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      07-14-2023, 02:37 PM   #749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeatownF80 View Post
Bruh, I bought the plug and plays from Bimmerplug before I read about them and saw this thread. Wish I researched a little more
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      07-16-2023, 11:33 AM   #750
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Correct me if I'm wrong, I think a Euro LCI rear light will plug & play onto a UK Spec car?

Does this mean I can look at breaking G30s too?
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      07-16-2023, 11:40 AM   #751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thresherinc View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong, I think a Euro LCI rear light will plug & play onto a UK Spec car?

Does this mean I can look at breaking G30s too?
I think any pre LCI retrofit requires an extra wire from the BDC or a jump wire, no matter what country. LCI’s have one more independent light than pre LCI. Same for coding to make that wire active and probably rearranging on the inner plug.
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      07-27-2023, 10:00 PM   #752
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe-BMW33 View Post
I think any pre LCI retrofit requires an extra wire from the BDC or a jump wire, no matter what country. LCI’s have one more independent light than pre LCI. Same for coding to make that wire active and probably rearranging on the inner plug.
Do you happen to know which wire and which slot?
I got the plug and plays and only the outer lamps is on when braking. I'd love to have the whole lamp on when braking for a more OEM look.
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      07-28-2023, 12:59 AM   #753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeatownF80 View Post
Do you happen to know which wire and which slot?
I got the plug and plays and only the outer lamps is on when braking. I'd love to have the whole lamp on when braking for a more OEM look.
It’s all in this thread but I’m not sure it will apply to the Chinese knock offs.
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      07-31-2023, 08:34 AM   #754
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Performed a lci retrofit on a UK spec f90 competition using the jumper method for indicators described in this thread. After installation, all rear lights were working however a light pulse from reverse lights and several lighting errors, which were likely due to lack of coding performed.
Following this however, the instrument cluster has intermittently been completely blank and front right headlight including turn signal has gone out.

Have reverted vehicle back to stock however there is still an issue with the front right headlight. Cluster seems fine for now. Just probing to see if anyone else in this thread has come across similar issues. Thank you.
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      07-31-2023, 09:22 AM   #755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinzak View Post
Performed a lci retrofit on a UK spec f90 competition using the jumper method for indicators described in this thread. After installation, all rear lights were working however a light pulse from reverse lights and several lighting errors, which were likely due to lack of coding performed.
Following this however, the instrument cluster has intermittently been completely blank and front right headlight including turn signal has gone out.

Have reverted vehicle back to stock however there is still an issue with the front right headlight. Cluster seems fine for now. Just probing to see if anyone else in this thread has come across similar issues. Thank you.
I am guessing you have the perfect storm here and the dash display and headlight issues have nothing to do with the LCI install.

The blank display is a common issue and can be resolved with a dealer software update (or a pull of the battery negative or just waiting for the car to go to sleep fully). The headlight issue has nothing to do with the LCI install confirmed by the fact you are still getting it after reverting back.

Taillight errors with the LCI's in are definitely due to lack of coding.
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      07-31-2023, 11:45 AM   #756
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Thank you for the response!
Heard a lot about the instrument cluster fault but what are the odds! When it goes blank, only the side light led is illuminated on it seeming like it is linked somehow. Fingers crossed it doesn't come back. The way I see it is that all tail light wires are simply analog outputs from the BDC mosfets and whether open or shorted, can't do any harm other than produce a fault code for overcurrent/lack of. And based on the tail lights completely working both with the LCI, and reverted to normal tails, shows they haven't taken any damage. So now I have a faulty headlight module or BDC as the linbus line between the pair doesn't seem to activate anything does make a turn signal fault code too for implausible signal. The canbus to the headlight does work as I can communicate with it, proving it has power n earth. Drl does work but I believe it's separate?
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      07-31-2023, 11:57 AM   #757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinzak View Post
Thank you for the response!
Heard a lot about the instrument cluster fault but what are the odds! When it goes blank, only the side light led is illuminated on it seeming like it is linked somehow. Fingers crossed it doesn't come back. The way I see it is that all tail light wires are simply analog outputs from the BDC mosfets and whether open or shorted, can't do any harm other than produce a fault code for overcurrent/lack of. And based on the tail lights completely working both with the LCI, and reverted to normal tails, shows they haven't taken any damage. So now I have a faulty headlight module or BDC as the linbus line between the pair doesn't seem to activate anything does make a turn signal fault code too for implausible signal. The canbus to the headlight does work as I can communicate with it, proving it has power n earth. Drl does work but I believe it's separate?
Good luck. You said you did the jump method and didn't mess with the BDC, if you had, I would suggest you take look to see if you knocked something out.

I bet your display will be fine. BMW and Gremlins have been part of the brand for 50 years. Kind of like a Windows machine - reboot and problem solved.
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      09-18-2023, 12:19 AM   #758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euro* View Post
In my guide I will be installing USA/Canadian spec Red Tail Lights on USA/Canadian spec car. North American spec cars have 4 pins on inner trunk lid tail lights, while the rest of the world has 5.

Due to North American cars operating on 4 pins, you will NOT need to run 2 extra wires to the passenger footwell BDC, as that's what you might have seen in other guides out of Europe, or Asia.
(Btw running to BDC is a proper OEM way, but you can just do a shortcut, by running a wire from the inner lights, and tapping to the outer lights).

Let's Begin:

Parts that you will need:
I've bought all my parts from an eBay seller Euroactive. Shipping was fast and they replied to msgs almost instantly. Do recommend!

- Outer Left tail light: 63218493813
- Outer Right tail light: 63218493814
- Inner Left tail light on the trunk: 63218493819
- Inner Right tail light on the trunk: 63218493820

- Trim panel water channel Drip rail Left: 63218493821
- Trim panel water channel Drip rail Right: 63218493822
- Tail light finisher, trunk lid, Left: 51499448943
- Tail light finisher, trunk lid, Right: 51499448944



Attachment 2541774

Attachment 2541775

Tools that you will need:
- Tack Lifter screwdriver
- Plastic panel removal tool
- Ratchet with 10mm socket
- 1.2mm flat head screwdriver

Attachment 2541779

Lets begin on inner trunk lid tail lights:

With trunk open start by removing 8 Expanding rivets:

Attachment 2541780

Unlock the bracket for Warning Triangle. Remove the bracket by unlocking 2 clips:

Attachment 2541785

With the panel removal tool, unclip and then disconnect the trunk lid opening/closing controls:

Attachment 2541793

Attachment 2541794

Remove the 2 hinge covers, they are held by 1 hidden clip, 1 visible Expanding rivet, and 2 locks:

Attachment 2541801

Pull the Felt liner towards you, and then there will be 4 more hidden clips towards the edge of the trunk:

Attachment 2541802

Remove the 2 covers on the side of the trunk (they cover the side of the lights. Start from the bottom, and work your way up to the clip:

Attachment 2541803

Unplug the inner tail lights, and remove the 3 10mm Hex nuts on each. Carefully replace with LCI tail lights:

Attachment 2541804

Now we need to re-arrange the pins on the inner tail light connectors.

Unlock the clip on the side of the connector:

Attachment 2541805

To release each one of the wires from the connector, insert the small screwdriver into the smaller hole to release the pin lock:

Attachment 2541811

Here is the way the connectors should look like:

Original Left connector:
Pin 1: Blue/red stripe
Pin2: Empty
Pin3: Brown
Pin4: Yellow/Black stripe
Pin5: Empty
Pin6: Yellow/Brown Stripe

Original Right connector:
Pin1: Blue/White stripe
Pin2: Empty
Pin3: Brown
Pin4: Yellow
Pin5: Empty
Pin6: Blue/Black Stripe

Re-arranged Left connector for LCI tail lights:

Pin 1: Empty
Pin2: Yellow/Brown Stripe
Pin3: Yellow/Black stripe
Pin4: Empty
Pin5: Blue/red stripe
Pin6: Brown

Re-arranged Right connector for LCI tail lights:

Pin1: Empty
Pin2: Blue/Black Stripe
Pin3: Yellow
Pin4: Empty
Pin5: Blue/White stripe
Pin6: Brown

Now let's get to the outer tail lights.

Pull back the weather stripping, and remove the drip rails on both sides. Start from the windshield and work your way down. The drip rails are held on 2 clips:

Attachment 2541812

Lift up the carpet and remove from the car:

Attachment 2541813

Remove 4 Expandable rivet clips from the Loading Sill cover:

Attachment 2541814

Pull back the weather stripping around the Sill cover and lift it up. It has another 4 hidden metal clips holding it:

Attachment 2541815

On each side of the trunk, remove 3 Expandable rivet clips:

Attachment 2541816

On each side, release the round clip around the hinges and lift it up and away:

Attachment 2541817

Attachment 2541818

Now you can carefully move the trunk trim to the side on both sides, to get to the outer tail light 10mm Hex nut and the connector. Remove the nut and unplug the connector:

Attachment 2541819

Remove 2 more 10mm Hex nuts on both outer tail lights:

Attachment 2541820

Now you can install LCI outer tail lights instead, and secure them with the same 10mm Hex nuts.

On outer tail lights, you do not need to do any rearrangements of the pins. They are plug-and-play.

CODING:

I didn't do coding myself. I used Vick from fb.com/bimmercoder or www.bimmercoder.com . His whatsup: +60 12-396 9654 I highly recommend him.

From my understanding nobody has reported on getting these USA red lights to work properly on USA cars before me. We spent hours and hours with different variations. My lights finally work 100% function wise, and no errors: Turn signals, brakes, running lights, hazards, LED reverse lights, all work.

What is NOT working, are the Welcome Lights (the lights that go ON for the first 15 seconds when you unlock your car). Those i had to turn off in my iDrive settings, otherwise they can cause issues if you start your car before they go off.

Hopefully somebody will figure out the Welcome Lights, and I will update this guide. So far from what I've seen, installers/coders in USA are all struggling to get those to work.

Here are the final results:

Attachment 2541825

Attachment 2541826

Here is also a video of how they are functioning:




I hope this guide will be helpful to others! Please let me know if you have any questions.

Thank you.


How much and through who?
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      10-03-2023, 02:33 AM   #759
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How are these different from the original spec USA tail lights? I can’t tell from the photos and video, are the turn signals orange instead of red?
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      10-07-2023, 07:10 PM   #760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ypykyayMF90 View Post
How are these different from the original spec USA tail lights? I can’t tell from the photos and video, are the turn signals orange instead of red?
The OLED ones I got from Bimmerplug (shipped from Aliexpress) when you brake only the outer lamp lights up. The inner lamp lights up only when DRL is switched on or highlight is on. Turn signal is a sequenced yellow bar.
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      10-25-2023, 08:13 AM   #761
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I have read through all the pages in this thread....learned a ton! Thank you!

I have a 2019 M5 Competition and live in St. Louis, MO, USA. I am going to do the LCI tail light conversion, and have Vic code (have sent him a note). I was going to go with the US Spec lights; however, it looks like there are some recent coding issues with the US Spec lights? Should I just roll with the Euro?

Your advice welcome.
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      10-25-2023, 10:51 AM   #762
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Originally Posted by jimboski10 View Post
I have read through all the pages in this thread....learned a ton! Thank you!

I have a 2019 M5 Competition and live in St. Louis, MO, USA. I am going to do the LCI tail light conversion, and have Vic code (have sent him a note). I was going to go with the US Spec lights; however, it looks like there are some recent coding issues with the US Spec lights? Should I just roll with the Euro?

Your advice welcome.
To the best of my knowledge, the welcome light issues with the US spec lights is still there and was never resolved. I think that was one of the drivers in people going to the Euros. Then, subjectively, the amber strip blinker on the Euros is just cooler. You also get rear fogs with the Euros if you care to enable them via coding and get the new switch. Your car given the year should definitely have the fog wire factory run from the BDC sitting there doing nothing. To me the Euros are no-brainer.
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      10-25-2023, 11:00 AM   #763
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Thank you Joe-BMW33!!!! Situation resolved...will go with Euro.
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      11-02-2023, 09:19 AM   #764
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Talking title

Hello, I hope this thread is still alive

I recently bought an F90 M5 2020 US specs that already had the LCI taillight(EU LIGHTS) retrofit.
However, it was doing weird stuff. Take a look.

https://streamable.com/tnfkae

After that, I started digging into it.

Found out that the schematics were as follows:


(huge thanks to whoever created this)


Which I found quite wrong, why would I put the turn signal to red LED(PIN 5) when I can't use that in the EU? I am from the EU so we can't have the red turn signal, only yellow.
So I switched the pin 5 to 4(Yellow strip), disconnected the jumper. Did it on both sides.
This is what my schematics look like now.


And this is what my car looks like.

https://streamable.com/klb33d

Everything works, apart from the tail brake lights. Which takes me to the point here. Out of nowhere, I have 2 errors on the dash, one for the right brake lamp, and one for the left brake light. But I never touched the outer lights ?
While I was rewiring I probably shorted something and the coding got reset. Can this happen ??


Update, the fault went away, just randomly.


Please some 1 correct me if am wrong or if this will cause issues or will cause issues with coding

Last edited by tesar74445; 11-03-2023 at 11:18 AM.. Reason: grammar
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      11-12-2023, 11:43 PM   #765
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Just thought I'd throw this on here...

I updated the rear lights to the LCI spec with amber turn signals (actually went with the ebay units that have sequential turn indicators).

Installation was very easy an no coding required and these use the wire connected from the outer lamp to the inner. Only comment is that the weather strips for the inner lights don't seem to attach to the actual light at the base and just hang creating a gap between it and the inner light when the boot is opened. Something my OCD will not allow and if I stick with these I may end up buying the OEM weather strips.

To be honest, I'm still not convinced.

In my opinion, the pre-LCI lights are much nicer looking when they are turned on compared to the LCI. The curve of the two tail-light clusters when lit up is 'very pretty' compared to the one solid red of the LCI. And the separate indicator and brake lamps are nice too.

However, I have to say that when not lit up the LCI is much more attractive and the blacked out sections definitely continue my theme.

Completely personal of course and each to their own.... plus not very often that actually see my rear taillights when turned on!
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      11-13-2023, 03:04 AM   #766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oz M5 View Post
Just thought I'd throw this on here...

I updated the rear lights to the LCI spec with amber turn signals (actually went with the ebay units that have sequential turn indicators).

Installation was very easy an no coding required and these use the wire connected from the outer lamp to the inner. Only comment is that the weather strips for the inner lights don't seem to attach to the actual light at the base and just hang creating a gap between it and the inner light when the boot is opened. Something my OCD will not allow and if I stick with these I may end up buying the OEM weather strips.

To be honest, I'm still not convinced.

In my opinion, the pre-LCI lights are much nicer looking when they are turned on compared to the LCI. The curve of the two tail-light clusters when lit up is 'very pretty' compared to the one solid red of the LCI. And the separate indicator and brake lamps are nice too.

However, I have to say that when not lit up the LCI is much more attractive and the blacked out sections definitely continue my theme.

Completely personal of course and each to their own.... plus not very often that actually see my rear taillights when turned on!
Just one man’s opinion, but the LCI’s look so much better and fresher. BMW’s pre LCI lights look the worst on the G30/F90. They are just so damn big, red and dated. They make the car look so much older.

On your weather strips, yeah, most people that buy the knockoffs order the OEM gutters. The ones the knockoffs come with are garbage.
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      11-18-2023, 05:17 PM   #767
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I just had US spec LCI taillights coded by someone remotely and they work great but now my mirrors dont unfold when i unlock the car. They folded in during the coding process and now they stay folded. Dont unfold when i unlock. anyone know how to fix this??

ETA fixed

Last edited by M5pnw; 11-18-2023 at 08:58 PM..
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      11-18-2023, 07:11 PM   #768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oz M5 View Post
Just thought I'd throw this on here...

I updated the rear lights to the LCI spec with amber turn signals (actually went with the ebay units that have sequential turn indicators).

Installation was very easy an no coding required and these use the wire connected from the outer lamp to the inner. Only comment is that the weather strips for the inner lights don't seem to attach to the actual light at the base and just hang creating a gap between it and the inner light when the boot is opened. Something my OCD will not allow and if I stick with these I may end up buying the OEM weather strips.

To be honest, I'm still not convinced.

In my opinion, the pre-LCI lights are much nicer looking when they are turned on compared to the LCI. The curve of the two tail-light clusters when lit up is 'very pretty' compared to the one solid red of the LCI. And the separate indicator and brake lamps are nice too.

However, I have to say that when not lit up the LCI is much more attractive and the blacked out sections definitely continue my theme.

Completely personal of course and each to their own.... plus not very often that actually see my rear taillights when turned on!
Totally agree. When on, pre-LCIs look much better than LCIs and have a really cool light signature. LCIs look kinda goofy and cartoonish to me.

But when off, pre-LCIs look bulbous and dated. LCIs use black accenting to streamline the look in a nice way.

So I don’t know. Haven’t been convinced to make the change personally. If the OEM LCIs were plug and play maybe that would persuade me.
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      12-20-2023, 05:25 PM   #769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by take0524 View Post
I have a rear fog that only lights up on one side.
I am wiring the rear fog as shown below.
Is this schematic for US with Us Taillights?
My Us Taillights Do not have a Pin #4
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      12-21-2023, 05:43 AM   #770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _des_ View Post
Is this schematic for US with Us Taillights?
My Us Taillights Do not have a Pin #4
What are we looking at here? Your US pre-LCI inner tail or the US LCI inner tail?
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Prior BMW's: 1987 325e|1993 740i|1998 740il|2001 530i|2002 745li|2007 750li|2006 750li|2001 530i|2012 535xi|
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