[adolzero]

Feed out and remove the spring strut holder downward, it shall be removed from spring strut itself.

[pbonsalb]

Are you fighting the swaybar or did you disconnect it already?

[Ian335xd]

Originally Posted by Rafichicago

I'll add one more photo for reference

You need to remove the strut from the lower(yoke). So you need to bolt back on the lower part of the strut mounting and then remove the suspension strut tube from the bracket.

[Rafichicago]

Thank you everyone for taking time to reply. My main problem is that I don't seem to have enough clearance to remove strut from its mounting that is attached to the lower control arm. Since this suspension is all new to me. Seems like I have to pull the whole thing downwards much more than I would think is safe to do. That's my main concern. I've tried pulling quite hard but I don't seem to be having enough clearance. I am trying to avoid axle shaft from falling out damaging the boot. Looks like I will need to pull on the whole thing harder to remove the damn strut. I was wondering if unbolting lower control arm, that strut bracket is bolted to from subframe will help in getting clearance I need and not completely ruin alignment. It seems like even when pulling hard I still need another inch or so to remove bracket from strut. I will be busy today so I will probably start working on it this Saturday. Rear ones were replaced already and my wife have already driven the car. She says that it remained stiff but in a different more pleasant way the tears are what felt like being not dialed in the best by bmw.

[Used2be]

I just came upon this post this morning. To be clear, you have released the axle from the hub? I was in your situation also, with the car not far off the ground and found it difficult to push the hub down. I tied a loop of rope around the hub and used a long bar as a lever to bring the hub down that extra inch or so. With the jack stand where it is I’d think you could put one end of the pry bar through the stand, with the bar coming out past the hub through the loop far enough to give you leverage to push the hub down. With the extra leverage it’s easy.

[Simon H]

I dont think you are supposed to take the strut off, with the fork attached ?, have a look at this Evolve video, and see if you can pick anything up ?.Think around the 2.25 min mark ?.

[adolzero]

Originally Posted by Rafichicago

Thank you everyone for taking time to reply. My main problem is that I don't seem to have enough clearance to remove strut from its mounting that is attached to the lower control arm. Since this suspension is all new to me. Seems like I have to pull the whole thing downwards much more than I would think is safe to do. That's my main concern. I've tried pulling quite hard but I don't seem to be having enough clearance. I am trying to avoid axle shaft from falling out damaging the boot. Looks like I will need to pull on the whole thing harder to remove the damn strut. I was wondering if unbolting lower control arm, that strut bracket is bolted to from subframe will help in getting clearance I need and not completely ruin alignment. It seems like even when pulling hard I still need another inch or so to remove bracket from strut. I will be busy today so I will probably start working on it this Saturday. Rear ones were replaced already and my wife have already driven the car. She says that it remained stiff but in a different more pleasant way the tears are what felt like being not dialed in the best by bmw.

Originally Posted by Rafichicago

Thank you everyone for taking time to reply. My main problem is that I don't seem to have enough clearance to remove strut from its mounting that is attached to the lower control arm. Since this suspension is all new to me. Seems like I have to pull the whole thing downwards much more than I would think is safe to do. That's my main concern. I've tried pulling quite hard but I don't seem to be having enough clearance. I am trying to avoid axle shaft from falling out damaging the boot. Looks like I will need to pull on the whole thing harder to remove the damn strut. I was wondering if unbolting lower control arm, that strut bracket is bolted to from subframe will help in getting clearance I need and not completely ruin alignment. It seems like even when pulling hard I still need another inch or so to remove bracket from strut. I will be busy today so I will probably start working on it this Saturday. Rear ones were replaced already and my wife have already driven the car. She says that it remained stiff but in a different more pleasant way the tears are what felt like being not dialed in the best by bmw.

so no error code through out right？ sound they are compatible in a good manner

my only wonder is if you need to code VDP control unit to LCI so it would really make big difference

[Rafichicago]

Originally Posted by adolzero

so no error code through out right？ sound they are compatible in a good manner

my only wonder is if you need to code VDP control unit to LCI so it would really make big difference

There's no errors whatsoever. Same part numbers and same plugs. To be clear I am not trying to make this car a comp. Just trying to get a little better more compliant ride.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by Used2be

I just came upon this post this morning. To be clear, you have released the axle from the hub? I was in your situation also, with the car not far off the ground and found it difficult to push the hub down. I tied a loop of rope around the hub and used a long bar as a lever to bring the hub down that extra inch or so. With the jack stand where it is I’d think you could put one end of the pry bar through the stand, with the bar coming out past the hub through the loop far enough to give you leverage to push the hub down. With the extra leverage it’s easy.

I did not release the axle from the hub when I removed my struts to change the springs. BMW instructions say to do so and that would make it easier.

[Used2be]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I did not release the axle from the hub when I removed my struts to change the springs. BMW instructions say to do so and that would make it easier.

Interesting. After my experience I thought that might be possible as the axle isn’t held into the transfer case as I thought it might be. Since it can slide out, pulling the lower suspension arm down with the axle still attached can be done. From the picture it doesn’t seem that Rafi has released his either. But releasing the axle did provide more clearance for the strut holder to be removed. My pry bar method should still be functional whether the axle is released or not. With the car not far off the ground I had a hard time putting downward pressure on the hub with just my hands. With the car on a lift, were you able to pull down on it without the need to use leverage?

[pbonsalb]

I just pushed down. But don’t push the the strut fork against the axle. Push the hub/brake.

Similar issue at the rear end of the car, but when reinstalling the struts. You have to push the suspension down to get the bottom of the strut to go into the hub.

[Used2be]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I just pushed down. But don’t push the the strut fork against the axle. Push the hub/brake.

Of course, the loop is around the hub.

Similar issue at the rear end of the car, but when reinstalling the struts. You have to push the suspension down to get the bottom of the strut to go into the hub.

I made the mistake of leaving the sway bar attached on the first side, but still managed to get it together. Realizing my mistake, I detached the bar for the other side...much easier!

[Rafichicago]

Thanks everyone for replying. From videos I've seen it seems like installers (evolve video included ) have at least lower suspension arm removed, but are not showing it. Mechanic seems to just hammering the strut bracket down. Meaning he has enough clearance to do so. I was trying to understand what part is creating resistance that you need to overcome pulling the hub down. I believe it's the lower control arm bushing that's bolted to the subframe. I believe that's why Bmw is asking for removal of axle and that control arm if I understood this right. Anyway it seems to be doable without removing them. Seems like prying down with pry bar is a great way since it'll give me control over what's going on with suspension and all the lines that are around it when pushing down. I just bolt the top of the strut back and try to pry suspension down than pull down the fork that strut is mounted to. I'll report back with results I am so far down with this job that it has to work one way or another 🤣🤣🤣

[Used2be]

Originally Posted by Rafichicago

I believe it's the lower control arm bushing that's bolted to the subframe. I believe that's why Bmw is asking for removal of axle and that control arm if I understood this right. Anyway it seems to be doable without removing them. Seems like prying down with pry bar is a great way since it'll give me control over what's going on with suspension and all the lines that are around it when pushing down. I just bolt the top of the strut back and try to pry suspension down than pull down the fork that strut is mounted to. I'll report back with results I am so far down with this job that it has to work one way or another 🤣🤣🤣

Yes, I think the resistance is the tightness of the bushing once you try to go past normal range of motion of the suspension. You should have the upper bolts for the strut loose but attached so you can pull the strut holder off when you have clearance. You get points for perseverance! It'll work. Yes, keep an eye on wiring and other lines as you're using the pry bar.

[Rafichicago]

Originally Posted by Used2be

Yes, I think the resistance is the tightness of the bushing once you try to go past normal range of motion of the suspension. You should have the upper bolts for the strut loose but attached so you can pull the strut holder off when you have clearance. You get points for perseverance! It'll work. Yes, keep an eye on wiring and other lines as you're using the pry bar.

Ha ha thanks !😂
Perseverance has nothing to do with it. Can't drive the car units current state 😂
Luckily I have others but with me plan on not driving it over Chicago winter I don't have much more time to enjoy it. Deal for the struts though was too good to pass so here it is parked in my garage

[jake169]

Rafichicago You sir are doing what I am sure several on this forum would love to attempt. Please do give a review of how this works out. I have a 2018 M5 with Dinan coilovers and the ride is way better than stock. Although in the near future I would love to switch up the shocks.

[Rafichicago]

So… I've done one side. Than I've done second one…. When I compared the two I have realized that… I've messed up the one I've done first.. Oh well.
Seems like I have made a mistake when I marked it. It's easy to tell since on the side that's done properly bump stop is moving freely. On the opposite side it's hardly any room between the strut and spring. With improper orientation spring is pulling to the wrong side of the strut meaning there is a lot of room one on side and literally no room on the other between the strut and the spring. Is this job easy for someone that had done it at least once ? Absolutely. For everyone else, not an easy task. I am lucky to have a friend to help me with this let's call it "journey" I have learned a lot in the process, that's for sure. If BMW would make a slight cut at the bottom of the strut where rubber part that spring is laying against and same mark on said rubber that would make this job a lot easier. Oh well I will remove strut again and we will change orientation of the spring against the strut. Hopefully my not that great explanation make sense. It will if one would tackle this job.
Round 4 starts tomorrow 😂😂😂

[pbonsalb]

You have the old ones to look at for orientation. When changing springs, before disassembling the strut, I used a sharpie to make some lines.

[Rafichicago]

Success! 🤪

So struts and springs replaced. Test drove the car this morning. Bumps absorption in comfort mode softer but not too soft. It's the way those cars should come from the factory. In sport plus you can literally feel every road imperfection there is. To me it seems like the strut/spring absorption range is much improved over regular 2018-2020 M5. Definitely well with it for people like me that felt that the car is tad to harsh on poor quality roads in comfort mode. I'd like to thank everyone that took its time to reply with any and all help.

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by Rafichicago

Success! 🤪

So struts and springs replaced. Test drove the car this morning. Bumps absorption in comfort mode softer but not too soft. It's the way those cars should come from the factory. In sport plus you can literally feel every road imperfection there is. To me it seems like the strut/spring absorption range is much improved over regular 2018-2020 M5. Definitely well with it for people like me that felt that the car is tad to harsh on poor quality roads in comfort mode. I'd like to thank everyone that took its time to reply with any and all help.

So you're saying you found the base suspension "too harsh" in comfort mode? And the LCI comp suspension is softer than the base suspension?

This doesn't seem right. But to each their own. Glad we finally have an answer as to if they'll bolt up. Next time take some pics and provide a diy to help others in their modifications! Best thing about these forum.

[Rafichicago]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

So you're saying you found the base suspension "too harsh" in comfort mode? And the LCI comp suspension is softer than the base suspension?

This doesn't seem right. But to each their own. Glad we finally have an answer as to if they'll bolt up. Next time take some pics and provide a diy to help others in their modifications! Best thing about these forum.

Pre LCI M5 is tuned differently from LCI M5 that has setup from M8. It's definitely softer in comfort mode than pre LCI M5. It's the fact. New struts are valved differently. Rear springs look differently as well.

[Rup91]

Where did you purchase the LCI suspension components? If you don't mind, can you list all the part numbers you needed to do the swap? I've been waiting for months for someone to do this. Thanks!