[TheNine90]

Originally Posted by _des_

Is this schematic for US with Us Taillights?
My Us Taillights Do not have a Pin #4

Most US spec inner tail lights dont have the pin

[johnny5ive]

Originally Posted by _des_

Is this schematic for US with Us Taillights?
My Us Taillights Do not have a Pin #4

Here's my OEM US Pre-LCI inner tailight for reference. I'm only missing pin 2.

[_des_]

Originally Posted by Joe-BMW33

What are we looking at here? Your US pre-LCI inner tail or the US LCI inner tail?

This is the US LCI inner taillight.

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by _des_

This is the US LCI inner taillight.

Pins 1 and 4 are going to be empty once you rearrange the connector. So that looks fine.

[BrBull]

is it possible to code it with ISTA+ and iCOM? if so, how can I do it? I have latest PSDzData.

Thank you.

[TheNine90]

Should be possible. Under retrofit section look for LCI rear lights retrofit

[Maverik259]

lost my turn signal on the passenger outer light. thought it needed to be replaced and the SA told me they just did a "battery reset" and everything worked fine.

thoughts?

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

lost my turn signal on the passenger outer light. thought it needed to be replaced and the SA told me they just did a "battery reset" and everything worked fine.

thoughts?

Just like everything else these days, when in doubt, reboot. Looks like it lost communication somehow.

Euro's?

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by Joe-BMW33

Just like everything else these days, when in doubt, reboot. Looks like it lost communication somehow.

Euro's?

lol i never would have thought to unplug my battery (assuming that what he meant by a battery reset).

US version

[Maverik259]

Anyone ever figure out the coding yet that I can do in BimmerCode expert mode that doesnt want to charge someone. The rate my dealer keeps wanting to f me over by coding my car despite telling me they won’t is causing this mod to get more and more and more expensive.

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

Anyone ever figure out the coding yet that I can do in BimmerCode expert mode that doesnt want to charge someone. The rate my dealer keeps wanting to f me over by coding my car despite telling me they won’t is causing this mod to get more and more and more expensive.

I use ProTool to backup the BCD which is where all the coding is. As long as the cars software version is not updated by the dealer, I can just restore the BCD which includes the tails as well as 90% of my coding.

That said, I am over two years with the original coding and I have never had it wiped out or needed to restore it. I have a note on my account and a great SA at the dealer that says, customer has custom coding, do not update software.

There was only one issue where the dealer wanted to flash the car which would have wiped it out. I had a new passenger seat mat installed and they need to initialize it. They easily could have done it as a one off, but dealers don't mess with individual items, they just flash the whole car. I told them not to, and then had the guys at Bimmergeeks (they own Protool) initialize the mat.

Protool will run you $80 ish for the license, but you also need an android tablet and a wireless ODB adapter. I bought a cheap tablet at Walmart and already had the Dongle that works with Bimmercode. I think all in was $150 bucks. ProTool is so much better than Bimmercode.

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by Joe-BMW33

I use ProTool to backup the BCD which is where all the coding is. As long as the cars software version is not updated by the dealer, I can just restore the BCD which includes the tails as well as 90% of my coding.

That said, I am over two years with the original coding and I have never had it wiped out or needed to restore it. I have a note on my account and a great SA at the dealer that says, customer has custom coding, do not update software.

There was only one issue where the dealer wanted to flash the car which would have wiped it out. I had a new passenger seat mat installed and they need to initialize it. They easily could have done it as a one off, but dealers don't mess with individual items, they just flash the whole car. I told them not to, and then had the guys at Bimmergeeks (they own Protool) initialize the mat.

Protool will run you $80 ish for the license, but you also need an android tablet and a wireless ODB adapter. I bought a cheap tablet at Walmart and already had the Dongle that works with Bimmercode. I think all in was $150 bucks. ProTool is so much better than Bimmercode.

i like the way this sounds. i may reach out to you on dm about it some more. i love Vick but am getting tired of having to utilize his expertise and the cost/time difference gets exhausting with an infant.

and again i have a great SA and he knows the shit ive done to my car. and we specifically talked about not coding it. but i was having some issues with the interior LED piping not behaving properly and i asked for them to take a look at it as they replaced some of it under warranty a year ago, but i said if they have to code anything then dont worry about it, i dont care that much about the issue. and he even responded when the car was done that they needed to recode it and so we didnt finish it and i said great. only for my first night drive did i notice the led piping was working properly again...i stupidly thought it was a fluke, wasn't until last night when i got out of my car at night in a parking lot that i saw my tail light outers no longer were working....

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by Maverik259

i like the way this sounds. i may reach out to you on dm about it some more. i love Vick but am getting tired of having to utilize his expertise and the cost/time difference gets exhausting with an infant.

and again i have a great SA and he knows the shit ive done to my car. and we specifically talked about not coding it. but i was having some issues with the interior LED piping not behaving properly and i asked for them to take a look at it as they replaced some of it under warranty a year ago, but i said if they have to code anything then dont worry about it, i dont care that much about the issue. and he even responded when the car was done that they needed to recode it and so we didnt finish it and i said great. only for my first night drive did i notice the led piping was working properly again...i stupidly thought it was a fluke, wasn't until last night when i got out of my car at night in a parking lot that i saw my tail light outers no longer were working....

Yeah, sounds like they had to initialize the new tubes and they just flashed the entire BCD. Been there. Replied to you.

[CMK]

Has anyone swapped out US lights for Euro lights on their 2021+? Is the jumper+coding method the same?

Every set of replica tails I've found says it only fits 2017-2020. I want amber indicators on my 2021.

[Joe-BMW33]

Anyone have a recommendation on where to source OEM BMW stamped Euro tails other than Euro Power (which are not stamped and questionable OEM)?

[hb7779]

Originally Posted by Joe-BMW33

To the best of my knowledge, the welcome light issues with the US spec lights is still there and was never resolved. I think that was one of the drivers in people going to the Euros. Then, subjectively, the amber strip blinker on the Euros is just cooler. You also get rear fogs with the Euros if you care to enable them via coding and get the new switch. Your car given the year should definitely have the fog wire factory run from the BDC sitting there doing nothing. To me the Euros are no-brainer.

I am going to ask the most obvious question. If US spec retrofit is not 100% functional (welcome lights included) how are dealer retrofitting and getting them to work?

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by hb7779

I am going to ask the most obvious question. If US spec retrofit is not 100% functional (welcome lights included) how are dealer retrofitting and getting them to work?

I’m not familiar with any US dealer retrofitting US LCI lights. I realize there is a retrofit kit, I’ve just yet to read a story of someone who had the dealer do them.

Do you know of someone or a dealer that can get them installed with 100% functionality?

[hb7779]

I myself just read on few forums. Don’t know anyone personally. I will try and call a service department near me to find out.
I thought maybe someone here had done it via dealer in the US.

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by hb7779

I myself just read on few forums. Don’t know anyone personally. I will try and call a service department near me to find out.
I thought maybe someone here had done it via dealer in the US.

Honestly, if dealers were to offer this up, I would have been all over it, especially if it made the coding bulettproof.

[hb7779]

So I called a dealer near me yesterday and spoke to a service advisor. He was clueless about any coding issues with US spec LCI lights. According to him, they don’t do any retrofit work so have no idea if that works or not. I was kind of surprised. lol!

[Joe-BMW33]

Originally Posted by hb7779

So I called a dealer near me yesterday and spoke to a service advisor. He was clueless about any coding issues with US spec LCI lights. According to him, they don’t do any retrofit work so have no idea if that works or not. I was kind of surprised. lol!

Yeah, even though they make a retrofit kit with instructions on wiring etc., I don’t think any dealer in my circles would do it. I would probably have to point them to the kit as I doubt they even know it exists. Of course the retrofit kit and instructions I am familiar with is the Euro kit. Maybe there isn’t a US kit?

You pose a very good question.

[hb7779]

Just finished installing my US spec lights following these directions. One thing I would like to add is that you definitely need a jumper as described in the retrofit bulletin issued by BMW. Without the jumper wire, US spec lights will NOT work as described in this post and video. My lights are installed but they are behaving like EU lights except for the amber color. My coder tells me that I need to have the jumper for them to work as the US spec light. Here is my wiring without the jumper.
I am really confused and can’t find any official source to clarify whether a jumper is required or not for US spec cars with US spec LCI lights.