[m_fife]

Originally Posted by Aronis

Bought all the supplies from FCPEuro. What is with their INSANE warranty?...I return the oil and filter (engine oil and diff oil etc) and pay the return shipping and they send a new setup for free? WHAT THE HELL? It's real. But it's insane. LMAO

Mike

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/5-8...arwrench-80546

I get everything from FCP. Not sure how it is a sustainable business model, but I'm not complaining.

[Aronis]

My box of stuff arrived today...going service in a few weeks. On fence about doing the differentials as the car only has 39k miles. But oil/filter/air filter/carbon filter.....will be enough 'fun.'

Mike

[Demon Barber]

I just did front diff, rear diff, transfer case, and transmission fluid changes last night. 30k miles. Wasn't bad at all. Requires some extra tools like a fluid transfer pump and vacuum extractor, as well as a scan tool to read transmission temperature, but I was surprised how easy it was to access everything.

[Aronis]

Originally Posted by Demon Barber

I just did front diff, rear diff, transfer case, and transmission fluid changes last night. 30k miles. Wasn't bad at all. Requires some extra tools like a fluid transfer pump and vacuum extractor, as well as a scan tool to read transmission temperature, but I was surprised how easy it was to access everything.

Which Scan tool did you use? Foxwell BONED ME.

Mike

[Demon Barber]

I used a foxwell scanner. What happened with your foxwell?

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by Demon Barber

I just did front diff, rear diff, transfer case, and transmission fluid changes last night. 30k miles. Wasn't bad at all. Requires some extra tools like a fluid transfer pump and vacuum extractor, as well as a scan tool to read transmission temperature, but I was surprised how easy it was to access everything.

Curious why you did trans at 30k miles? 50-60k for the ZF is where I usually start thinking of it. Pretty sure that's what ZF says as well

[Demon Barber]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

Curious why you did trans at 30k miles? 50-60k for the ZF is where I usually start thinking of it. Pretty sure that's what ZF says as well

You're right, it's way earlier than recommended, just being extra cautious since this one is going to be with me a long time. I was surprised at how many fine metal shavings were coated on the bottom of the pan and attached to the magnets on the filter. I went ahead and changed the transmission filter, gasket, and pan bolts. Fluid was substantially darker than the ZF lifeguard 8 fluid replacing it, but that certainly doesn't mean it wasn't still doing its job. Just babying this car.

[Aronis]

Originally Posted by Demon Barber

I used a foxwell scanner. What happened with your foxwell?

Bought the NT530. Did not work. Sent it back. It read the temp as 0.00 C. Could not get it to read correctly. Perhaps my car is FUBAR?

Mike

[Demon Barber]

I'm sure it's the scanner not your car. Foxwell scanners are kind of crap, but they're about all I can find. I have the gt90max which works but is finicky and expensive. As long as you follow the ZF fluid change procedure, the temperature will be between 30 and 50 centigrade as long as you're not doing it on a super cold or hot day and the car is completely cold when you start.

[Aronis]

Originally Posted by Demon Barber

I'm sure it's the scanner not your car. Foxwell scanners are kind of crap, but they're about all I can find. I have the gt90max which works but is finicky and expensive. As long as you follow the ZF fluid change procedure, the temperature will be between 30 and 50 centigrade as long as you're not doing it on a super cold or hot day and the car is completely cold when you start.

Drove for about 30 minutes, parked car in Heated garage, put on lift, did oil service about 1 hour later by the time I got set up. so the fluid was at lease 68 degrees as my garage was at 70.

Mike

[TimmyBHGM5]

Originally Posted by Demon Barber

Rear diff requires exactly 1 liter of Hypoid G4 fluid, part number 83-22-2-447-362. Apparently, filling to the edge of the fill plug would be overfilling. I plan on doing my front and rear diff, transfer case, and transmission fluid changes myself this spring. Already purchased all the materials.

Is there any harm for overfilling the fluid? By filling to the edge of the fill plug?

[micvite]

Originally Posted by TimmyBHGM5

Is there any harm for overfilling the fluid? By filling to the edge of the fill plug?

Same harm as overfilling your bathtub, it's gonna leak, and could have other issues too.

[pbonsalb]

In the old days, it was fill to the bottom of the fill hole. I have not seen the instructions, but assume it is now a specified quantity.

[Aronis]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

In the old days, it was fill to the bottom of the fill hole. I have not seen the instructions, but assume it is now a specified quantity.

Yes, listed above.....if I recall 600 ml in front and 1000 ml in rear, but don't quote this line, check above.

[Demon Barber]

Originally Posted by Aronis

you appear to be correct but the bulletin is contradictory.

I have the G4 and plan on using that for the rear. I am getting other materials together. The transfer case is much more involved though, as per the PDF you need to disconnect the drive shaft to have access to the drain plug. Nice design.

Mike

I'm a little late seeing this, but I was amazed I could access the transfer case to change the fluid without having to remove the drive shaft or the support bracket. I'm pretty sure I was just using a hex head socket with an extension and a socket wrench. Much easier for the M5 than an E90 3 series, for example.

[Aronis]

Originally Posted by Demon Barber

I'm a little late seeing this, but I was amazed I could access the transfer case to change the fluid without having to remove the drive shaft or the support bracket. I'm pretty sure I was just using a hex head socket with an extension and a socket wrench. Much easier for the M5 than an E90 3 series, for example.

I did it following the BMW manual, but I agree that plug is fully accessible without removing a darn thing. The key is having a proper piece of thin enough and properly bent tubing to get into the bottom of the case to remove the fluid and having the proper software to cycle the solenoids in the transferase. It would have been a darn shame to put the drain plug on the lowest point. You know "engineering." Otherwise it's a 20 minute job including putting the car up and down from a lift. On the ground it's more work LOL.

Mike

[micvite]

Originally Posted by Aronis

I did it following the BMW manual, but I agree that plug is fully accessible without removing a darn thing. The key is having a proper piece of thin enough and properly bent tubing to get into the bottom of the case to remove the fluid and having the proper software to cycle the solenoids in the transferase. It would have been a darn shame to put the drain plug on the lowest point. You know "engineering." Otherwise it's a 20 minute job including putting the car up and down from a lift. On the ground it's more work LOL.

Mike

How would bmw make their 150$ for doing a fluid change then?🤣🤣 but honestly that's just one of those services where imma let the dealer figure it out. It's not worth 150$ for me to try pumping this stuff out when the dealership has special tools for it.

[Aronis]

DIY is half the fun, the other half is driving this beast.

and are you sure the dealer will put the proper volume in or just "fill until it runs out?" Because BMW very specifically warns against this. Trust but verify.

Mike

[micvite]

Originally Posted by Aronis

DIY is half the fun, the other half is driving this beast.

and are you sure the dealer will put the proper volume in or just "fill until it runs out?" Because BMW very specifically warns against this. Trust but verify.

Mike

Fair enough, but any potential damage is now on bmw/the dealer since they're the ones that did the service, whether overfilled or undefiled. Same reason why until I get my engine tick documented and some other stuff I'm not putting the 2oil changes I did on the service record, that way I can say "you guys did whatever you did, I ain't touch shit" in case say something went wrong or the fact that the oil filter cap on my car says 40Nm instead of the normal 25 and say the housing gets stripped. It's one of those things that if you do it yourself and God forbid you mess up or by some miracle it just blows randomly after you did it? Well now they can argue whatever u did was the cause and not warranty it for example.

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by micvite

How would bmw make their 150$ for doing a fluid change then?🤣🤣 but honestly that's just one of those services where imma let the dealer figure it out. It's not worth 150$ for me to try pumping this stuff out when the dealership has special tools for it.

I'm Surprised all they would want is $150. Damn alignment costs $225 and the machine does most the work lol.

[BobsM3Coupe]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

I'm Surprised all they would want is $150. Damn alignment costs $225 and the machine does most the work lol.

Have you seen what a Hunter alignment rack costs? They have to make the monthly payments on it.

[Demon Barber]

Originally Posted by Aronis

DIY is half the fun, the other half is driving this beast.

and are you sure the dealer will put the proper volume in or just "fill until it runs out?" Because BMW very specifically warns against this. Trust but verify.

Mike

I'm with Mike on this. If they fuck it up they'll find a way to blame it on your driving or the parts, not their mistakes. I love doing this kind of shit myself because I know for damn sure it was done exactly to spec. There's something so satisfying about it, especially after you've seen what some some of the shitbird 17 year old "techs" have done to these $125k cars they know nothing about.