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      03-10-2023, 03:35 PM   #23
shawnhayes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jambo1 View Post
Unlike the rear brake pads, can anyone shed some light as to why the BMW factory manual states several times to NOT use paste/lubricant on the pads or the retaining hardware for the fronts?

Is there some special coating on the front retaining clips?
It's because they think we're stupid and will put too much which will migrate onto the rotor face.

From the SH** I've seen from time to time, ahem, they're right way too much.

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      03-16-2023, 08:20 PM   #24
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A couple of notes for some comments early / middle of this thread above to provide clarity for those members.

Yes, pushing the piston without the tool will damage the caliper if the EPB motor is attached and not actuated using software / scan to get the calipers in service mode.

I didn’t have my scan tool on hand, nor my brake service tool set, so I removed the two EPB motor bolts (hex bit in my case, in contrast to some having a torx fastener), and turned the gear on the back of the caliper (not the EPB motor itself), clockwise until it stopped.

This gear behind the caliper piston requires a triple square bit, and of all the triple square bits, I happened to be missing this one. It just was one of those times I felt I didn’t have my shit together.

I used a T45 Torx bit which fit perfectly, and turned by hand. I then bolted the motor back on and was able to easily push the piston back with one thumb (with brake reservoir cap opened - could alternatively crack open the bleed screw as you’re pushing the piston back).

Apply quality grease in the appropriate areas of the pads and install.

For the front calipers on our cars, there IS a special coating on where the pad touches that should not be cleaned with an abrasive brush, nor can it be greased. It’s only supposed to be cleaned well with brake cleaner. For those that have cleaned it up in a conventional way and greased, I wouldn’t sweat it - almost certain most dealerships and shops would overlook this and wouldn’t hurt anything in the grand scheme of things. Only the magical special coating would be diminished. Would be nice to find out the technical reasons for this way of manufacture and maintenance for the front caliper.

Hope this helps someone. Let’s see how my iSweep iS2000 pads do henceforth.
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      03-16-2023, 10:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jambo1 View Post
so I removed the two EPB motor bolts (hex bit in my case, in contrast to some having a torx fastener), and turned the gear on the back of the caliper (not the EPB motor itself), clockwise until it stopped.

This gear behind the caliper piston requires a triple square bit, and of all the triple square bits, I happened to be missing this one. It just was one of those times I felt I didn’t have my shit together.

I used a T45 Torx bit which fit perfectly, and turned by hand. I then bolted the motor back on and was able to easily push the piston back with one thumb

......

Hope this helps someone. Let’s see how my iSweep iS2000 pads do henceforth.
This is the way I had to change my rear pads the first TWO times on the 2018. Giant PITA. Took FOREVER, simply because it's fiddly. Not DIFFICULT per se, just fiddly.

Good detail. I look forward to your iSweep review.

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      03-16-2023, 10:29 PM   #26
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[QUOTE=shawnhayes;29942983]This is the way I had to change my rear pads the first TWO times on the 2018. Giant PITA. Took FOREVER, simply because it's fiddly. Not DIFFICULT per se, just fiddly.

Good detail. I look forward to your iSweep review.

Shawn

I was actually thinking about your comments earlier when I did mine. They weren’t bad to do, and quick. But in your case, you’re changing them while hot on the track! Man, that has to suck!

Initial impressions are meh so far. If brake dust is mitigated, that’s a plus, but more importantly, I’m not getting OEM bite yet. Been only 30 miles or so, so far. Let’s see.
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      03-17-2023, 04:43 PM   #27
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[QUOTE=Jambo1;29943019]
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnhayes View Post

I was actually thinking about your comments earlier when I did mine. They weren’t bad to do, and quick. But in your case, you’re changing them while hot on the track! Man, that has to suck!

Initial impressions are meh so far. If brake dust is mitigated, that’s a plus, but more importantly, I’m not getting OEM bite yet. Been only 30 miles or so, so far. Let’s see.
Your bit for the Torx screws must have been better than mine. I'm only able to get a 1/2 turn without having to pull out and reinsert due to the angle. That's why I appreciated getting the brake piston tool so much. Made the job so much faster.

And yes, hot at the track sucks too.

Sorry to hear the OEM bite isn't there. Can't say I'm surprised. The carbon ceramic pads from BMW are awesome, honestly.

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      01-11-2024, 09:53 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jambo1 View Post
A couple of notes for some comments early / middle of this thread above to provide clarity for those members.

Yes, pushing the piston without the tool will damage the caliper if the EPB motor is attached and not actuated using software / scan to get the calipers in service mode.

I didn’t have my scan tool on hand, nor my brake service tool set, so I removed the two EPB motor bolts (hex bit in my case, in contrast to some having a torx fastener), and turned the gear on the back of the caliper (not the EPB motor itself), clockwise until it stopped.

This gear behind the caliper piston requires a triple square bit, and of all the triple square bits, I happened to be missing this one. It just was one of those times I felt I didn’t have my shit together.

I used a T45 Torx bit which fit perfectly, and turned by hand. I then bolted the motor back on and was able to easily push the piston back with one thumb (with brake reservoir cap opened - could alternatively crack open the bleed screw as you’re pushing the piston back).

Apply quality grease in the appropriate areas of the pads and install.

For the front calipers on our cars, there IS a special coating on where the pad touches that should not be cleaned with an abrasive brush, nor can it be greased. It’s only supposed to be cleaned well with brake cleaner. For those that have cleaned it up in a conventional way and greased, I wouldn’t sweat it - almost certain most dealerships and shops would overlook this and wouldn’t hurt anything in the grand scheme of things. Only the magical special coating would be diminished. Would be nice to find out the technical reasons for this way of manufacture and maintenance for the front caliper.

Hope this helps someone. Let’s see how my iSweep iS2000 pads do henceforth.
Would you mind explaining in further details why pushing the pistons back without the tool would damage the caliper? I trust what you and Shawn said, but am curious about how it works.
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      01-26-2024, 11:06 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvoxer View Post
Would you mind explaining in further details why pushing the pistons back without the tool would damage the caliper? I trust what you and Shawn said, but am curious about how it works.
because it is a threaded design in side for use as a parking brake as well as a normal brake system. so by just pushing back on the piston with the EPB (electronic parking brake) gear still engaged behind the piston you could damage those threads...honestly whats gonna happen unless your a beast of a human, you're just gonna try and push the piston back and nothing is gonna happen. so as in the videos on the previous page, you see them rewind the threaded EPB portion which allows the rear caliper piston to then be pushed back...

shawn's link to the special tool follows the same guideline of just pushing the caliper piston back into the caliper, however, it twists at the same time. so it is doing both jobs, pushing the caliper piston back and rewinding the EPB gear.

recommend watching the 2nd video her posted from bavarian. that hellped alot.
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      01-26-2024, 11:27 AM   #30
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I just did rear brakes on a 2016 VW Beetle Turbo for a friend and that was my first encounter with the parking brake integrated into the caliper. I did not have a kit with various piston dies for this and left/right twisters so I improvised and used channel locks a big pair to put slight pressure on the piston and a smaller pair to rotate the piston, being careful not to damage the dust seal. After that, and knowing I would be doing my M5 brakes this year, I bought one of the kits on Amazon. It was only $22 on sale. I also bought a bolt remover kit — I have plenty of torx but no triple square and VW uses triple square.
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      01-26-2024, 03:33 PM   #31
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Don’t Bimmerlink and/or Bimmercode have a rear break service part where the servos retract and you just pull the caliper out after removing the holding bolts?
Haven’t done mine but I remember seeing it online
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      01-26-2024, 11:42 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTTC View Post
Don’t Bimmerlink and/or Bimmercode have a rear break service part where the servos retract and you just pull the caliper out after removing the holding bolts?
Haven’t done mine but I remember seeing it online
This is what I use. Still need to push the pistons in.
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      01-26-2024, 11:57 PM   #33
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But you can use a standard piston retractor tool? Or do you still need the fancier type with dies that fit the slots in the piston? Have not had pulled my rear ladd yet so I have not seen the pistons.
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      01-27-2024, 06:33 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDOT View Post
This is what I use. Still need to push the pistons in.
You are correct.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
But you can use a standard piston retractor tool? Or do you still need the fancier type with dies that fit the slots in the piston? Have not had pulled my rear ladd yet so I have not seen the pistons.
Here is the link for the video. Is shows a G30 but is all the same. Bimmerlink + the push tool. I don’t think it needs to be a fancy one. A “c” clamp would do I think but I would be careful not to scratch the caliper. I wouldn’t use visegrips
https://youtu.be/JhRe02wxYng?feature=shared
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      01-27-2024, 07:26 AM   #35
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I used Bimmerlink to put the car into service mode but this to push the pads apart. I glued the large plates to the small ones because the magnetic force that was supposed to keep them together was too weak and they kept falling off but overall the tool is cheap and works well with no way of damaging the caliper paint.
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