08-18-2022, 11:36 PM | #1 |
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LCI Comp vs pre LCI base M5 suspension questions
Hello everyone. I am planning to buy complete struts with springs from LCI competition and would like to install it in my 2018 base model M5. Does anyone here know if this is possible? I am fully aware that part numbers are different. I suppose that physically the part would fit, however does anyone have an idea if electrical harnesses is identical ? Will it work ? I am aware that for LCI suspension for Comp was upgraded with the M8 setup. If anyone has an idea please chime in!
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08-19-2022, 06:53 AM | #2 |
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The electrical connectors are pretty simple and sold separately. Look up the part numbers on realoem to see if they are the same. My guess is 90% they are. It’s not that big of a job to just change struts - I just recently changed the springs on mine. But struts are the easy part of suspension work and there is much more to a Comp suspension than just struts.
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08-19-2022, 08:46 AM | #3 | |
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08-19-2022, 09:32 AM | #4 |
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I have a 2018 on stock 20” wheels and don’t think my rear axle is bouncy at all. I do think the rear end wiggles side to side to much. I have the Dinan rear toe link kit on order to hopefully remove some of that play. I did change motor mounts to the stiffer Comp mounts, install the Dinan monoball front tension strut bushings, and add H&R M5 springs. I like those changes. I have lighter 20x10 and 11 wheels that I will transfer my tires to in the next week or two and that rear Dinan kit.
Comp also apparently has stiffer swaybar center bushings. These would be easy to change but it looks like they are not sold separately by BMW and I have not yet found an aftermarket source — the shape would have to fit the contours of the BMW bushing carrier. |
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08-19-2022, 10:01 AM | #5 | |
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08-19-2022, 10:50 AM | #6 |
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I bought my car CPO with new PS4 and noticed this wiggle then. To me it feels like bushing play. I had this on my E90 M3 and changed to stiffer subframe and diff bushings and the play pretty much disappeared. It’s the weight moving to the opposite side under hard cornering and then springing back over a bit before the suspension seems to settle. I think the F80 M3 used solid subframe bushings. It looks like the F90 has rubber and I have yet to read of anyone changing to stiffer or solid. In the meantime I am hopeful the Dinan rear toe kit helps.
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08-19-2022, 12:27 PM | #7 | |
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08-19-2022, 12:40 PM | #8 |
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Do you notice this in all 3 shock settings? Only on bad roads? With stock tire pressure or comfort/light load or high speed pressures? 20 or 21” wheels? I’ll try to pay attention to this, but the wiggle is the chief complaint I have observed in my 16k miles of driving in the 18 months I have had the car.
I bought the base because I read a lot of complaints about the ride of the comp. I did not want my wife to complain because then we would have to take her car when going somewhere together. But the ride of the base is good enough that I just added the H&R springs and I think my wife will be OK with the ride in comfort mode. Everyone does say the newer shocks have more compliant valving so what you are doing will only help. I might consider buying a set at some point. Someone was selling a set in the forum a month ago for about $2k. |
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08-19-2022, 12:44 PM | #9 | |
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08-26-2022, 05:46 PM | #10 |
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So new to me suspension bits have arrived yesterday. Can't wait to put them on and feel the difference. LCI competition shocks with springs. It will either be installed by mechanic next week maybe unless he is super busy than I will possibly tackle the job myself. Apparently difference is noticeable and for better.
We will see |
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08-27-2022, 08:09 AM | #11 |
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Keep us updated - curious to hear the feedback.
And take some pics ! |
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Jonathan G.9.00 |
08-28-2022, 11:08 PM | #12 |
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Keep us updated! Looking up LCI suspension too as my stock base pre-lci is too bouncy for me only in comfort mode. Sometimes I even jump from the seat lol. It feels a lot better in sport/sport+ mode but I want to see what it feels like with lci struts.
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09-01-2022, 10:27 AM | #13 |
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So here is little update. With everyone busy I've decided to tackle this strut replacement myself. With very limited info on internet it took me loooooong time. I was only partially successful at it. I was able to replace the rears. However. In order to remove them seat belts need removal. When I removed one side they would act as if they're constantly locked. The lower I'd slid them the lower mechanism would lock. Unable to release it I'll need to wait for availability in one of the shops in the area. Oh well. I'll have to wait. The front ones you cannot remove without partial suspension removal. Ridiculous design but it is what it is. I will chime in once I'll have more information.
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09-01-2022, 12:27 PM | #14 |
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I recently had mine out to change springs. It was actually easier than I thought. There is a post on the rear seatbelts that I found that said to pull the belt out a foot or 2 and knot it or tape it so it won’t retract. There are also utube on the internet that explain how to release the belts of you so screw up. There are plastic pins you push through so the plastic cover comes off one side and then you can access the release mechanism.
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09-01-2022, 12:35 PM | #15 | |
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09-01-2022, 12:47 PM | #16 |
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Yes, pull the upper wishbone bolt and pry open the gap so the ball joint can be freed. The lower arm also needs to be unbolted from the fork at the bottom of the strut. These instructions will help — the English part is halfway through:
https://preisliste.ac-schnitzer.de/a...3130290510.pdf On the rear belts, watch this: |
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09-01-2022, 03:26 PM | #17 | |
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09-01-2022, 08:43 PM | #18 |
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So guys. I have front upper ball joint undone. All the wires removed from knuckle. Removed end link from the strut bottom fork. Fork spreaded and loose on strut. Still there isn't enough room to remove strut from front suspension. It doesn't seem to have enough room to come out of the fork that is mounted to the lower control arm. What am I missing here ?
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09-01-2022, 09:10 PM | #21 |
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You are 100% positive that there's nothing else that I need to remove ? Seems to be super hard to pull it down even lower. I am afraid to pull axle out of front differential.
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09-01-2022, 09:15 PM | #22 |
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You are supposed to be careful not to risk the fork denting the axle. What happens if you instead pull the hub/brake down another inch or so to make space to pull the strut tube out of the fork?
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