[harismne]

I have the repair guide for the F90 but I can't find the low pressure fuel pump on it.
Can someone post it here or tell me the page?
I'm about to hit 45k Miles figured to replace it.

Thank you

[pbonsalb]

Is it a 45k mile preventative maintenance item? First time I have seen that suggested. It does seem like the E30-E50 guys are suffering failures.

[harismne]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Is it a 45k mile preventative maintenance item? First time I have seen that suggested. It does seem like the E30-E50 guys are suffering failures.

I don't think it's suggested but it fails alot.

[Rup91]

Do you still need it? I have the ista print out. Out of curiosity, which adapter did you purchase to remove the lock ring?

[harismne]

Originally Posted by Rup91

Do you still need it? I have the ista print out. Out of curiosity, which adapter did you purchase to remove the lock ring?

I haven't touched anything yet been busy with work.
I just can't find the printout on my repair guide.

[Rup91]

Originally Posted by harismne

I haven't touched anything yet been busy with work.
I just can't find the printout on my repair guide.

I’ll send it to you via pm when I get home. I watched a few videos on youtube. I want to make sure I buy the right removal tool to avoid damaging anything. I’ll be doing this diy once my tank is on E.

65k miles, pre-lci, after a short drive or long drive, if I start the vehicle, 25% of the time it will shut down immediately, the other 75% of the time it will idle eratically until it stabilizes. I replaced the spark plugs and injectors, didn’t fix my issue. So now time for fuel pump.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by Rup91

Do you still need it? I have the ista print out. Out of curiosity, which adapter did you purchase to remove the lock ring?

Is this a special lock ring that requires a special tool or is it like the in tank pump lock rings from BMWs from 10-20 years ago?

[Rup91]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Is this a special lock ring that requires a special tool or is it like the in tank pump lock rings from BMWs from 10-20 years ago?

looks like a regular old ring

[Rup91]

Originally Posted by harismne

I haven't touched anything yet been busy with work.
I just can't find the printout on my repair guide.

wont let me pm you the file so I'll post it here

[pbonsalb]

The special tool looks convenient, but I am not sure it is essential.

[GTTC]

Originally Posted by Rup91

wont let me pm you the file so I'll post it here

Where did you get the repair guide from?

[Rup91]

Ista

[harismne]

Originally Posted by Rup91

I’ll send it to you via pm when I get home. I watched a few videos on youtube. I want to make sure I buy the right removal tool to avoid damaging anything. I’ll be doing this diy once my tank is on E.

65k miles, pre-lci, after a short drive or long drive, if I start the vehicle, 25% of the time it will shut down immediately, the other 75% of the time it will idle eratically until it stabilizes. I replaced the spark plugs and injectors, didn’t fix my issue. So now time for fuel pump.

If you do diy that would be awesome man.
Let us know what tool you buy

[Alan l.]

I got this tool on amazon and it worked perfectly on my 2020 X5M.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9SDFPG4...roduct_details

I just swapped out my LPFP on my car recently so here are some tips.

Watch the Kies Motorsport LPFP video. Its not the same as our car but it gives you a good idea what to expect. He mentioned starting the car after disconnecting the harness from the pump to minimize fuel coming out. I did this and ran the car until it stalled out. Even then when i first unplugged the line there was still fuel squirting out so have some towels ready. I also opened the gas tank cap which in theory should help release any pressure inside.

Get your fuel level as low as possible! I got my car down to 50 miles to empty but there was still a decent amount of fuel in the tank. It makes things way easier. Trust me.

Do it in a well ventilated space. i did it inside of my garage and I probably shorten my life by a few years breathing in all the gas fumes.

The fuel pump is secured by pressure fitting it into a specific groove. I just pulled up on the stock one and it popped free.

On my X5M the fuel pump comes in two main parts. you have to snake it into the tank separately and connect it when its all inside.

I think there is a total of 3 hoses you need to disconnect and each one has a locking tab. They are color coded so you don't mix them up but i made sure i removed the tabs completely so I didn't accidentally drop it into the gas tank.

At the very end I used the Bimmerlink app to clear out all of codes from running the car without the fuel pump connected.

Hope that helps.
Alan

[Rup91]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

I got this tool on amazon and it worked perfectly on my 2020 X5M.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9SDFPG4...roduct_details

I just swapped out my LPFP on my car recently so here are some tips.

Watch the Kies Motorsport LPFP video. Its not the same as our car but it gives you a good idea what to expect. He mentioned starting the car after disconnecting the harness from the pump to minimize fuel coming out. I did this and ran the car until it stalled out. Even then when i first unplugged the line there was still fuel squirting out so have some towels ready. I also opened the gas tank cap which in theory should help release any pressure inside.

Get your fuel level as low as possible! I got my car down to 50 miles to empty but there was still a decent amount of fuel in the tank. It makes things way easier. Trust me.

Do it in a well ventilated space. i did it inside of my garage and I probably shorten my life by a few years breathing in all the gas fumes.

The fuel pump is secured by pressure fitting it into a specific groove. I just pulled on the stock one and it popped free.

On my X5M the fuel pump comes in two main parts. you have to snake it into the tank separately and connect it when its all inside.

I think there is a total of 3 hoses you need to disconnect and each one has a locking tab. They are color coded so you don't mix them up but i made sure i removed the tabs completely so I didn't accidentally drop it into the gas tank.

At the very end I used the Bimmerlink app to clear out all of [...]

Awesome. I’m at 75% full tank so I’m going to wait until I am at 50 miles range too. I bought a tool but I think I’m going to go with the one you used as it has more contact points than mine. I did watch Kies’ video, seems simple enough, we’ll see how it goes and hopfully take some pics to help out anyone here that might need visuals on this replacement.

[harismne]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

I got this tool on amazon and it worked perfectly on my 2020 X5M.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9SDFPG4...roduct_details

I just swapped out my LPFP on my car recently so here are some tips.

Watch the Kies Motorsport LPFP video. Its not the same as our car but it gives you a good idea what to expect. He mentioned starting the car after disconnecting the harness from the pump to minimize fuel coming out. I did this and ran the car until it stalled out. Even then when i first unplugged the line there was still fuel squirting out so have some towels ready. I also opened the gas tank cap which in theory should help release any pressure inside.

Get your fuel level as low as possible! I got my car down to 50 miles to empty but there was still a decent amount of fuel in the tank. It makes things way easier. Trust me.

Do it in a well ventilated space. i did it inside of my garage and I probably shorten my life by a few years breathing in all the gas fumes.

The fuel pump is secured by pressure fitting it into a specific groove. I just pulled on the stock one and it popped free.

On my X5M the fuel pump comes in two main parts. you have to snake it into the tank separately and connect it when its all inside.

I think there is a total of 3 hoses you need to disconnect and each one has a locking tab. They are color coded so you don't mix them up but i made sure i removed the tabs completely so I didn't accidentally drop it into the gas tank.

At the very end I used the Bimmerlink app to clear out all of [...]

Absolutely!!
Thank you for the thorough response man!!

[Rup91]

Update:
The fuel pump lock ring tool that Alan used is NOT compatible with the F90 M5. Is it way too small.

Going to try this one:

Universal Fuel Pump Removal Tool, Adjustable Fuel Pump Lock Ring Tool, Fuel Tank Lock Ring Tool, Fuel Tank Repair Kit, 5.31" to 7.17" Adjustable Lock Ring Spanner https://a.co/d/aUG1C56

[harismne]

Originally Posted by Rup91

Update:
The fuel pump lock ring tool that Alan used is NOT compatible with the F90 M5. Is it way too small.

Going to try this one:

Universal Fuel Pump Removal Tool, Adjustable Fuel Pump Lock Ring Tool, Fuel Tank Lock Ring Tool, Fuel Tank Repair Kit, 5.31" to 7.17" Adjustable Lock Ring Spanner https://a.co/d/aUG1C56

Following

[Rup91]

The tool I used above worked effortlessly. Just adjust the “legs” to fit the ring gaps. Removing the pump was easy. Installing it was a PITA. Installation is very different than any youtube video out there.

Learn from my mistakes:

Read the ISTA guide a couple times or print it out.

I replaced the pump with 70 miles range and it still had wayy too much fuel, I suggest replacing it with like 25 miles range. Have a 5 gallon gas tank filled so you don’t run the new pump dry.

Have plenty of shop towels or rags because once you remove the fuel line, gas WILL come out, even if you ran it prior with the cables disconnected to consume whatever was in the line.

Have plenty of gloves, I must of ripped like 10 of them.

When installing the delivery unit, make sure you insert the delivery unit , then the fuel filter before you attempt to mount the delivery unit; there is not much slack so holding the filter and cap while trying to mount the unit is a hassle.

The delivery unit sits flush with base. The only way to get the “tongue” into the delivery unit to secure it down is by using enough elbow grease. For the life of me I couldnt figure out how to get the unit installed back. Please note that the edge of the locking tab part of the delivery unit base sits ABOVE the lip. Use enough pressure and the lip will force its way into the locking tab, thats how you secure the delivery unit to the tank.

In addition to the pump, make sure you get a new seal, part # 16-11-7-188-567

First impressions:

Coming from an ‘18 model with 65,000 miles, it feels like response time is way better in both comfort and sport mode. I used to have a pretty good lag in both modes. Reason why I replaced the pump was because my car would stall after a warm start. We’ll see if this fixed the issue.

Feel free to ask anything.

I didn’t take many pictures; the guide takes care of most of the questions.

[Alan l.]

Weird that the M5 has a even bigger fuel pump ring than the X5M. Either way the tool isn't needed. I've seen alot of videos of guys just tapping it with a screw driver and hammer.

[Rup91]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

Weird that the M5 has a even bigger fuel pump ring than the X5M. Either way the tool isn't needed. I've seen alot of videos of guys just tapping it with a screw driver and hammer.

I tried tapping it, it was starting to tear into the ring itself. Decided it wasn’t worth having another problem to fix as it wasn’t budging at all.

[pmsteinm]

If I ever have to do this I will get the tool. Over the years I've tried making do without a special tool on various car and house tasks. In the end most of the time the special tool would have been the better way to go (in terms of time, aggravation, having to deal with other problems, etc).

Like on my last car when I finally broke down and bought the hose clamp tool...for years I made do with pliers. The first time I used that tool I couldn't believe how much easier it was and thought about all that time wasted and scraped knuckles over the years dorking around with pliers instead.