[NCG80M3]

Hello eveyone. I just recorded a DIY install of the new catch pan. Def was an easy install. Should not take longer than 2 hours total.

if you have any questions let me know.

[NoMods]

Originally Posted by NCG80M3

Hello eveyone. I just recorded a DIY install of the new catch pan. Def was an easy install. Should not take longer than 2 hours total.

if you have any questions let me know.

saw that last night and great work as usual James!

[GTTC]

Originally Posted by NCG80M3

Hello eveyone. I just recorded a DIY install of the new catch pan. Def was an easy install. Should not take longer than 2 hours total.

if you have any questions let me know.

https://youtu.be/rdUNO_ms9xA?si=k06nyUdkWphVy6Y3

I just got my tank and all other damaged part replaced under CPO warranty. What is your experience long term with this setup? Looking at the pics some of the groves look like if a leak starts, it may drain down the catch can bottom holes vice the intended port. Did you get to experience a leak and it worked as intended while you had the car?

I’m seriously thinking on getting one but not sure if it would be 100% problem proof.

[pbonsalb]

You may still be changing your tank periodically. This just reduces the likelihood of more expensive damage. A solution that addressed the underlying problem would be better. For example, heat control that allowed the stock tank to live a long life, or if the stock tanks are simply defective, an aftermarket tank that will live a long life. But to buy a $600 tank cover and still replace tanks at $200 per year seems the least efficient way.

[F10Mfizzy]

Thanks for the diy!! Shoulda went with RK metal tank though. I think that’s the only real solution. It’s 1200 tho but still one time swap and your good. If your keeping the car long term it’s def worth it. Can even Gold dei heat wrap the reservoir to keep the heat away from it.

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by F10Mfizzy

Thanks for the diy!! Shoulda went with RK metal tank though. I think that’s the only real solution. It’s 1200 tho but still one time swap and your good. If your keeping the car long term it’s def worth it. Can even Gold dei heat wrap the reservoir to keep the heat away from it.

I wanna see someone get the RK tank and then have it ceramic or cerakote coated like down pipes! that way the entire tank is protected from heat. That aluminum is gonna be a heat soak from that engine bay, quite a bit more than the plastic. Oh the irony!

[swom5]

I added DEI tape to the Level 1 catch pan. After about 1K miles no leaks thus far.
James' video was super helpful, however I did not have to remove the ecu to complete the install.
If I do have further problems, will install turbo/cat blanket. Desire to keep coolant system as close to stock as possible, because of extended factory warranty.

[GTTC]

Originally Posted by swom5

I added DEI tape to the Level 1 catch pan. After about 1K miles no leaks thus far.
James' video was super helpful, however I did not have to remove the ecu to complete the install.
If I do have further problems, will install turbo/cat blanket. Desire to keep coolant system as close to stock as possible, because of extended factory warranty.

Were you able to route the rubber hose correctly? I’ll be doing this soon and I don’t want to remove the DME.

[GTTC]

Finally installed my catch can today. It was a PIA but didn’t have to remove the DME. One downside was the original bolts that hold the expansion tank were too short after install. Lowes did the trick. Another thing to note is the bottom hose goes under the catch can exit nipple/hose, found out the hard way. So far seems ok. If any issues will post again.

[swom5]

Update, actually removed the Level 1 catch pan. Coolant tank failed again and coolant leaked thru the two bottom mounting holes. Was barely under warranty, as it expires in April 2024. Dealer replaced tank, 4 injectors on driver's bank as well as coils and harness. Being a boat owner, I think that butyl tape may adequately seal the Level 1, but I will move on to the aluminum RK tank and insulate that with DEI tape. The fact that BMW will not address this problem with a properly engineered solution almost makes we want to sell. . . almost!

[GTTC]

Originally Posted by swom5

Update, actually removed the Level 1 catch pan. Coolant tank failed again and coolant leaked thru the two bottom mounting holes. Was barely under warranty, as it expires in April 2024. Dealer replaced tank, 4 injectors on driver's bank as well as coils and harness. Being a boat owner, I think that butyl tape may adequately seal the Level 1, but I will move on to the aluminum RK tank and insulate that with DEI tape. The fact that BMW will not address this problem with a properly engineered solution almost makes we want to sell. . . almost!

FML. I always wondered about that. I guess the bottom channels were no enough to divert the fluid. I did have some cap overflow when i was pressure tesing the install. I didn’t see any outside the catch can, but wasn’t too much either…. The RF is just so damn expensive. 😤

[S EyeLand]

Originally Posted by GTTC

Finally installed my catch can today. It was a PIA but didn’t have to remove the DME. One downside was the original bolts that hold the expansion tank were too short after install. Lowes did the trick. Another thing to note is the bottom hose goes under the catch can exit nipple/hose, found out the hard way. So far seems ok. If any issues will post again.

Hmm, this doesn't sound right. Are you sure its seated correctly. I was easily able to use the factory bolts.

Originally Posted by swom5

Update, actually removed the Level 1 catch pan. Coolant tank failed again and coolant leaked thru the two bottom mounting holes. Was barely under warranty, ait'ss it expires in April 2024. Dealer replaced tank, 4 injectors on driver's bank as well as coils and harness. Being a boat owner, I think that butyl tape may adequately seal the Level 1, but I will move on to the aluminum RK tank and insulate that with DEI tape. The fact that BMW will not address this problem with a properly engineered solution almost makes we want to sell. . . almost!

Collant shouldn't sit in the catch, the drain is at the lowest point. Are you certain the drain hose was in the correct location and not pinched?

[GTTC]

[QUOTE=S EyeLand;31030911]Hmm, this doesn't sound right. Are you sure its seated correctly. I was easily able to use the factory bolts.

Yes, it sits flat with the metal plate without forcing it down. The extra height (thickness) added is not letting the factory bolts to go all the way. Just needed an extra 1/4 of inch or so and it worked. I found it odd too but Its good.

[hookson]

Originally Posted by swom5

Update, actually removed the Level 1 catch pan. Coolant tank failed again and coolant leaked thru the two bottom mounting holes. Was barely under warranty, as it expires in April 2024. Dealer replaced tank, 4 injectors on driver's bank as well as coils and harness. Being a boat owner, I think that butyl tape may adequately seal the Level 1, but I will move on to the aluminum RK tank and insulate that with DEI tape. The fact that BMW will not address this problem with a properly engineered solution almost makes we want to sell. . . almost!

The catch pan works. Either was something wrong with the install or your tank cracked in other location and was spraying in the engine bay.
I made a 10k miles roadtrip in M5 across whole USA. My coolant tank started to leak half in to the trip. CCP saved my vacation.

Here is a good video demonstrating how it works and reroutes the leaking coolant. In case of extreme big leak, yes, there is a change it will not be able to reroute all coolant from mounting ports. But this is an extreme scenario.

Also in this video you can see why RK billet tank is not a solution to a problem: from factory this car is designed to release excess coolant pressure through coolant tank cap. When it does that all this coolant will still go on your engine and injectors. So you still need CCP, even with billet tank

[Holset]

Originally Posted by hookson

The catch pan works. Either was something wrong with the install or your tank cracked in other location and was spraying in the engine bay.
I made a 10k miles roadtrip in M5 across whole USA. My coolant tank started to leak half in to the trip. CCP saved my vacation.

Here is a good video demonstrating how it works and reroutes the leaking coolant. In case of extreme big leak, yes, there is a change it will not be able to reroute all coolant from mounting ports. But this is an extreme scenario.

Also in this video you can see why RK billet tank is not a solution to a problem: from factory this car is designed to release excess coolant pressure through coolant tank cap. When it does that all this coolant will still go on your engine and injectors. So you still need CCP, even with billet tank

https://youtu.be/3A-BAxF2wL0?si=S_6dutk4n345-hI0

Yes correct i believe pretty much every expansion tank cap is designed to do this at a certain pressure.

[Holset]

On the Mhd tune i have checked a box called high performance cooling this lowers the water cooling temp alot when driving hard maybe this can help with this issue?

[pbonsalb]

Even better with a 90C thermostat. Tunes offer that feature — my BM3 does. But anyone can trigger some degree of supplemental tank cooling by using Sport Plus. Not sure if any of these options alone is enough to reduce heat sufficiently to get a long life from a stock tank. There is a lot of heat from the bank 2 turbine housing and cat just underneath.