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      10-30-2014, 08:40 AM   #1
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Spark plug arm broke off in cylinder

I noticed a sputter while on throttle towards middle of 4th few weeks ago.i don't drive car much.i decided to check all my plugs(5992)NGK. I found cylinder 2 plug top ark arm missing.pic included.the pic of other spark plug shows how all the other ones look like(normal).i used camera scope (Milwaukee camera)to look in that cylinder(pics included).Shows oil and looks to be the particles from plug maybe.i scoped all other cylinders and they all have some oil in them.So,
-how do I remove the particles out of cylinder?
-is it normal for all cylinders to have that much oil?

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      10-30-2014, 08:41 AM   #2
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Cylinder 2 with debri and oil
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      10-30-2014, 08:43 AM   #3
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Another pic same cylinder
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      10-30-2014, 08:44 AM   #4
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All plugs look like this the other 5.
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      10-30-2014, 10:30 AM   #5
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A couple things could have happened:

1) Plug wasn't gapped carefully and the ground strap was bent back/forth during the gapping process which weakens Iridium based ground straps at the laser based weld. I don't think this is the case here as it didn't brake at the weld.

2) Some severe knock event.

3) Motor ingested something hitting the plug.

Suggest testing compression in that cylinder and doing a leakdown test. If it checks out then just throw a new plug in there properly gapped.

Here's an article on our blog in regards to NGK 5992 plugs and gapping:

http://blog.protuningfreaks.com/2013...m-ilzkbr7a-8g/

Lastly, datalog and review the tune you're running and ensure it isn't knocking. Given you're running meth I'd assume your tune is set aggressively and you'll really do yourself a favour getting an Aquamist turbine based flow sensor wired up to your JB for proper flow metering.

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      10-30-2014, 01:25 PM   #6
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If the electrode did not come right out through the exhaust valves, then it bounced around in the cylinder. Some pock marks hear and there will be ok, but if you have oil in the cylinder, then most likely it scored that cylinder = need a new block. You need a camera that you can look at the head from in there to see what damage might be up there. The plug might have been loose also and vibrated itself apart.
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      10-30-2014, 01:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proTUNING Freaks View Post
A couple things could have happened:

1) Plug wasn't gapped carefully and the ground strap was bent back/forth during the gapping process which weakens Iridium based ground straps at the laser based weld. I don't think this is the case here as it didn't brake at the weld.

2) Some severe knock event.

3) Motor ingested something hitting the plug.

Suggest testing compression in that cylinder and doing a leakdown test. If it checks out then just throw a new plug in there properly gapped.

Here's an article on our blog in regards to NGK 5992 plugs and gapping:

http://blog.protuningfreaks.com/2013...m-ilzkbr7a-8g/

Lastly, datalog and review the tune you're running and ensure it isn't knocking. Given you're running meth I'd assume your tune is set aggressively and you'll really do yourself a favour getting an Aquamist turbine based flow sensor wired up to your JB for proper flow metering.

Dzenno@PTF
Wouldn't there be a super knock code if there was a wicked knock event?
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      10-30-2014, 02:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proTUNING Freaks View Post
A couple things could have happened:

1) Plug wasn't gapped carefully and the ground strap was bent back/forth during the gapping process which weakens Iridium based ground straps at the laser based weld. I don't think this is the case here as it didn't brake at the weld.

2) Some severe knock event.

3) Motor ingested something hitting the plug.

Suggest testing compression in that cylinder and doing a leakdown test. If it checks out then just throw a new plug in there properly gapped.

Here's an article on our blog in regards to NGK 5992 plugs and gapping:

http://blog.protuningfreaks.com/2013...m-ilzkbr7a-8g/

Lastly, datalog and review the tune you're running and ensure it isn't knocking. Given you're running meth I'd assume your tune is set aggressively and you'll really do yourself a favour getting an Aquamist turbine based flow sensor wired up to your JB for proper flow metering.

Dzenno@PTF
That's the next thing to do a leak down/compression test.but what about oil in cylinders? I have oil in all cylinders anyway.so must be normal to have in all?
How about if some debri is sitting there on piston can I somehow vac it up,or do I have to magiver something to get in there to clean the top piston?
As for tune it's not to aggressive .
12.7 timing,17 psi boost,100%meth & e55 mix fuel.
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      10-30-2014, 02:33 PM   #9
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It kinda makes sense you were knocking as the grounding arm may have acted as a "glow plug" causing preignition. And David1 is right, there should be a code on that knock...
As for a McGiver, you have the inspection tool if you don't see any debris the arm has most likely disintegrated from all the hell it went through. The suggestion of a leak down/compression test is sound advice. IMHO if you're off more than 15 pounds, you need a rebuild at the least. I feel for you as this would be a nightmare scenario for anyone!
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      10-30-2014, 03:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David1 View Post
Wouldn't there be a super knock code if there was a wicked knock event?
We'll I checked and no codes,no misfire,nada.
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      10-30-2014, 03:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spandexder View Post
It kinda makes sense you were knocking as the grounding arm may have acted as a "glow plug" causing preignition. And David1 is right, there should be a code on that knock...
As for a McGiver, you have the inspection tool if you don't see any debris the arm has most likely disintegrated from all the hell it went through. The suggestion of a leak down/compression test is sound advice. IMHO if you're off more than 15 pounds, you need a rebuild at the least. I feel for you as this would be a nightmare scenario for anyone!
Thanks for the kind words.i have always maintained my car perfectly.am on top with maintenance.you never think this could happen to you.
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      10-30-2014, 03:11 PM   #12
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As for leakdown/compression test.i tried the search here and couldn't find a DIY.anyone have a link?
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      10-30-2014, 04:46 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N54 TuNeR View Post
As for leakdown/compression test.i tried the search here and couldn't find a DIY.anyone have a link?
You should be able to come up with something via google.



You'll need to go to an auto parts store and get the appropriate gauges and fittings.

If your spraying meth for maximum output, please consider going to twin or even 3 small nozzles.

At this time I have fears of poor atomization cylinder to cylinder, have you been logging your car on each cylinder every now and then?

Just to clarify, I'm not blaming methanol on this particular instance, I'm just as stumped as you but I'am concerned with you going forward and still using that large nozzle.

If you do intend on keeping that nozzle I'd highly recommend tuning your car to MBT on pump gas and spraying for extra head room and IAT reduction only. Of course it's your vehicle but that's my recommendation.
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      10-30-2014, 09:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions View Post
You should be able to come up with something via google.



You'll need to go to an auto parts store and get the appropriate gauges and fittings.

If your spraying meth for maximum output, please consider going to twin or even 3 small nozzles.

At this time I have fears of poor atomization cylinder to cylinder, have you been logging your car on each cylinder every now and then?

Just to clarify, I'm not blaming methanol on this particular instance, I'm just as stumped as you but I'am concerned with you going forward and still using that large nozzle.

If you do intend on keeping that nozzle I'd highly recommend tuning your car to MBT on pump gas and spraying for extra head room and IAT reduction only. Of course it's your vehicle but that's my recommendation.
Yes Jeff.i log with all cylinders.i will switch to a cm10 nozzle for now then get a duel nozzle setup like with smaller nozzles fir better atomization.figured running pure meth in these cooler weather would be ok and am running a e55 mix but could be due to bad atomization.i also carbon cleaned intake this past spring.
But first will do a leakdown/compression test.thanks for the link
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      10-31-2014, 02:02 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N54 TuNeR View Post
Yes Jeff.i log with all cylinders.i will switch to a cm10 nozzle for now then get a duel nozzle setup like with smaller nozzles fir better atomization.figured running pure meth in these cooler weather would be ok and am running a e55 mix but could be due to bad atomization.i also carbon cleaned intake this past spring.
But first will do a leakdown/compression test.thanks for the link
Leak-down has more useful info then compression test but it would be a good start. You need a two gauge leak-down tester and shop air for a proper leak down though. That is why shops just do compression tests and tell you "You need a new motor" not your head gasket is blown or bent valve in exhaust/intake or scored cylinder/cracked piston.
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      10-31-2014, 01:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N54 TuNeR View Post
Cylinder 2 with debri and oil
Probably detonation...or you may have damaged the plug during install and it finally failed. A leaky injector can also create similar probelms. I doubt you did any damage to your cylinder wall as previously stated above. What you are seeing in the cylinder probably isnt oil, it is more likely unburned fuel mixed with carbon.
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      10-31-2014, 01:34 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j1gilles View Post
Probably detonation...or you may have damaged the plug during install and it finally failed. A leaky injector can also create similar probelms. I doubt you did any damage to your cylinder wall as previously stated above. What you are seeing in the cylinder probably isnt oil, it is more likely unburned fuel mixed with carbon.
Oh ok.car starts up no problem idles great but will still do a leakdown and compression test to make sure.
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      11-01-2014, 05:16 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N54 TuNeR View Post
Oh ok.car starts up no problem idles great but will still do a leakdown and compression test to make sure.
How many miles ? There was a post few days ago where spark plug melted, he was running 20 psi or something, if u have no codes id vaccum out the metal debris from cylinder check compression, replace spark plug( use bosch it has 3 side electrodes that don't pop out like ngk) check oil filter for metal parts, change oil and just drive it man ... looks like u lucked out, if there was damage to valves etc theres no way u wont have felt it
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      11-01-2014, 02:45 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007_e350 View Post
How many miles ? There was a post few days ago where spark plug melted, he was running 20 psi or something, if u have no codes id vaccum out the metal debris from cylinder check compression, replace spark plug( use bosch it has 3 side electrodes that don't pop out like ngk) check oil filter for metal parts, change oil and just drive it man ... looks like u lucked out, if there was damage to valves etc theres no way u wont have felt it
I made a homemade tip to get in cylinder to vacuum anything left.
Car has 39,000 miles.i drive it on weekends mostly unless I'm tuning
I drove it yesterday,drives great starts great,no codes.im running Luke flash with 12.7 timing,17psi boost,100% meth,cm14 nozzles,e55/60 mixture,255inline.intake cleaned past spring.
I didn't really get on it yesterday just driving normal with few short pulls.still feels it's got power so....I haven't done a compression/leak down test yet.ill do that this upcoming week.never had issue before.i take care of my car.car trapped 120mph few weeks ago with stock turbos so can say I don't feel it slower now.
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      05-16-2019, 05:49 PM   #20
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I know this is old, but I had the same thing happen. I have a missfire, but it is Cylinder 6 and the electrode was in 3.

Thanks guys!
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