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      12-03-2018, 06:27 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Gassy View Post
How the heck could you see the back of the harness, read those tiny numbers and bend the prongs into the harness in such a restricted, tiny space? You must have small, dexterous fingers, man!
The red wire and the brown wire are staring at you once you remove the top cover. So I just inserted the tap into those two wires, made sure they were inserted as far as they would go and it worked great. No need to read numbers or remove the harness.
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      12-04-2018, 09:14 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shellbmb View Post
The red wire and the brown wire are staring at you once you remove the top cover. So I just inserted the tap into those two wires, made sure they were inserted as far as they would go and it worked great. No need to read numbers or remove the harness.
I bow to your ingenuity then. My motto is: never allow the obvious and easy path be the one you take!
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      12-05-2018, 02:31 PM   #25
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Thanks for the write up.

Is there anywhere i can tap into that would turn off the RD as soon as I turn off the car? RD's are not legal in my part of the world and the last thing i need is for it to keep beeping if i get pulled over.
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      12-26-2018, 04:42 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by AGS View Post
I was at the dealership today for my break-in service and had the technician help me figure out how to open the mirror housing. He referred to his service manual for removal of the plastic cover, and also printed me a wire schematic to find the right wires to tap into.

1. The plastic mirror housing is in three pieces (see picture B). One large piece at the top, a narrow center "collar" section, and the bottom "cup" section. In picture A below the green lines are next to the seams where the three pieces come together.

2. First remove the large top section by squeezing in on both sides at the top front of the piece where I marked with the red circle. While pushing in on both sides, slide the section backwards towards the rear of the car.

3. Once you have the top section off you'll see the mirror wire harness (see picture C). You may be able to unplug the mirror harness without removing the two other pieces. If you need to remove the collar section you'll need a trim removal tool or something with a thin blade that will not scratch or mar the plastic housing. The technician used his trim tool to pry open the seam between the collar piece and the cup piece to separate them then he pulled out on both sides to disengage the collar section from the mirror. Note in picture B the tabs on either side of the collar section. I took picture C after I had installed the blendmount and wrapped the wire bundle and blendmount wires with electrical tape to hold the blendmount in place.

4. Unplug the mirror wire harness to gain access to the rear of the connector to insert the blendmount wire taps. You could also peel back the wire tape to create enough room to use a tap connector on the appropriate wires.

5. You want to use the red wire with the black stripe (pin 3) for the power and the brown wire (pin 10) for the ground (see picture D and the wire schematic below). The red/black wire is 12 volt power that will switch off 6 - 8 minutes after you turn the car off. It does not power down immediately.
Thanks for the great DIY .... I finally had some free time to tackle this earlier today and your pictures helped quite a bit.
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      01-03-2019, 02:09 PM   #27
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Nice work, can you please post more photos of the final V1 Position from inside and outside. Thank you.

Mike
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      01-03-2019, 08:08 PM   #28
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Nice work, can you please post more photos of the final V1 Position from inside and outside. Thank you.

Mike
Thanks. Here are some pictures. The one from the outside isn't great due to the reflection from my garage door opener but you get a decent idea of the positioning. The shot from the inside shows the positioning best - high on the windshield just to the right of the "tinted" area.
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      01-03-2019, 08:16 PM   #29
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I put mine all the way to the edge. The tinted park makes it more discrete. Not as noticeable when parked in the streets.
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      01-03-2019, 08:34 PM   #30
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Ok thought you had one of the brackets that mounts to the mirror, I prefer the location you have, that is where mine is. LOL. I wired to the cigaret lighters (which also times out after 5 minutes or so) and added a mute switch to the back of the turn signal stock. I did not find a good spot for the remote display since the dash has many curved areas not good for a square box LOL

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      01-03-2019, 08:37 PM   #31
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I put mine all the way to the edge. The tinted park makes it more discrete. Not as noticeable when parked in the streets.
So the tinting doesn’t interfere with the radar or laser detection?
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      01-03-2019, 08:45 PM   #32
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MWcoupe View Post
I put mine all the way to the edge. The tinted park makes it more discrete. Not as noticeable when parked in the streets.
So the tinting doesn’t interfere with the radar or laser detection?
My uniden r3 works great, no interference
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      01-05-2019, 06:24 PM   #33
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Thanks for this post. Install went great with these instructions.
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      01-13-2019, 07:58 AM   #34
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My uniden r3 works great, no interference
I tried moving my V1 to the same location as yours but the tinting was causing the Laser detector to go off constantly. Weird!
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      01-13-2019, 08:08 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGS View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MWcoupe View Post
My uniden r3 works great, no interference
I tried moving my V1 to the same location as yours but the tinting was causing the Laser detector to go off constantly. Weird!
It's not the tints problem. The gesture control triggers the v1. Get a piece of black electrical tape and cover the rear lense.
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      01-13-2019, 10:13 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by MWcoupe View Post
It's not the tints problem. The gesture control triggers the v1. Get a piece of black electrical tape and cover the rear lense.
Nope, I already did that to neutralize the gesture control false alarms. When I locate it outside the tinted area its fine, but as soon as I shift it into the tinted area the laser notification activates constantly. Like I said, weird!
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      01-13-2019, 01:40 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGS View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MWcoupe View Post
It's not the tints problem. The gesture control triggers the v1. Get a piece of black electrical tape and cover the rear lense.
Nope, I already did that to neutralize the gesture control false alarms. When I locate it outside the tinted area its fine, but as soon as I shift it into the tinted area the laser notification activates constantly. Like I said, weird!
Oh wow, doesn't make me miss my v1 at all. But do miss the arrows
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      01-20-2019, 04:55 PM   #38
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How much space is under that cover? I want to try to install mine that when when I get my car back. I have the Blue Tooth dongle for the iPhone app and would like that to be installed under that cover.

Mike
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      01-27-2019, 10:29 AM   #39
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Did you find that the wire tap pins stayed in well? I was just looking at this and the connector does not have a lot of room for a pin to push in. Tried a DIY with copper wire pins, but would not make contact very well. I gave up for the day, too FRIGGEN COLD in garage to mess around. I don't want to tap into the actual wires. The connector is a pain to get apart since the thing is mounted as though you could hang on it. I thought it would come out so you can get fingers on it, but not so much LOL. The wire I used may be a bit too small, I am not sure.

Mike
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      01-27-2019, 12:34 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aronis View Post
Did you find that the wire tap pins stayed in well? I was just looking at this and the connector does not have a lot of room for a pin to push in. Tried a DIY with copper wire pins, but would not make contact very well. I gave up for the day, too FRIGGEN COLD in garage to mess around. I don't want to tap into the actual wires. The connector is a pain to get apart since the thing is mounted as though you could hang on it. I thought it would come out so you can get fingers on it, but not so much LOL. The wire I used may be a bit too small, I am not sure.

Mike
The wire taps were not snug in the harness, so I wrapped everything with electrical tape (see picture C). I did have to unplug the connector to get access, but others have been successful using needle nose pliers to push the wire tap into the harness without disconnecting it.
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      01-27-2019, 03:54 PM   #41
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I order the wire tap kit so I will see if it works better with the proper pins.

Mike
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      01-28-2019, 03:26 PM   #42
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Dig the cable deep u til you can see any metal from the hardwire rap, learned it the hard way had to do everything all over again.
You mean push it in until the entire pin for the wire tap is in and no more of the metal can be seen?

I bought the wire tap, it shipped today! LOL

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      01-28-2019, 09:55 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MWcoupe View Post
Dig the cable deep u til you can see any metal from the hardwire rap, learned it the hard way had to do everything all over again.
You mean push it in until the entire pin for the wire tap is in and no more of the metal can be seen?

I bought the wire tap, it shipped today! LOL

Mike
Yes, once it's all the way in and can't see the metal part from the wire tap you won't even need to tape it. Gets very snug. Once the wire tap is in, quickly test it with your radar to see if you got power. I had to do everything over again and it was a pain in the ass lol
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      01-31-2019, 05:12 PM   #44
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Installed mine today. Was easy.

The wire from Mirrortap has a flat pin that inserts easily into the wire harness connector. My make shift setup was using a round wire that would not fit easily. So it's worth the 30 bucks.

I was hoping there was enough room to put the bluetooth dongle and the splitter up in the roof, but no such space. I am going to make a adapter small enough to put the blue tooth thing on top of the detector and not have a large adapter there.

Mike
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