, it just becomes a matter of convincing BMW that your transmission has a defect. And if that's the case, I'd take it to BMW NA since you've apparently been having trouble for some time. Of course, with all that coding work, you might have a difficult time making your case.

Or maybe I'm just misunderstanding the situation.

[335driver07]

Originally Posted by NGEE

We're talking aftermarket warranty, correct? What are the terms? Do they really need a *code* to grant a claim? In other words, if the dealer determines the transmission needs work, don't they just file the claim to the provider? If this is the case, it just becomes a matter of convincing BMW that your transmission has a defect. And if that's the case, I'd take it to BMW NA since you've apparently been having trouble for some time. Of course, with all that coding work, you might have a difficult time making your case.

Or maybe I'm just misunderstanding the situation.

It's actually an extended warranty as my car is an 07. It's probably too old to take up with BMW NA. I've taken it to Stevens Creek BMW, along with two reputable independent shops and they couldn't replicate the rough shifting. All three mechanics said I would need a code for warranty to take care of sow thing that expensive of a repair. I'm thinking I could just change the solenoids as I've read members have done and that seems to have cured the issue.

[fun2drive]

Changing the solenoids might work to help the quality of the shifting. Pretty clear you have cleared the adaptations which returns the transmission to learning mode. Good news is the solenoids are not killer to replace.
Love to hear what you decide to do...

[335driver07]

Originally Posted by fun2drive

Changing the solenoids might work to help the quality of the shifting. Pretty clear you have cleared the adaptations which returns the transmission to learning mode. Good news is the solenoids are not killer to replace.
Love to hear what you decide to do...

I'm leaning more towards the solenoid replacement for about $500. But for $1500, I can purchase a remanufactured mechatronics from theCTSC. Are the problems with the mechatronics usually the solenoids or the valves as well?

I've read that the ZF transmission is pretty robust. Being that my car is stock, I don't know if the transmission will just break even if I try to gas it at every single green light. Being that I have 4000 miles left on warranty, the transmission might still be alive. Should have beat the crap out of it when I bought that car and had 24,000 miles on warranty lol.

[galahad05]

I would personally rather try to fix it. But that's how I usually think. "Better the devil you know", and all that.

[335driver07]

Originally Posted by galahad05

I would personally rather try to fix it. But that's how I usually think. "Better the devil you know", and all that.

That's what I lean on doing. I really don't want to beat the crap out the transmission. That puts unnecessary wear on the engine and turbos as well. What would you recommend changing. Solenoids or the whole mechatronics? It sucks that these Indy shops don't really want to help discover what the problem is.

[galahad05]

Man I'm not qualified to really answer that one; I drive a stick and am not really that knowledgeable on the inner workings of auto trannys.

[galahad05]

BUT.....one of the first things that people I've known around here do when they have shifting problems (more with manuals than autoboxes to be honest) is to replace the transmission fluid with a higher-performance alternative.

Don't know how hard that is or even how useful, but there, my $0.02.

[thomas88162]

Reverse Burnouts! That'll take care of the damn thing.

[mjleamy]

Originally Posted by 335driver07

Think that will make the tranny go in 4000 miles?

Yes, this is essentially how cash for clunkers cars were destroyed: http://jalopnik.com/5327580/video-ho...r-clunkers-car

I am not really suggesting you do this by the way.

[335driver07]

Originally Posted by mjleamy

Yes, this is essentially how cash for clunkers cars were destroyed: http://jalopnik.com/5327580/video-ho...r-clunkers-car

I am not really suggesting you do this by the way.

That seems too scary to do lol. I think I'm just going to replace either the solenoids or mechatronics unit. Too bad warranty won't cover that with no fault codes.

[328XIdiot]

Are you modded? It is a common problem that the Mechatronic adapter between the Mechtronic and transmission cracks and leads to erratic shifting problems. Usually the transmission itself does not break. This is DIYable. Taking it to a Euro trans specialist would definitely help.

http://www.thectsc.com/products/mech...p21-44-45.html

[ThatRWD]

Describe your rough shifting, imo these transmissions are crappy. Or maybe it's bmws software on them. Mine has been shifting rough for ages. Plenty of other people report the same.

[335driver07]

Originally Posted by 328XIdiot

Are you modded? It is a common problem that the Mechatronic adapter between the Mechtronic and transmission cracks and leads to erratic shifting problems. Usually the transmission itself does not break. This is DIYable. Taking it to a Euro trans specialist would definitely help.

http://www.thectsc.com/products/mech...p21-44-45.html

No I'm fully stock. I'm thinking about replacing that mechatronic seal adapter when I do change the solenoids.

[335driver07]

Originally Posted by ThatRWD

Describe your rough shifting, imo these transmissions are crappy. Or maybe it's bmws software on them. Mine has been shifting rough for ages. Plenty of other people report the same.

The rough shifts are intermittent. When the rough shifts occur, it's during the 1-2, 2-3 upshift under light to medium throttle in the 2000-3000 RPM range. A few times, the transmission seemed to clunk/slam into the next gear. The roughness doesn't feel very violent, in fact my girlfriend doesn't even notice when I point it out.