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      03-08-2024, 07:26 PM   #1
xede1975
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Buying Used Questions

Hey guys. New on forum and is looking to buying a use F90. I have two in my local area for sale, both 2019 and have 40K miles and the same price. Neither have warranties. The main differences between the two are that one has Eventuri v2 Intake, Keller performance dp, and a tune while the other one is bone stock. Both carfaxs look clean and seems well taken care of from the carfax service records and as well in person. The stock F90 has additional records from dealers which shows warranty repairs and maintenances.

Should I consider either of them since both don't have warranties? Just trying to get some insight as the reliability of the F90, I know its dependent on previous owners, but I'm more curious the bad luck stuff that I read on forums. Thanks!

Links of both cars:

https://www.denverautomart.com/used/...3ff1e1e1b1.htm

https://www.automotive-imports.com/u...edf598f4c9.htm

Last edited by xede1975; 03-08-2024 at 07:35 PM..
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      03-08-2024, 10:02 PM   #2
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Stock one 100%. Even if you wanted to tune it and stuff why not start with a stock one? Less wear and tear. Someone who tunes it wants to feel the power, who knows maybe the stock one was driven by a guy who just wanted an M and didn’t push it?

The modded one should be heavily discounted, at the same price even more so go with stock
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      03-08-2024, 10:18 PM   #3
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These cars, stock or otherwise, at these third party dealerships are always scary. A “clean” Carfax is not enough. I always say on the forum that the rule for purchasing these cars used is two PPIs that examine software and internals carried out by two separate qualified entitities. However, it becomes difficult to even trust those results on such a highly modified car. I would run so far from the highly modified one for sure for many other obvious reasons that you probably already know. I honestly wouldn’t even trust a stock example from a 3PD, but we all have different tolerances to (somewhat avoidable here IMHO) risks.
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      03-08-2024, 10:44 PM   #4
BeAtCoAsTeR
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Before you buy either car, you must take it to a BMW certified technician/shop, but NOT a BMW dealership. Pay the 5-600 bucks and have them look everything over with a fine tooth comb. Why?

The techs at BMW dealerships cannot find and replace any issue on a car they find without it first being brought to their attention by the customer/owner. If they did bring it to the customer's attention, BMW corporate will not pay them(the dealership) back for their time or the parts, which is why I had a BMW dealership tell me the car I was looking at was great after paying $350 for a "multipoint inspection". Fast forward 4 months and my independent shop found 5 things wrong with it while performing fluid changes/flushes I wanted to get done.

To this day I cannot get the seal on my drain pan fixed under warranty, as BMW has a code that says a "sweating" oil pan gasket or any other gasket leaking a small amount of oil is perfectly fine, and only until it drips profusely will they replace it under warranty. BMW corporate and their "certified" warranties are a joke, as every used BMW has been "taken care of" with the techs and service departments having their hands tied behind their backs. The fact BMW says 10k mile oil changes are fine for these engines is enough to scare anyone as well, as the bearings/tolerances are so tight on these engines the cleaner the oil the better.

Get an aftermarket warranty for the electronics/batteries/etc, but have a nice rainy day fund in your bank account for the stuff BMW neglected over the past years, as you may have to replace a lot on your own dime.
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      03-08-2024, 10:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeAtCoAsTeR View Post
Before you buy either car, you must take it to a BMW certified technician/shop, but NOT a BMW dealership. Pay the 5-600 bucks and have them look everything over with a fine tooth comb. Why?

The techs at BMW dealerships cannot find and replace any issue on a car they find without it first being brought to their attention by the customer/owner. If they did bring it to the customer's attention, BMW corporate will not pay them(the dealership) back for their time or the parts, which is why I had a BMW dealership tell me the car I was looking at was great after paying $350 for a "multipoint inspection". Fast forward 4 months and my independent shop found 5 things wrong with it while performing fluid changes/flushes I wanted to get done.

To this day I cannot get the seal on my drain pan fixed under warranty, as BMW has a code that says a "sweating" oil pan gasket or any other gasket leaking a small amount of oil is perfectly fine, and only until it drips profusely will they replace it under warranty. BMW corporate and their "certified" warranties are a joke, as every used BMW has been "taken care of" with the techs and service departments having their hands tied behind their backs. The fact BMW says 10k mile oil changes are fine for these engines is enough to scare anyone as well, as the bearings/tolerances are so tight on these engines the cleaner the oil the better.

Get an aftermarket warranty for the electronics/batteries/etc, but have a nice rainy day fund in your bank account for the stuff BMW neglected over the past years, as you may have to replace [...]
This guy gets it!
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      03-09-2024, 07:54 AM   #6
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[QUOTE=BeAtCoAsTeR;30970597]The fact BMW says 10k mile oil changes are fine for these engines is enough to scare anyone as well, as the bearings/tolerances are so tight on these engines the cleaner the oil the better.[QUOTE]

I have not read of rod bearing clearance issues on the S63 in the F90 M5. Certainly for the S65 and S85, and I changed the ones in my 08 M3 as preventative at 60k. S54 had bearing issues, but I do not recall the issues were attributable to insufficient clearance. Some say the N54 rod bearings wear out as well, but I have not read that it is due to clearance. I changed the rod bearings in my 08 E61 535xi at 150k and they looked about the same as those on the M3 at 60k — plenty of life left.

Certainly clean oil never hurts, and a 10k interval is too much for some driving and fine for other driving. The guys who drive around town with a lot of short trips suffer more condensation without the oil getting hot enough to burn off contaminants. Plenty of longer highway driving is quite different. Rod bearing clearance is a different issue.
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      03-09-2024, 10:17 AM   #7
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No question I would go with the stock one. I would have to think the modded one was beat on plus it has an accident listed. Might have been minor but that definitely will affect the resale value.
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      03-09-2024, 12:11 PM   #8
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I would only consider the Stock vehicle and I would have a trusted Indy shop with a certified mechanic perform a deep dive on the car.

Too many unknowns with tuned - modded vehicles.
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      03-09-2024, 05:03 PM   #9
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I’d never get a nice car from one of those used car lots, and I’d definitely never touch a heavily modded one there. But your risk level may be different than mine. There’s 0 chance that car wasn’t beat on with all those mods though
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      03-10-2024, 03:16 AM   #10
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The highly modified one also advertises CCBs, but unless the previous owner happened to paint the gold calipers the exact one and only other caliper color option for that model year, there are no CCBs.

[EDIT — Those are definitely cross drilled rotors in there].

Now that I addressed the more factual part of my post, the numerous decals everywhere are atrocious. Im all about “to each their own” and owners styling their car the way they please, but, this looks likes the worst Hot Wheels car ever made. I was fine until we got to the ones by the rear diffuser.
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      03-10-2024, 11:28 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ResIpsaLoquitur View Post
The highly modified one also advertises CCBs, but unless the previous owner happened to paint the gold calipers the exact one and only other caliper color option for that model year, there are no CCBs.

[EDIT — Those are definitely cross drilled rotors in there].

Now that I addressed the more factual part of my post, the numerous decals everywhere are atrocious. Im all about “to each their own” and owners styling their car the way they please, but, this looks likes the worst Hot Wheels car ever made. I was fine until we got to the ones by the rear diffuser.
I was just coming here to touch on the new CCBs part of the post that you just mentioned too. The entire listing for the modded one is a turn off.

Would certainly opt for the stock one if I were choosing between the two as others have mentioned, the pricing of the modded one should be lower but they’re trying to hook you on the “25k worth of mods” like we all don’t know how mods are valued in resale land.

If they’re claiming 850hp with the tune, know that the stock internals (and trans with the torque) has been through some tough days in the past.
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      03-10-2024, 03:13 PM   #12
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If it was me... I'd go with stock for all the reasons listed above. BMWs out of warranty are very expensive.

Also echo the comments about multiple inspections from at least 2 shops. You want to know exactly what you are getting into with these cars. Best case nothing shows up and you have peace of mind.
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      03-11-2024, 05:18 PM   #13
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I only buy New Questions.

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      03-15-2024, 05:02 PM   #14
xede1975
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Thanks for all the inputs! I'll look for a stock one, however, see one or two in the classified here that has mods. Is the classified pretty reliable?
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