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      10-24-2020, 06:12 PM   #23
ashmostro
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Do you think more tire (via wider wheels) would even the odds, or still wouldn't be enough to compensate for the weight? I'm fine not being the fastest on the track, but I'd like to be in the top third so I'm not just pointing everyone by and messing up my rhythm.
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      10-24-2020, 06:16 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnhayes View Post
Stock 2018 M5 at VIR. ONLY upgrade is brake system bled with SRF.

Enjoy.



Shawn
Thanks for posting the VIR video, a great track. The two tracks near me in Michigan are Grattan and Gingerman, neither very friendly for a heavy, high horsepower car.

You posted the Eastwood retractor tool, and perhaps you already know this about the EMF actuator, but I ran into this post years ago and it was helpful for me. Post #42 has pictures.

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthr...=634891&page=2
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      10-24-2020, 06:18 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro View Post
Do you think more tire (via wider wheels) would even the odds, or still wouldn't be enough to compensate for the weight? I'm fine not being the fastest on the track, but I'd like to be in the top third so I'm not just pointing everyone by and messing up my rhythm.
Hard to put too much more tire on this beast without fender rolling or flares. I'm 285 square, and my fronts come close to touching the steering knuckle AND the fender on stock height.

if you're getting the competition, you'll be getting the better suspension, so it will do better. Very likely I need the KW of BMW M performance suspension for my track duty.

Lowering might help, but I like the ride height where it is.

Shawn
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      10-24-2020, 06:33 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnhayes View Post
Hard to put too much more tire on this beast without fender rolling or flares. I'm 285 square, and my fronts come close to touching the steering knuckle AND the fender on stock height.
I was surprised with Higgs Boson's post using 295/35-20 on the front and 305/35-20 on the rear. He's on 11" front and 12" rear. I'm on 10" front and 11" rear with 285/30-20 and 305/30-20 Michelin SC2. I will be going to 295/30-20 SC2 for the front. With such a heavy car I think the more rubber the better.

Also, I installed the Dinan HAS on my base model F90 and have liked it for the street. Haven't tracked it yet, but the springs feel more like the stock Comp model. Plus, you can fine tune the height if you wish.

https://f90.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1759732
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      10-24-2020, 06:33 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Used2be View Post
Thanks for posting the VIR video, a great track. The two tracks near me in Michigan are Grattan and Gingerman, neither very friendly for a heavy, high horsepower car.

You posted the Eastwood retractor tool, and perhaps you already know this about the EMF actuator, but I ran into this post years ago and it was helpful for me. Post #42 has pictures.

https://f10.5post.com/forums/showthr...=634891&page=2
Thank you. I have been using this procedure already, I have had to replace the rear pads THREE TIMES because of the inadequacy of the pad to track use. And, I don't fully turn DSC off, so the system does eat rear pads I'm afraid.

But, the last time I had to do it, I had to do it at the track between sessions. I thought "there has to be a better way".

I think this tool will do the job, but of course the question is whether it will wind the motor/piston properly without removing the motor.

Shawn
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      10-24-2020, 06:40 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnhayes View Post
I think this tool will do the job, but of course the question is whether it will wind the motor/piston properly without removing the motor.

Shawn
I don't think it will do anything for the electronic adjustment part of a pad replacement. It will only push them back to where the last setting of the worn pads was. I think manually turning the adjuster back is necessary. Or, perhaps some sort of coding electronically that a service tech might know of?
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      10-24-2020, 06:42 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Used2be View Post
I was surprised with Higgs Boson's post using 295/35-20 on the front and 305/35-20 on the rear. He's on 11" front and 12" rear. I'm on 10" front and 11" rear with 285/30-20 and 305/30-20 Michelin SC2. I will be going to 295/30-20 SC2 for the front. With such a heavy car I think the more rubber the better.

Also, I installed the Dinan HAS on my base model F90 and have liked it for the street. Haven't tracked it yet, but the springs feel more like the stock Comp model. Plus, you can fine tune the height if you wish.

https://f90.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1759732
My guess is the 11" wheel properly spaced pulls the edge of the tire away from the steering knuckle. My 285/35R20's on 10" square wheels with Toyo RR's brush the uprights. I put on a 5mm spacer to stop that from happening. It seems JUST ENOUGH to keep it away.

My wheels are far from standard, as they are square. And the Toyo RR's have a pretty big sidewall, which is what touches. So, each fitment is unique.

Shawn
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      10-24-2020, 06:44 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Used2be View Post
I don't think it will do anything for the electronic adjustment part of a pad replacement. It will only push them back to where the last setting of the worn pads was. I think manually turning the adjuster back is necessary. Or, perhaps some sort of coding electronically that a service tech might know of?
The tool rotates the piston. The disassembly of the motor and the rotation of the adjuster with the torx bit does the same thing, but FROM THE OTHER SIDE. It should be the same thing....should. I haven't done it myself, but, if a picture is worth a thousand words, how much is this worth?



Shawn
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      10-24-2020, 06:49 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnhayes View Post
The tool rotates the piston. The disassembly of the motor and the rotation of the adjuster with the torx bit does the same thing, but FROM THE OTHER SIDE. It should be the same thing....should. I haven't done it myself, but, if a picture is worth a thousand words, how much is this worth?
Shawn
Sweet!! I didn't realize exactly what the tool did! I will look into that also, thank you.
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      10-24-2020, 06:52 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Used2be View Post
Sweet!! I didn't realize exactly what the tool did! I will look into that also, thank you.
I haven't done it yet, but conceptually it should be the same thing. Rotating the piston from the other side should be able to wind the caliper. I haven't worked out the "handedness" in my head yet, but having tried to compress that piston manually without winding the actuator it will be READILY apparent when I'm using the tool. That adjuster put up a LOT of resistance and was very sturdy. If winding that tool clockwise EXTENDS the piston, I'll know right away. But the video is pretty clear isn't it?

Shawn
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      10-24-2020, 07:00 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnhayes View Post
If winding that tool clockwise EXTENDS the piston, I'll know right away. But the video is pretty clear isn't it?
Shawn
Yes, good video. The only thing that comes to mind is rotating the piston and what that might do to the seal? I don't know how many full rotations it will take from a fully worn pad (like I saw on one of your posts...down to the metal!) setting to allow a fully thick new pad to be installed, but the bore is smooth, it shouldn't damage it.
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      10-24-2020, 07:20 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Used2be View Post
Yes, good video. The only thing that comes to mind is rotating the piston and what that might do to the seal? I don't know how many full rotations it will take from a fully worn pad (like I saw on one of your posts...down to the metal!) setting to allow a fully thick new pad to be installed, but the bore is smooth, it shouldn't damage it.
The parking brake extends the piston by winding and unwinding. I don't know if it rotates the piston when winding, but it COULD, one would think. The seal isn't "tight" enough to prevent rotation (can't be, if it was it couldn't extend and retract). Plus, seals are easy to replace, honestly.

Shawn
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      10-24-2020, 07:28 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnhayes View Post
The parking brake extends the piston by winding and unwinding. I don't know if it rotates the piston when winding, but it COULD, one would think. The seal isn't "tight" enough to prevent rotation (can't be, if it was it couldn't extend and retract). Plus, seals are easy to replace, honestly.

Shawn
It must rotate the piston when applied, but that's only in small increments of degrees each time. The replacement of the pads will be many rotations i assume. I'm not worried, the lip of the seal in the smooth bore should be fine with rotations.

I keep thinking in terms of hydraulic actuation, in and out, rather than a small electric motor turning things, funny.
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      10-26-2020, 06:15 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnhayes View Post
Stock 2018 M5 at VIR. ONLY upgrade is brake system bled with SRF.

Enjoy.



Shawn
VIR is my home track - had my F90 out there in Feb. What kind of times were you running in Full?

(I didn't track my times as I'm normally driving my Viper.) I did hit 163 mph before hammering the brakes on the back stretch and was able to stay in front of C7 Z06's. It was awesome.

Brakes with street driving are very grabby (initial bite) but on the track they felt pretty squishy. Applying more brake force helped but not confidence inspiring. The Michelins also jumped 10 -11 psi after 3 laps - then only got worse (greasy).

Would love to run out there with some real brake pads and some Hoosiers!
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      11-07-2020, 04:01 PM   #37
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New track pads tested. Great braking, and great endurance. So far better than stock.

I ALSO think they are less noisy than the stock pads. But I don't really care so long as they brake well.

Details coming as soon as the manufacturer lets me.

Shawn
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      11-07-2020, 08:30 PM   #38
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Pure track, or so-called hybrids?
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      11-08-2020, 01:02 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro View Post
Pure track, or so-called hybrids?
A pretty aggressive compound. Not metal on metal squeal like I'm used to, but better than the stockers. Fade is less. Wear is less. I have to gauge the noise on the way home since I finally have a nice pretty blue transfer layer

Shawn
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      11-08-2020, 01:10 PM   #40
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Yep, agreed with last bit.

Given the obnoxious rear calipers on this car that make pad swaps more than just a simple matter, I’m particularly interested in any pads that can passably serve double duty.

Thanks for the updates!
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      12-27-2020, 05:59 PM   #41
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Have now used the RacingBrake pads on track. Superb wear. They have now made some additional compounds, and are working on rotors. I highly recommend this company. I have a lot of experience with them from my Nissan GT-R with tons of track use.

Pads:
https://racingbrake.com/f90-2018/

Working on Rotors:
https://racingbrake.com/m5-m6-1/

I have to tell you, the pads and rotors this company made were HEAD and HEELS above the stock Nissan stuff. The front rotors I have tested already are MUCH, MUCH better than the stock pads. I think I'll have more to say as I get more pads and they get those rotors ready. My rears are looking BAD.

Shawn
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      12-27-2020, 06:13 PM   #42
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This is super cool news Shawn. Thank you for paving the way for the rest of us.

I’m glad to see they are working on rotors too. I’ve used theirs in the past and had great results with them.

Do you know if RB recommends either new rotors, or removal of previous transfer layer in order for these to work? In my experience, it’s not necessary with track pads if you first drive on the street for a week and let them “polish” the rotors on their own. Let me know if this is something that was discussed.

Thanks again.
-Ash
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      12-27-2020, 06:16 PM   #43
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Just looked at the link for the pads. Those look like street pads, per the description. Will there be another product drop for track use, still coming up?
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      01-03-2021, 07:46 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashmostro View Post
This is super cool news Shawn. Thank you for paving the way for the rest of us.

I’m glad to see they are working on rotors too. I’ve used theirs in the past and had great results with them.

Do you know if RB recommends either new rotors, or removal of previous transfer layer in order for these to work? In my experience, it’s not necessary with track pads if you first drive on the street for a week and let them “polish” the rotors on their own. Let me know if this is something that was discussed.

Thanks again.
-Ash
RB has always recommended a "break in" for me.

I have never done it. Everything has always been fine. I think it's for people who are inexperienced with new pads, and the fact that the braking can be unexpectedly crap for the first five applications or not.

Shawn
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