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12-26-2017, 11:26 AM | #1 |
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Error P152D - Idle Speed Control Valve?
2008, 6MT, 66k miles
When it started getting cold here in NJ, the car began going into limp mode occasionally. It has been driving completely fine - idle is smooth and car pulls hard. I can reset and limp mode goes away. As of late, it finally started coming up more consistently. Went to autozone to have codes read. Was given the following (yes, twice): P152D P152D This is the most information I can find: Fault description Idle-Speed Control Valve Monitoring Incorrect Actual Value (Bank 1) Does anyone have any idea what is actually wrong with the car / what needs replacement? I had originally thought throttle actuator but now doesn't seem to be the case. Did some research into Idle Control Valve but my code didn't appear there: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836709 Afraid to go to dealership and have them quote me some ridiculous price Edit: the car isn't driven often. ~ once / week Last edited by motion732; 12-26-2017 at 11:35 AM.. Reason: more info |
12-27-2017, 08:59 AM | #4 | |
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Information saved in DME Fault code 2B0D - P152D Fault text Idle actuator monitoring, bank 1 Fault description Idle-Speed Control Valve Monitoring Incorrect Actual Value (Bank 1) Condition for fault identification Test condition: Error detection received via CAN Terminal condition: TERM87 Voltage condition: Battery voltage > 6.8V (k_egas_can_ed_ub_min) Condition for fault memory entry 100 ms Action in service 1. Clear fault memory, LLS idle actuator system test 2. Check LLS1 voltage supply 3. Replace LLS1 Fault effect and breakdown warning DSC lamp / CC message / engine speed limited to 5000 rpm / reduced power / engine start may be possible only with use of accelerator pedal Driver information Warning light: MIL, EML, CC message, backup program Service instruction None
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12-28-2017, 12:49 PM | #6 |
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Update: reputable indy shop could not reproduce the code but did scan the history. They gave me the option of (paraphrasing) checking all components related to the idle actuator to determine the fault but that will be very time consuming and expensive. They suggested I bring it to a dealership for further diagnosis. I'm going to have to do this for the airbag recall anyway so I'll have them take a look then. I'll provide a further update at that point.
Any contributions / thoughts welcome until then... |
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12-28-2017, 03:36 PM | #7 |
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It tells you what to do, and this is basically what the dealer will do:
1. Clear fault memory, LLS idle actuator system test 2. Check LLS1 voltage supply 3. Replace LLS1 I'm not exactly sure what the confusion is here. If you cleared the code and it comes back, you need to follow BMW's diagnostic instructions...here's a better explanation: 1. Clear the code and run the LLS diagnostic test to see if the system is truly faulty or it's a false-positive 2. Validate that this LLS1 component is actually getting the correct voltages 3. If it isn't, replace it The factory service manual/software will explain how to do these tests. I suggest investing in it unless you want to keep taking the car to a mechanic or the dealer for everything. Don't just throw money at it by replacing parts that may not even be faulty. It could be something stupid like a loose connector or dirt in the harness.
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01-10-2018, 11:58 AM | #8 |
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Update:
Brought the car into the dealer for the air bag recall. They ran diagnostics and it turned out to be the idle control actuator. Quoted me $1300 for the replacement + diagnostic and a free loaner (obviously). Decided to have both throttle actuators replaced while they're in there: $621 per actuator + 2/10 of an hour additional labor on the idle actuator. Total is $2800 for idle control actuator + 2x throttle actuators + they're warrantying the parts and work for 2 years. I dont think this is a bad price; seeing people paying that much on this forum for one TA alone. I would have to buy tools + software (150?) + parts (2100 for 2x TA + IC) if i was DIYing so although it'd probably come out a bit $ less there is added risk of me fucking it up (which is high). Circle BMW in Eatontown is doing the work for anyone interested Keep the throttle actuators which are currently working so thinking i may try to sell them for anyone looking to rebuild Last edited by motion732; 01-10-2018 at 12:04 PM.. |
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01-12-2018, 06:23 PM | #9 |
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Update: limp mode came up again. What the fuck. Drove the car back from the dealership. Sat for a day. Started up and that's when it came up.
Back to the dealership I guess. Not sure what this could be - software related, maybe? Anyone have any ideas why limp mode would come up after this work was done? |
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01-14-2018, 11:16 AM | #10 |
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Has limp mode happened to anyone after replacing actuators? Could it be the dealership didn't clear codes? Do any other problems typically arise after this work is done for any reason?
I'm going to bring the car back but it won't be for a few weeks. This is going to drive me insane |
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01-14-2018, 06:02 PM | #11 |
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Check under the car and make sure your primary O2 sensors are hooked up right and you don't have an exhaust leak. This same limp mode and ICV codes happened for me when I had a huge exhaust leak before the primary O2 sensors. I had just installed test pipes and the 2 bolts holding them onto the headers had wiggled themselves off. The primary O2 sensors were getting a bunch of whack reading and the computer identified it as ICV also and set it into limp mode.
It would happen intermittently at start-up. Dealer wanted me to replace idle control valve and charged me $700 in diagnostics without looking underneath the car. |
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01-14-2018, 07:10 PM | #12 | |
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01-17-2018, 06:41 PM | #13 |
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Hopefully the final update on this. Dealership updated all software at no charge (it was all original) and since then have not been able to duplicate the problem. They kept the car overnight and even with a cold start it was all good. I'm a little weary but hopefully this is the last of it.
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05-01-2018, 03:58 PM | #15 |
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