[Danny D]

Originally Posted by CFoote

It drives me crazy the entire iDrive/stereo system stays on when I press the start/stop button, and I'm usually quick to open the door so it doesn't shut off, so I have to open/close the door again to get the system to shut down.

Chris

Hey Chris, Here is a tip, hold the power button on the stereo for a few seconds when you power down the car, everything will turn off before you even open the door.

[Demon Barber]

Originally Posted by CFoote

I'm afraid the cost of the battery is part of owning these very expensive cars.

I know that modules can wreak havoc with low voltage and can potentially even damage some modules. What I will do, and probably what many other owners should do is invest in a load tester and that will help determine at what point the battery should be replaced.

Like you, I certainly don't wish to dish out big money on a battery but I also respect the engineering and design that went into the car. so I won't short-change any parts on this car or any of my cars.

So perhaps load testing the battery with a tester available online would help folks in determining when to do it. Unfortunately I've had a few batteries, despite constant trickle charging, just "go" and a charge is no longer maintained. Those are the tough days running around for a few hours getting the battery swapped out.

I like this idea. Any particular testers out there that have a reliable reputation? I have no experience with battery testing, AGM or lithium.

[CFoote]

Originally Posted by Danny D

Hey Chris, Here is a tip, hold the power button on the stereo for a few seconds when you power down the car, everything will turn off before you even open the door.

THANK YOU!!! Had no idea!

[CFoote]

Originally Posted by Demon Barber

I like this idea. Any particular testers out there that have a reliable reputation? I have no experience with battery testing, AGM or lithium.

Schumacher has been around for decades and it has decent reviews. I don't think this is something you have to go super high end with.

https://smile.amazon.com/Schumacher-...ps%2C61&sr=8-9

Chris

[pbonsalb]

That is not a load tester.

[Demon Barber]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

That is not a load tester.

Any good quality load testers you would recommend? I'd love to be able to check battery health.

[pbonsalb]

I have a cheap hand held analog “toaster” but I am sure there are big fancy digital ones. I don’t know whether testing lithium batteries is any different from lead acid batteries.

Out of curiosity, I just did a quick search and maybe the traditional load tester won’t work on the lithium battery. Perhaps all you can do without very expensive equipment is use one of those digital battery analyzers like cfoote linked. They don’t test load directly but maybe indirect is good enough.

[AHall]

Originally Posted by Aronis

My RS6 battery lasted 9 years and 132000 miles. New one was $214 in 2012.

My lawn tractor battery lasted 19 years. Lmao

Mike

Hello Mike,

I have a question. Since you have been using a trickle charger, I am wondering why you would have a failure that I would consider an early failure for a lithium ion battery. Any ideas? I considered a trickle charger but this definitely has raised a question in my mind.

[Alberta]

Originally Posted by AHall

Hello Mike,

I have a question. Since you have been using a trickle charger, I am wondering why you would have a failure that I would consider an early failure for a lithium ion battery. Any ideas? I considered a trickle charger but this definitely has raised a question in my mind.

He used a non lithium-ion charger for a while, which could've damaged the battery.

I'm using a trickle charger for almost a year now, and the LED indicator shows that the battery is fully charged and I never had a warning signal regarding the battery being low.

I'm not driving my car for short drives, it probably helps.

[Aronis]

Originally Posted by Can-am

He used a non lithium-ion charger for a while, which could've damaged the battery.

Begin RANT.

I used a non-lithium trickle charger ONCE. I used it ONCE. Last winter. And was AFTER THE ()*&^&*(^( BATTERY GAVE ME THE )&*()(&*()*& WARNING ABOUT "BATTERY MAINTENANCE. SO GET THE ()*^()&* OFF YOUR HIGH HORSE AND SHOVE IT UP ()&*)*&()&*

I recommend, and SO THE DOES BMW based on the service manual, that the battery be charged fully now and then, with a Lithium ION charger. This should have been made VERY clear when the car was purchased. Now that I will have a new battery that will be my routine.

As far as this being an 'early' failure, it looks like the AUDI DRC system all over again. My RS6 was the first to be reported to fail, I got all sorts of fan boy (&*)*& from other RS6 drivers and then one after the other virtually EVERY RS6 had that system fail. Then in the RS4 also. And Audi still offered that system in the TTRS and RS7. It was an engineering error in their design. And they all fail. The recall replacement failed. The same goes for the use of a LI battery in a car. This was a new thing for BMW. And they have failed in that concept. The car's systems know enough to cut power to other systems when the battery gets low but only warns the ()*&*&)(* driver after further drop in voltage. Dumb dumb dumb.

I can't wait to see all the crow eating as one after the other batteries drop dead at "just 4 years." At least I am buying one of the few remaining LI batteries available in the US.

End RANT.

There I feel better.

And I have been selling a bunch of un-used lawn equipment, a couple old Xbox's and monitors, and the that battery is paid for LOLOLOLOL

Mike

[Aronis]

Originally Posted by AHall

Hello Mike,

I have a question. Since you have been using a trickle charger, I am wondering why you would have a failure that I would consider an early failure for a lithium ion battery. Any ideas? I considered a trickle charger but this definitely has raised a question in my mind.

I got the message last winter. (Fall really) I had not been driving the M5 much over the summer because I got my Boxster. So when I got in the car, I saw the message "Start car, Battery Maintenance" The car started. I noted it and when it happened again, I charge the battery, using a Ctek MXS 5.0. YES THE WRONG ()&*()*& ONE FOR LITHIUM ION BATTERY AS CAM CAN'T SEEM TO LET GO. I BOUGHT THE CTEK LITHIUM that week and used that since.

My comfort access was not working and it turned out it was 1. the battery low in the car AND 2. the battery in the key fob. I cannot tell if the rear window defroster was out, but likely it was also as that is part of the 'save the battery, without telling the driver' method the jack ass engineers in Chermany came up with. The car has 100000 computers but not a )(*&)*& volt's meter. Dumb Dumb Dumb.

Get a charger, use it. Then the LI battery should last '8 years' maybe.


Mike

[Alberta]

Originally Posted by Aronis

Begin RANT.

I used a non-lithium trickle charger ONCE. I used it ONCE. Last winter. And was AFTER THE ()*&^&*(^( BATTERY GAVE ME THE )&*()(&*()*& WARNING ABOUT "BATTERY MAINTENANCE. SO GET THE ()*^()&* OFF YOUR HIGH HORSE AND SHOVE IT UP ()&*)*&()&*

I recommend, and SO THE DOES BMW based on the service manual, that the battery be charged fully now and then, with a Lithium ION charger. This should have been made VERY clear when the car was purchased. Now that I will have a new battery that will be my routine.

As far as this being an 'early' failure, it looks like the AUDI DRC system all over again. My RS6 was the first to be reported to fail, I got all sorts of fan boy (&*)*& from other RS6 drivers and then one after the other virtually EVERY RS6 had that system fail. Then in the RS4 also. And Audi still offered that system in the TTRS and RS7. It was an engineering error in their design. And they all fail. The recall replacement failed. The same goes for the use of a LI battery in a car. This was a new thing for BMW. And they have failed in that concept. The car's systems know enough to cut power to other systems when the battery gets low but only warns the ()*&*&)(* driver after further drop in voltage. Dumb dumb dumb.

I can't wait to see all the crow eating as one after the other batteries drop dead at "just 4 years." At least I am buying one of the few remaining LI batteries available in the US.

End RANT.

There I feel better.

And I have been selling a bunch of un-used lawn equipment, a couple old Xbox's and monitors, and the that battery is paid for LOLOLOLOL

Mike

I'm always amazed to see how you manage to make yourself stupid in public...

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by Aronis

I got the message last winter. (Fall really) I had not been driving the M5 much over the summer because I got my Boxster. So when I got in the car, I saw the message "Start car, Battery Maintenance" The car started. I noted it and when it happened again, I charge the battery, using a Ctek MXS 5.0. YES THE WRONG ()&*()*& ONE FOR LITHIUM ION BATTERY AS CAM CAN'T SEEM TO LET GO. I BOUGHT THE CTEK LITHIUM that week and used that since.

My comfort access was not working and it turned out it was 1. the battery low in the car AND 2. the battery in the key fob. I cannot tell if the rear window defroster was out, but likely it was also as that is part of the 'save the battery, without telling the driver' method the jack ass engineers in Chermany came up with. The car has 100000 computers but not a )(*&)*& volt's meter. Dumb Dumb Dumb.

Get a charger, use it. Then the LI battery should last '8 years' maybe.


Mike

This is good info, thank you. I too used a non Li-ION CTEK charger at the start since nothing and noone ever stated this had one until it randomly popped up on the forum. so since i have bought the correct charger that does both to charge my X5 and M5.

I also installed a CTEK bluetooth battery voltage meter for both cars and every time i get in them i can check the voltage, temp, etc and see if that has changed over time.

[AHall]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

This is good info, thank you. I too used a non Li-ION CTEK charger at the start since nothing and noone ever stated this had one until it randomly popped up on the forum. so since i have bought the correct charger that does both to charge my X5 and M5.

I also installed a CTEK bluetooth battery voltage meter for both cars and every time i get in them i can check the voltage, temp, etc and see if that has changed over time.

So are you using a lithium and non-lithium battery charger?

[Aronis]

Originally Posted by AHall

So are you using a lithium and non-lithium battery charger?

Are you Cam's Twin? LOL. I have a Lithium Ion Charger for the M5 and a non lithium ion charger for the Boxster.



Mike

[Aronis]

Originally Posted by Can-am

I'm always amazed to see how you manage to make yourself stupid in public...

You're such a nice guy.

Mike

[AHall]

Originally Posted by Aronis

Are you Cam's Twin? LOL. I have a Lithium Ion Charger for the M5 and a non lithium ion charger for the Boxster.



Mike

LOL, I remember what you have, but I am asking Maverick what he has, Cam Jr. :

[Maniax]

The CTEK Bluetooth battery voltage meter are for lead batteries according to their website specs and manual, and would NOT give an accurate reading for lithium ion batteries as they are different chemistry and thus is measured differently (resistance, voltage etc.).

Originally Posted by Maverik259

This is good info, thank you. I too used a non Li-ION CTEK charger at the start since nothing and noone ever stated this had one until it randomly popped up on the forum. so since i have bought the correct charger that does both to charge my X5 and M5.

I also installed a CTEK bluetooth battery voltage meter for both cars and every time i get in them i can check the voltage, temp, etc and see if that has changed over time.

[Aronis]

This potentially could be a really issue for long term function of this car. The car seems built around this electrical system which is designed to work with the LI battery. So a swap to an AGM battery is not apparently possible. Perhaps. Can-am (who knows all) can tell us?

Mike

[Used2be]

Originally Posted by Aronis

The car seems built around this electrical system which is designed to work with the LI battery.

Mike

I agree, the car is a computer that seems to be awake at all times.

Antigravity Batteries, a company in Los Angeles, has both a lead/acid version and a Li/ion version battery tracker using Bluetooth to your phone. Worth a look at only $36.

Looking through the general vehicle electronics in the F90 complete vehicle .pdf on page 131, it mentions the battery supervision circuits (BUE) check state of charge, battery condition, battery capacity, and data memory for battery information. I’ve never used ISTA or even Bimmercode, but perhaps the car has that info stored somewhere for some period of time? Would it be accessible to someone who knew how to get to it? The Antigravity site says their tracker stores data for 31 days, maybe BMW does the same thing?

Just chatted with customer service at Antigravity. The leads for the battery tracker are 17" terminal to terminal. I was worried our batteries might be too large for how small the tracker is. Our batteries are about 12" wide, so it should be fine.

[Aronis]

From Service Manual.....

Don't let your M5 sit. I don't know which BMW cars have the LI battery but I think the battery would last much longer if it's kept charged. Lesson learned. Pass it on. I was less concerned with my other cars because the batteries are not $2000 and are actually available.


"Battery recharging intervals for booth vehicles, battery charging calendars and battery tags (12-V battery, high-voltage battery unit)
All models Situation:
Due to the self-discharging of the vehicle battery (12 V battery, high-voltage battery unit) and vehicle standby current (if the vehicle battery was not disconnected from the vehicle electrical system), the vehicle battery is discharged slowly, but continuously.
If the vehicle battery is not recharged for an extended period of time, it will be damaged. This will result in a premature battery failure.
To maintain the quality of the vehicle battery in standing vehicles, it is necessary to recharge this vehicle battery regularly.
Recharging intervals:
12V battery
All vehicles:
12-V battery connected to the vehicle electrical system:
6 weeks
All vehicles without BMW i and Plug-in Hybrid (PHEV):
Continuous disconnection of the 12-V battery from the vehicle electrical system by removal of the ground cable to the 12 V battery or by switching off of the fitted battery master switch, if installed: 12 weeks
Measure: Procedure:...."

[Aronis]

Originally Posted by Used2be

Looking through the general vehicle electronics in the F90 complete vehicle .pdf on page 131, it mentions the battery supervision circuits (BUE) check state of charge, battery condition, battery capacity, and data memory for battery information. I’ve never used ISTA or even Bimmercode, but perhaps the car has that info stored somewhere for some period of time? Would it be accessible to someone who knew how to get to it? The Antigravity site says their tracker stores data for 31 days, maybe BMW does the same thing?

With similar information I asked the service rep that question :Connect o the computer and see what it says. He did not seem to understand that was a possibility. I may go to Albany service dealer I have had better experience there. Keller BMW.

I have an indy mechanic who has all the tech to check it out, but I don't like to abuse our friendship. I'll have to reach out to him. I sent my copy of the Foxwell 530 back as it did not work for me. I don't think my other scanner can do that scan. I'll have to check again.


Mike