[shawnhayes]

Orrrr......

It MIGHT NOT MATTER what "mode" you hold down the "BC" button. Just hold it down after "Diagnostic mode" comes up.

Shawn

[PDOT]

Has anyone run the Carbotech XP-12? I was speaking with the rep and he stated the XP-20 may be a bit to much for the PS4S and Cup 2 Connect

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by PDOT

Has anyone run the Carbotech XP-12? I was speaking with the rep and he stated the XP-20 may be a bit to much for the PS4S and Cup 2 Connect

I've run both on my GT-R, but not on the F-90.

And on track, bullshit. The F-90 is a giant beast that needs a heavy duty pad. Just like my GT-R. Given the XP-20's would be better mated to Hoosiers or Toyo R888's on track, but if you're going to a brake heavy track, nothing wrong with XP-20's on a slightly less sticky tire. Only downside is getting into the ABS will happen easier.

Shawn

[kani179]

ISweep IS1500 all day.

I put them on about a month ago. Zero squealing, no brake dust, and I would say 20% better braking performance imo.

Hit up Ben at RG Sport. He helped me out a great deal.

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by kani179

ISweep IS1500 all day.

I put them on about a month ago. Zero squealing, no brake dust, and I would say 20% better braking performance imo.

Hit up Ben at RG Sport. He helped me out a great deal.

On squealing and dust, ok fine.

But 20% better braking?

I'd bet you a full set of all the way around brake pads no way. It just doesn't work that way. The best brake pads for stops sound like absolute shit and dust terribly - they always have.

But if you think somebody can validate/invalidate this objectively, my wager stands.

Shawn

[Hammer110!]

Originally Posted by shawnhayes

On squealing and dust, ok fine.

But 20% better braking?

I'd bet you a full set of all the way around brake pads no way. It just doesn't work that way. The best brake pads for stops sound like absolute shit and dust terribly - they always have.

But if you think somebody can validate/invalidate this objectively, my wager stands.

Shawn

I concur it’s simple physics and mechanical engineering. A harder pad will dust less but also have a lower coefficient of friction thus less stoping power relative to pedal pressure.

ps loved the VIR vid you posted had me longing for my track days again!! Enjoy

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by Hammer110!

I concur it’s simple physics and mechanical engineering. A harder pad will dust less but also have a lower coefficient of friction thus less stoping power relative to pedal pressure.

ps loved the VIR vid you posted had me longing for my track days again!! Enjoy

Going back in a couple of weeks. Just got the Toyo RR's mounted up, and the front ($1000 retail) pads replaced. Also test fitted my spare metal rotor from my 2018 onto the CCB caliper/hub. Fits fine.

Thank goodness. $16,000 brake job seems....excessive.

Shawn

[Ropes]

Swapped out the Textar pads on my F82 M4 to the EDC yellows and much preferred them. The DOT brake codes were better than OEM at GG vs GF. I can't comment on the feel of them on the F90 because I have CCB.

[nsanity]

So lets say I want more fade resistance over the stock M Perf pads on Steel rotors (2018). Since going stage 3 Carbahn, I can't get up my favourite mountain run without a bit of toasty brakes - then when i go down, it gets a bit soft....

Brakes make noise and dust - whatever, I just want to stop this heavy bish.

Where do we rank things?

RSL29 / M Perf Enduro
MX72
Stock M Perf pads

I know shawnhayes is a fan of RacingBrake ST600's - but not sure where to rank them here.

Re: Fluid wise - I know the gold standard is Castrol SRF - but given the change intervals required, probably looking to go Motul RBF660 as a good interrim.

[pbonsalb]

If you can afford Carbahn Stage 3, you can afford 2L of SRF at $57 a liter every 2 years.

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by Ropes

Swapped out the Textar pads on my F82 M4 to the EDC yellows and much preferred them. The DOT brake codes were better than OEM at GG vs GF. I can't comment on the feel of them on the F90 because I have CCB.

I understand what you're saying, but I have a question...

Did you switch out to EBC yellows on an F82 with CCB's?

Have you checked with EBC to make sure they're carbon ceramic compatible? Some pads will FIT on CCB's and brake, but according to the manufacturers some pads are not suitable for carbon ceramics. I can't work that out in my head, unless they get too hot on the surface, or have a matrix material that can damage the carbon, but they DO say it.

I would at least email EBC to make sure they approve of using that pad on ceramics.

Shawn

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by nsanity

So lets say I want more fade resistance over the stock M Perf pads on Steel rotors (2018). Since going stage 3 Carbahn, I can't get up my favourite mountain run without a bit of toasty brakes - then when i go down, it gets a bit soft....

Brakes make noise and dust - whatever, I just want to stop this heavy bish.

Where do we rank things?

RSL29 / M Perf Enduro
MX72
Stock M Perf pads

I know shawnhayes is a fan of RacingBrake ST600's - but not sure where to rank them here.

Re: Fluid wise - I know the gold standard is Castrol SRF - but given the change intervals required, probably looking to go Motul RBF660 as a good interrim.

The three you have listed are awesome, but I have not been able to find the product number for the RSL29's from Pagid. I do personally like the ST600's, but that's because of how long they last on track. I'd say they're competitive to the list you have put in.

Pagid makes the Stock pads (check them, many of them have the pagid logo and trademark printed right on them).

On the fluid, you might elaborate to help other folks understand why you'd go for the Motul over the Castrol SRF. There ARE some reasons, but I'd like to hear yours.

Shawn

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

If you can afford Carbahn Stage 3, you can afford 2L of SRF at $57 a liter every 2 years.

I'm not sure that's his only reason. Catrol recommends SRF not be mixed with other fluids, and it is NOT hygroscopic. Some even say it's hydrophobic. I don't know about that.

But, what I CAN say is that Castrol recommends SRF be changed (completely) every 18 months. That's not a problem for me, because I need to do a small flush almost every event (and I do it myself). If any water gets into the system, SRF WILL NOT ABSORB IT, and needs to be "bled" out. Regular fluids will absorb the water (right out of the air, honestly), which degrades its vapor resistance.

SRF is a different animal. And, a godsend for us track hounds. I'm not sure I'd put it in my streetcar unless I intended to change it like that.

Shawn

[nsanity]

Originally Posted by shawnhayes

The three you have listed are awesome, but I have not been able to find the product number for the RSL29's from Pagid. I do personally like the ST600's, but that's because of how long they last on track. I'd say they're competitive to the list you have put in.

Yeah, I don't need lap after lap track perf - just heavy duty street driving. Padwise I can find the F10's but i think its a different caliper. The RSL29's (OE'd - I believe they are M Performance Enduro) were listed by an older post here.

Originally Posted by shawnhayes

Pagid makes the Stock pads (check them, many of them have the pagid logo and trademark printed right on them).

Indeed. Feedback i've had is the RSL29's are gonna be noisy on the street - which i'd live with quite happily if required.

Originally Posted by shawnhayes

On the fluid, you might elaborate to help other folks understand why you'd go for the Motul over the Castrol SRF. There ARE some reasons, but I'd like to hear yours.

I've been advised that a lot of Modern ABS pumps arent a big fan of SRF, and largely that SRF in a street car will tend to need to be bled more frequently due to its hydroscopic nature - whereas the Motul whilst not being as effective as SRF, is close whilst being OE friendly across the board.

shawnhayes did you end up swapping the lines? or adding additional ducting?

I found the brakes cooled down pretty quickly - but yeah, definitely lost confidence in the stock arrangement faster than i'd like.

[Ropes]

Originally Posted by shawnhayes

I understand what you're saying, but I have a question...

Did you switch out to EBC yellows on an F82 with CCB's?

Have you checked with EBC to make sure they're carbon ceramic compatible? Some pads will FIT on CCB's and brake, but according to the manufacturers some pads are not suitable for carbon ceramics. I can't work that out in my head, unless they get too hot on the surface, or have a matrix material that can damage the carbon, but they DO say it.

I would at least email EBC to make sure they approve of using that pad on ceramics.

Shawn

I had iron rotors on the M4 and CCB on the M5.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by shawnhayes

I'm not sure that's his only reason. Catrol recommends SRF not be mixed with other fluids, and it is NOT hygroscopic. Some even say it's hydrophobic. I don't know about that.

But, what I CAN say is that Castrol recommends SRF be changed (completely) every 18 months. That's not a problem for me, because I need to do a small flush almost every event (and I do it myself). If any water gets into the system, SRF WILL NOT ABSORB IT, and needs to be "bled" out. Regular fluids will absorb the water (right out of the air, honestly), which degrades its vapor resistance.

SRF is a different animal. And, a godsend for us track hounds. I'm not sure I'd put it in my streetcar unless I intended to change it like that.

Shawn

I have not read anything conclusive on Castrol not being suitable for a street car, such as not being able to handle any moisture or interfering with ABS or causing problems if there is residue of the old fluid. It is still has a higher boiling point when “wet” than any other fluid, is compatible with ABS pumps, and compatible with residue of other fluid but loses a little of its magic.

Yes, it is recommended to be flushed at a shorter interval than stock fluid. I agree it is not the best choice for someone who does not know what they are doing and does not maintain their car properly for the mods they have. I also agree it is not necessary for someone who is not coming anywhere close to boiling stock fluid, which is probably 95% of M5 owners.

https://www.opmustang.com/store/p113...e_Fluid.html#/

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by Ropes

I had iron rotors on the M4 and CCB on the M5.

I see. My bad. I didn't have a good experience with EBC on my EVO years ago. They were great on my Honda. Glad to hear things are better now.

Shawn

[TheCookieMonster]

+1 on the isweeps, had them installed a week ago, so far so good. not as much bite as before, but very close. so far no more squeaks.

[Ropes]

Shawn,

EBC we're not up to the task years ago. The new formulation are nice. If I had irons on the 5, I would have swapped the pads the those. I liked the yellows and the M4 forum like the blues more than the yellows.

[PDOT]

Originally Posted by Ropes

Shawn,

EBC we're not up to the task years ago. The new formulation are nice. If I had irons on the 5, I would have swapped the pads the those. I liked the yellows and the M4 forum like the blues more than the yellows.

EBC Blue on track doesn't hold up. I can tell you from experience

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I have not read anything conclusive on Castrol not being suitable for a street car, such as not being able to handle any moisture or interfering with ABS or causing problems if there is residue of the old fluid. It is still has a higher boiling point when “wet” than any other fluid, is compatible with ABS pumps, and compatible with residue of other fluid but loses a little of its magic.

Yes, it is recommended to be flushed at a shorter interval than stock fluid. I agree it is not the best choice for someone who does not know what they are doing and does not maintain their car properly for the mods they have. I also agree it is not necessary for someone who is not coming anywhere close to boiling stock fluid, which is probably 95% of M5 owners.

https://www.opmustang.com/store/p113...e_Fluid.html#/

It will be fine, if you replace/flush it regularly. But Castrol is VERY specific, even in the Product Data Sheets:

"The properties of this formulation are such
that in order to derive maximum benefit the use of Castrol React SRF Racing should be restricted to
not more than eighteen months before draining and refilling"

https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/4FFC9E28DDFAE514802585BA00487114/$File/WEPP-BS7LMU.pdf

That's why I wouldn't put it in my street car, unless I was going to bleed it that often. I do my track car, but my street car? (Volvo). Not so frequently to replace every 18 months.

Shawn

[pbonsalb]

Even at less than “maximum benefit,” it outperforms other fluids. It’s more a question of whether you need the benefits it offers in your street car and whether you would be willing to change it regularly — even on the normal BMW 2 year spec it would outperform stock fluid. However many M5 owners won’t bother changing brake fluid even at BMW’s 2 year interval.