[NCRob]

One thing I unequivocally notice when switching from plus to sport is that the exhaust pops and bangs all but disappear (MPE, D3, secondary downpipes, charcoal delete with Bms filters, Dinan turbo inlets, Green exhaust button on) but I’m not so sure if I am feeling anything else really nor trust myself in absence of draggy or some other quantifying mechanism at work. So, is there anything else going on performance wise with, HP, boost, torque, throttle, etc? Or is the exhaust note the only variable between the 2 settings?

[pmsteinm]

Throttle response is different. But you still get the same power in all modes. I also only get pops in Sport+ and D or S3 with the exhaust button on.

In sport it increases cooling vs comfort mode. You will see the water temp drop initially and stay low or come back up depending on temperature and what you are doing. I think sport+ is the same cooling mode.

[fullsmoke]

How is cooling increased? I guess I need to pay attention to the water temp next time I change modes.

[pmsteinm]

The map controlled thermostat opens up for the high temperature coolant circuit. I'll see my coolant temp go from the middle to almost down to the 1/4 mark, then it slowly climbs back up if I keep playing. The oil temp doesn't change.

I don't think I've seen it documented anywhere other than this in the S63TU manual:

"In addition, an electric heater in the map thermostat can be used to make the thermostat open at a lower coolant temperature."

[pmsteinm]

Actually, I read above it says to refer to the N55 doc. It has a decent write-up on this. Presumably something similar is still used today:

Engine cooling
The engine cooling system utilizes an electric coolant pump. The heat management
determines the current cooling requirement and controls the cooling system accordingly.
Under certain circumstances, the coolant pump can be completely switched off, e.g. to
rapidly heat up the coolant during the warm-up phase. The coolant pump continues to
operate when the hot engine is shut down. The coolant capacity can therefore be varied
regardless of the engine speed. In addition to the characteristic map thermostat, the heat
management makes it possible to use various characteristic maps for controlling the
coolant pump. In this way the engine control unit can adapt the engine temperature to
the driving conditions.
The engine control unit regulates the following temperature ranges:
• 108°C/226°F = Economy mode
• 104°C/219°F = Normal mode
• 95°C/203°F = High mode
• 90°C/194°F = High mode and control with characteristic map thermostat
The engine management sets a higher temperature (108°C) when, based on vehicle
operation, the engine control unit detects ”Economy” mode. The engine is operated with
relatively low fuel requirements in this temperature range. The internal engine friction is
reduced at higher temperatures. The increase in temperature therefore results in low fuel
consumption in the low load range. The driver wishes to utilize the optimum power developed
by the engine in “High and control with characteristic map thermostat” mode. For
this purpose, the temperature in the cylinder head is reduced to 90°C. This temperature
reduction promotes improved volumetric efficiency, thus resulting in an increased engine
torque. Adapted to the relevant driving situation, the engine control unit can now regulate
a defined operating range. In this way it is possible to influence the fuel consumption and
power output through the cooling system.

[Redacre]

The fan activation in sport plus was a thing on the F8X too. It feels like in the F90 the fans are always going hard regardless of mode because this things runs so hot all the time.

[fullsmoke]

Originally Posted by pmsteinm

Actually, I read above it says to refer to the N55 doc. It has a decent write-up on this. Presumably something similar is still used today:

Engine cooling
The engine cooling system utilizes an electric coolant pump. The heat management
determines the current cooling requirement and controls the cooling system accordingly.
Under certain circumstances, the coolant pump can be completely switched off, e.g. to
rapidly heat up the coolant during the warm-up phase. The coolant pump continues to
operate when the hot engine is shut down. The coolant capacity can therefore be varied
regardless of the engine speed. In addition to the characteristic map thermostat, the heat
management makes it possible to use various characteristic maps for controlling the
coolant pump. In this way the engine control unit can adapt the engine temperature to
the driving conditions.
The engine control unit regulates the following temperature ranges:
• 108°C/226°F = Economy mode
• 104°C/219°F = Normal mode
• 95°C/203°F = High mode
• 90°C/194°F = High mode and control with characteristic map thermostat
The engine management sets a higher temperature (108°C) when, based on vehicle
operation, the engine control unit detects ”Economy” mode. The engine is operated with
relatively low fuel requirements in this temperature range. The internal engine friction is
reduced at higher temperatures. The increase in temperature therefore results in low fuel
consumption in the low load range. The driver wishes to utilize the optimum power developed
by the engine in “High and control with characteristic map thermostat” mode. For
this purpose, the temperature in the cylinder head is reduced to 90°C. This temperature
reduction promotes improved volumetric efficiency, thus resulting in an increased engine
torque. Adapted to the relevant driving situation, the engine control unit can now regulate
a defined operating range. In this way it is possible to influence the fuel consumption and
power output through the cooling system.

Good info! Thanks!

[NCRob]

[QUOTE=pmsteinm;30965258]Throttle response is different. But you still get the same power in all modes. I also only get pops in Sport+ and D or S3 with the exhaust button on.

Hmm, as someone who really doesn’t care for the pops and bangs but wants the max of everything else, I wonder now if it makes sense to pull my old racechip XLR I had on my X5 out of storage and try it on the lower settings for M5 to make up that throttle response delta from dropping down to regular sport. . .

[pmsteinm]

Originally Posted by NCRob

Hmm, as someone who really doesn’t care for the pops and bangs but wants the max of everything else, I wonder now if it makes sense to pull my old racechip XLR I had on my X5 out of storage and try it on the lower settings for M5 to make up that throttle response delta from dropping down to regular sport. . .

You could just press the exhaust button. Yes you loose some fake ASD noise but otherwise nothing changes. The flaps will still open when needed for performance.

Also I don't think the difference between sport and sport+ is that much. I am still playing around with my M button settings even after a year and have started using sport more. You get some sound but no pops, and it feels a bit more linear that comfort. Sport plus in D or S2 doesn't seem that different from sport in the same transmission modes.

[Justao]

Originally Posted by pmsteinm

You could just press the exhaust button. Yes you loose some fake ASD noise but otherwise nothing changes. The flaps will still open when needed for performance.

Also I don't think the difference between sport and sport+ is that much. I am still playing around with my M button settings even after a year and have started using sport more. You get some sound but no pops, and it feels a bit more linear that comfort. Sport plus in D or S2 doesn't seem that different from sport in the same transmission modes.

Sport setting eliminates all the burbles and pops n bangs compared to the sport+

[pmsteinm]

Originally Posted by Justao

Sport setting eliminates all the burbles and pops n bangs compared to the sport+

Right, but so does pressing the exhaust button. Then you keeps the sport+ throttle map and potentially lowered coolant temperature. You can also eliminate most of the pops and bangs by selecting D2 or S2 or lower.

On the LCI the only way to get pops and bangs is exhaust on, sport+, D/S3 and speed below 50. And exhaust gas temperature below some threshold but you can't see that.

[nerdogray]

I can't believe I'm saying this, but I have been feeling the same way. I wish I could keep everything about Sport+ but "tone" back the over-eagerness of the crackles and blurbles on deceleration, especially at lower speeds... not necessarily "stop and go" traffic but that one step above where it's constantly doing it. I don't want it completely gone... I just want it a bit more subtle... more in line with the M5's overall style of wolf in sheep's clothing.

[pmsteinm]

Originally Posted by nerdogray

I can't believe I'm saying this, but I have been feeling the same way. I wish I could keep everything about Sport+ but "tone" back the over-eagerness of the crackles and blurbles on deceleration, especially at lower speeds... not necessarily "stop and go" traffic but that one step above where it's constantly doing it.

Just press the exhaust button. You aren't giving anything up other than some fake cabin noise. I noticed at Thermal they had it turned off in the M5s. And the car still sounds good.

In the technical guide it says the flaps will still open when needed (i.e. WOT).

[gioM5-Comp]

I’ve literally just bought a 2019 M5 Competition and I sort of went out of my way to check that the car would have the burbles, pops & bangs when set in Sports+ mode. Not that I run it in that mode all the time but for me that’s part of the character of the car and, when used from time to time, it does put a smile on my face. I know it’s all personal tastes and what not but there is the option to switch it off if you so desire and I’d rather have the feature there and choose when and where not to use it. Its the same for other brands like the older generation RS7’s… they sounded so much better than the newer versions…

[DavidXJ]

You guys don't know how lucky you are! At least you have the option to lay on the aggressive burbles, when the inclination arises!

Here in the EU, BMW clearly interpreted the pathetic noise regs that came in late 2019 as a reason to eliminate overrun/lift-off pops and crackles entirely. As such, those of us who want a bit more character from the exhaust, now have no other option but to remap--which is what I'm minded to do, perhaps in conjunction with an Akra evolution line slip-on system, if the budget allows.

It's baffling and frustrating that BMW took such a cutthroat approach to mapping out the pops and crackles when near competitors like the recent E63 and the latest RS7 performance still retain them (albeit in restrained form). Of course, we don't want chavvy bangs on a M5; but neither should it be restrained (LCI cars in the UK are also severely muted even in Sport +). It's enough to turn you into an acoustic libertarian...

[FC]

I've also noticed that this car takes a WHILE to warm up. Put V8 LR4 warms up in no time in comparison.

[Alberta]

Originally Posted by DavidXJ

You guys don't know how lucky you are! At least you have the option to lay on the aggressive burbles, when the inclination arises!

Here in the EU, BMW clearly interpreted the pathetic noise regs that came in late 2019 as a reason to eliminate overrun/lift-off pops and crackles entirely. As such, those of us who want a bit more character from the exhaust, now have no other option but to remap--which is what I'm minded to do, perhaps in conjunction with an Akra evolution line slip-on system, if the budget allows.

It's baffling and frustrating that BMW took such a cutthroat approach to mapping out the pops and crackles when near competitors like the recent E63 and the latest RS7 performance still retain them (albeit in restrained form). Of course, we don't want chavvy bangs on a M5; but neither should it be restrained (LCI cars in the UK are also severely muted even in Sport +). It's enough to turn you into an acoustic libertarian...

This is why I don't change my 2018 for a more recent M5.

I love that sound!

[pmsteinm]

Originally Posted by FC

I've also noticed that this car takes a WHILE to warm up. Put V8 LR4 warms up in no time in comparison.

It does take a while. I notice after about 3 miles the redline is normal, but my own preference it to wait for 1/4 mark on the oil temp (165) which takes about 5+ miles depending on the temperature.

My 7-year-old daughter made me proud earlier this week on a cold morning (in our garage, but outside was already warmish): "Daddy why is the yellow at the 5 today?" Weeks before I had explained the variable redline.

[beaups]

Originally Posted by FC

I've also noticed that this car takes a WHILE to warm up. Put V8 LR4 warms up in no time in comparison.

Are you comparing oil temps on both vehicles? Coolant warms up much more quickly than oil. The M5 gauge is oil temp, my Range Rover gauge is coolant temp.

[pmsteinm]

Originally Posted by beaups

Are you comparing oil temps on both vehicles? Coolant warms up much more quickly than oil. The M5 gauge is oil temp, my Range Rover gauge is coolant temp.

This.

My CTS-V only had water temp, which came up pretty fast. Oil temp could be inferred by watching the oil pressure and seeing when it stopped dropping. That car took even longer than the M5 to warm up, although maybe I wasn't as diligent about waiting for warm up to have fun...

My wife's 1st BMW (E90 335i) had oil temp instead of water temp on the instrument cluster. Her X5 has water. On the M5 you can see water temp by looking at the engine widget. I remember back in 2003 Cadillac ditched the water temp gauge in the base CTS and replaced it with a clock. Their argument (and probably rightly so) was that no one really looks at it until overheat, at which point an idiot light comes on anyway. I liked a Mustang rental I had: it let you see oil, water, air inlet and exhaust temps, plus a bunch of other neat (but I suppose ultimately useless) information.