[GriggsyG22]

Does anyone know if this is something that bimmercode can code in with the F90 LCI or is that not a possibility with this model? Just been looking around trying to find all the helpful lil things I can/should be coding in. I've only done the B&W Sound Profiles upgrade and the replaced the Bronze Ambient Lighting for Magenta so far.

[ResIpsaLoquitur]

Originally Posted by GriggsyG22

Does anyone know if this is something that bimmercode can code in with the F90 LCI or is that not a possibility with this model? Just been looking around trying to find all the helpful lil things I can/should be coding in. I've only done the B&W Sound Profiles upgrade and the replaced the Bronze Ambient Lighting for Magenta so far.

Checking the F90 available options to be coded on BimmerCode, there is no listing for this feature.

I’ve always been curious about the BE sound profiles. Does your HK sound better after coding it?

[GriggsyG22]

Originally Posted by ResIpsaLoquitur

Checking the F90 available options to be coded on BimmerCode, there is no listing for this feature.

I’ve always been curious about the BE sound profiles. Does your HK sound better after coding it?

I'll be honest. I'm sure if it actually made anything necessarily sound better. It allowed for surround sound control and the profiles do give different sound dynamics but I wouldn't say anything necessarily sounds better. I may end up having the subs in my Jeep swapped over to the M5 however.

Buddy knows how to do that stuff and says it would be about $200 in parts and about an hour worth of work. He'd have to throw the subs in, tap the new amp into the battery, then run an LOC (line output convertor) into the OEM amp to take the signal from it and that in return would be ran into the aftermarket amp and then run the aftermarket amp to the subs. Stock speakers would still run on OEM amp, subs would run off of the aftermarket.

[ResIpsaLoquitur]

Originally Posted by GriggsyG22

I'll be honest. I'm sure if it actually made anything necessarily sound better. It allowed for surround sound control and the profiles do give different sound dynamics but I wouldn't say anything necessarily sounds better. I may end up having the subs in my Jeep swapped over to the M5 however.

Buddy knows how to do that stuff and says it would be about $200 in parts and about an hour worth of work. He'd have to throw the subs in, tap the new amp into the battery, then run an LOC (line output convertor) into the OEM amp to take the signal from it and that in return would be ran into the aftermarket amp and then run the aftermarket amp to the subs. Stock speakers would still run on OEM amp, subs would run off of the aftermarket.

Thanks for your input.

I’ve seen a few guys do that where they’ll put them in the trunk and then have to open the pass through to actually allow any bass through due to the cabin’s being significantly insulated (hence the ASD). I’d hate to have to deal with all that.

Because of a good tip by RalphT5, I’m looking at just trying to swap to an AudiotecFischer MatchUp amp and trying that route to get some better bass in the car (in conjunction with swapped out under seat subs).

[GriggsyG22]

Originally Posted by ResIpsaLoquitur

Thanks for your input.

I’ve seen a few guys do that where they’ll put them in the trunk and then have to open the pass through to actually allow any bass through due to the cabin’s being significantly insulated (hence the ASD). I’d hate to have to deal with all that.

Because of a good tip by RalphT5, I’m looking at just trying to swap to an AudiotecFischer MatchUp amp and trying that route to get some better bass in the car (in conjunction with swapped out under seat subs).

How actually does one "open the pass through" ??

[ResIpsaLoquitur]

Originally Posted by GriggsyG22

How actually does one "open the pass through" ??

So I’ve ever actually only done this once, but the releases are in the flat panel that is in the trunk just below the bottom of the rear glass. Since it’s a 40/20/40 split, I can’t remember if it’s the left one or the right one that opens the pass through. But they can all (or one/two) remain open independently. Open them all using both levers, then close the two 40 splits.

Not the route I’d recommend going if you’re thinking of putting an enclosure back there, though.

Just my $0.02.

[TheNine90]

Originally Posted by GriggsyG22

Does anyone know if this is something that bimmercode can code in with the F90 LCI or is that not a possibility with this model? Just been looking around trying to find all the helpful lil things I can/should be coding in. I've only done the B&W Sound Profiles upgrade and the replaced the Bronze Ambient Lighting for Magenta so far.

For bimmercode its a bit complicated. It better to use esys since you have you have to modify the FA and code the modules.

[CrashCade]

Originally Posted by GriggsyG22

Does anyone know if this is something that bimmercode can code in with the F90 LCI or is that not a possibility with this model? Just been looking around trying to find all the helpful lil things I can/should be coding in. I've only done the B&W Sound Profiles upgrade and the replaced the Bronze Ambient Lighting for Magenta so far.

ProTools is setup to make this straight forward. If you cannot figure it out, their customer support is amazing!

[micvite]

Originally Posted by CrashCade

ProTools is setup to make this straight forward. If you cannot figure it out, their customer support is amazing!

It doesn't work 100%, I'd say it's like 80% there though doing it that way... having a coder do it got it to like 90% but still was having issues on mine. Ymmv though... when I go to Germany in a few days I plan to "rip" the coding straight out of a car instead of generate it with esys to see if there's any differences.

[CrashCade]

Originally Posted by micvite

It doesn't work 100%, I'd say it's like 80% there though doing it that way... having a coder do it got it to like 90% but still was having issues on mine. Ymmv though... when I go to Germany in a few days I plan to "rip" the coding straight out of a car instead of generate it with esys to see if there's any differences.

Mine seems to function 100% how it should using ProTools. Maybe I was fortunate.

[ResIpsaLoquitur]

Originally Posted by GriggsyG22

How actually does one "open the pass through" ??

Originally Posted by ResIpsaLoquitur

So I’ve ever actually only done this once, but the releases are in the flat panel that is in the trunk just below the bottom of the rear glass. Since it’s a 40/20/40 split, I can’t remember if it’s the left one or the right one that opens the pass through. But they can all (or one/two) remain open independently. Open them all using both levers, then close the two 40 splits.

Not the route I’d recommend going if you’re thinking of putting an enclosure back there, though.

Just my $0.02.

EDIT — There is also a latch under the rear seat center headrest that releases the pass through independent of the folding seats/trunk latch.

[adeuel]

I had my LCI headlights coded remotely, including the Euro spec auto high beams, in under 20 minutes. Works flawlessly. Search and contact "Almaretto" on the forums.

[RalphT5]

Thanks!! Will look into this after my software update.