[TacoJova]

Anyone here know why the Dinan rear kit come with 4 arms while the carbahn only has 2? Or is the Dinan kit made more for the base car and the carbahn for the comp cars that already have the other ball joint?
The front kits look similar i only noticed difference in the rear kit

[pbonsalb]

The Dinan kit does seem to make more sense for the base car, which is why I ordered one and am waiting months instead of just buying the Carbahn.

[Boiler Up!]

Originally Posted by TacoJova

Anyone here know why the Dinan rear kit come with 4 arms while the carbahn only has 2? Or is the Dinan kit made more for the base car and the carbahn for the comp cars that already have the other ball joint?
The front kits look similar i only noticed difference in the rear kit

I went with the Dinan kit because I wanted to replace the OEM stamped steel trailing arm with aluminum. Seemed like a no brainer for an extra $100.

[PDOT]

Originally Posted by TacoJova

Anyone here know why the Dinan rear kit come with 4 arms while the carbahn only has 2? Or is the Dinan kit made more for the base car and the carbahn for the comp cars that already have the other ball joint?
The front kits look similar i only noticed difference in the rear kit

I haven't pulled the trigger on these parts as I don't understand the difference

[PDOT]

Originally Posted by Boiler Up!

I went with the Dinan kit because I wanted to replace the OEM stamped steel trailing arm with aluminum. Seemed like a no brainer for an extra $100.

That's the part that makes me wonder what Carbahn knows that made them only create the part. I saw in Steve's interview it looks huge, idk what Dinan's piece looks like in comparison

[TacoJova]

After talking with Carbahn I went with theirs. They say the other arm for the rear isn't necessarily and they seem to be beefier than Dinan. Both are probably really good quality

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by Boiler Up!

There is not enough clearance for the tension struts to come out without disconnecting the output shaft from the wheel bearing. You do not need to completely remove the shaft as there is enough play to move it aside once it is disconnected by pulling the collar bolt (see photo). I've attached the full shop instructions for those interested.

don't suppose you have part numbers for all the replaceable bolts/nuts?

idk why bmw always wants to replace them. they're not aluminum bolts and nuts.

[Maverik259]

This is what i've found so far. The other bolts and nuts are a bit confusing as the diagrams don't exactly line up and they're all called the same thing but cost different, lol

axel bolt: 31-20-6-866-022
Clip nut: 33-30-6-760-349
Lateral Arm Retainer Nut: 33-30-6-760-349
Lateral Arm Bolt: 31-10-6-871-189

thoughts?

[pbonsalb]

I typically don’t replace everything the bmw manual says to replace, but I am just a DIYer. Aluminum bolts, yes — I changed those on my E90 M3 and E61 535xi oil pans when doing rod bearings and of course the rod bearing bolts. But when I installed the Dinan monoballs on the M5, I reused the suspension bolts and nuts.

[Used2be]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

This is what i've found so far. The other bolts and nuts are a bit confusing as the diagrams don't exactly line up and they're all called the same thing but cost different, lol

axel bolt: 31-20-6-866-022
Clip nut: 33-30-6-760-349
Lateral Arm Retainer Nut: 33-30-6-760-349
Lateral Arm Bolt: 31-10-6-871-189

thoughts?

My parts list has:

Two 31-20-6-866-022 collar screw w/spring

Two 31-10-6-871-189 torx screw with collar

Two 07-14-6-875-114 hexagon nut

One 31-10-6-867-561 clip nut. left

One 31-10-6-867-562 clip nut, right

This what I needed for the tension strut when I did the monoball.

[Boiler Up!]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

don't suppose you have part numbers for all the replaceable bolts/nuts?

idk why bmw always wants to replace them. they're not aluminum bolts and nuts.

Here's what I replaced:
(2) 31106780613 - Combination Nut
(2) 31106871189 - Torx Screw w/ Collar
(2) 31206866022 - Collar Screw w/ Spring
(2) 33306760349 - Self Locking Nut - This is an alternative for the clip nuts. You'll need to knock the nut out of the clip and insert a new one.

The reason for replacing all this hardware is that it is all torque to yield. You can tell from the torque + additional angle torque spec. TTY hardware can only be properly torqued once since it stretches permanently.

[pbonsalb]

That is not necessarily true. BMW has simply determined that angle torque is more reliable than a specified lbs or NM as the final stage since it reduces friction variables. It does not mean BMW is pushing the spec closer to the yield point.

Ideally you would measure the bolt length to determine if it has stretched but you need the original measurement spec. Certainly it does not hurt to buy new hardware anytime you change a bolt that has been torqued, whether or not the final stage is angle or lbs/Nm, but you do not necessarily have to spend the money.

[imolaa_m5]

Just bought these reading your review I'm excited

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

That is not necessarily true. BMW has simply determined that angle torque is more reliable than a specified lbs or NM as the final stage since it reduces friction variables. It does not mean BMW is pushing the spec closer to the yield point.

Ideally you would measure the bolt length to determine if it has stretched but you need the original measurement spec. Certainly it does not hurt to buy new hardware anytime you change a bolt that has been torqued, whether or not the final stage is angle or lbs/Nm, but you do not necessarily have to spend the money.

Well appt set for Thursday for my local Indy bmw shop to install. Probably wouldn't be able to get all these parts before then anyway haha. Oh well.

Edit: well I suck at these kinds of things. I probably couldn't tell the difference between the base and a comp much less a CS lmao. I never know what suspension setting I'm in.

With that said. I think I can notice a difference haha. I can't tell if it's just wishful thinking but I think it feels more responsive in the turns. Steering feels more connected too. Cost me $500 to install and do an alignment. They claim they didn't have to remove the bearings either which I found interesting.

[NCRob]

Ughh, wish I hadn’t seen this as my wallet keeps getting much lighter by the week. Lol!
Couldn’t resist

[NCRob]

For those of you that have been running these for a while now: Are they making any “noise” or otherwise adverse sound? Also, do they require regular greasing/maintenance? If so, what is that process and is it easy DIY?

[Used2be]

Originally Posted by NCRob

For those of you that have been running these for a while now: Are they making any “noise” or otherwise adverse sound? Also, do they require regular greasing/maintenance? If so, what is that process and is it easy DIY?

I’ve only had them installed for a year, but no noise at all. The bearings are sealed and with the minimal movement they travel through and the nylon lining I’d imagine they will last many years with no maintenance.

[NCRob]

Originally Posted by Used2be

I’ve only had them installed for a year, but no noise at all. The bearings are sealed and with the minimal movement they travel through and the nylon lining I’d imagine they will last many years with no maintenance.

thanks so much for the feedback! Everyone seems to love them so super excited to get them on in a a month or so

[E90076]

Is an alignment required after the monoball install?

[E90076]

Confirmed an alignment is required.

[NCRob]

Just got mine installed and thoroughly enjoyed my drive back from shop ripping down the twisty backroads! As cliche as it sounds, the car handles like an extension of my hands now

[Jambo1]

Originally Posted by NCRob

Just got mine installed and thoroughly enjoyed my drive back from shop ripping down the twisty backroads! As cliche as it sounds, the car handles like an extension of my hands now

Glad you got this done. It was literally one of my first mods when I got the car (even before any cosmetic items) - in a bid to get the steering feel to be like the BMWs of yore.