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      03-02-2008, 06:52 PM   #67
larryn
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lol, I was just going to post this:

Quote:
It should be noted that this higher rating seen in Europe is an artifact of a different underlying measuring procedure. In most countries (including all of Europe and Australia) the "headline" octane that would be shown on the pump is the RON, but in the United States, Canada and some other countries the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, sometimes called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI), Road Octane Number (RdON), Pump Octane Number (PON), or (R+M)/2. Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, this means that the octane in the United States will be about 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, would be 91-92 in Europe. However most European pumps deliver 95 (RON) as "regular", equivalent to 90-91 US (R+M)/2, and deliver 98 (RON), 99 or 100 (RON) labeled as Super Unleaded.
98 Octane (RON) in Australia is equal to our 91 octane (R+M)/2 grade.
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      03-02-2008, 06:54 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn View Post
First will be to get the suspension and tires sorted, along with a CDV delete and brake fluid change... then I can look to the motor, if I feel I need to.
Larry,

what is a CDV, or at least what does it stand for?
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      03-02-2008, 06:56 PM   #69
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Clutch Delay Valve. It's there to soften the load on the clutch, but also gives reduced clutch feel. It's a very simple thing to bypass/remove.

Here's a thread from back in the day.
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      03-02-2008, 07:29 PM   #70
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The Helix Attache dynos that have been coming out from new owners are very promising.
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      03-02-2008, 07:48 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuned1 View Post
The Helix Attache dynos that have been coming out from new owners are very promising.
I have been seriously considering the Helix Attache recently. Performance numbers have been great on pump gas, and their kits seem great! Also them being within 150 miles makes driving to the shop over a weekend easily possible. Never know I could be a test car. :biggrin:
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      03-02-2008, 08:18 PM   #72
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Here's another one:



Gotta love competition!
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      03-02-2008, 08:54 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by confusion View Post
i'm not saying that that price is not really expensive but, honestly, have you ever driven one? i've not had the pleasure of driving a 997 but i have driven a 996 c2 cab extensively and it was simply awesome. it was certainly not the fastest car i've driven but the way it felt is beyond description. if i won the lottery, the very first car i would purchase would be a 997 gt3. best way i could ever imagine spending $115k. :P
sorry, i have never driven a Volkswagen Beattle... on the other hand, a good friend of mine has a 997 GT3 and a 500 hp Cayenne Turbo... the gt3 is more on the reasonable side @ 120k
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      03-03-2008, 04:43 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryn View Post
lol, I was just going to post this:

98 Octane (RON) in Australia is equal to our 91 octane (R+M)/2 grade.
Thanks just what i was after :wink:
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      03-03-2008, 06:35 PM   #75
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YOOOO That was crazy he was going like 138 and it wasn't even in 6th. I need a 135i, its not somthing I want any more its somthing I need and also I'm gonna put those downpipes on it.
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      03-04-2008, 01:17 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adc View Post
Only partially true. JB Stage 1 is a resistor based system - a signal attenuator in essence. For this, you pay a few dollars in parts and $160 for R&D and manufacturing.

JB S2 is a resistor attenuator plus active component system (think transistors, diodes whatever). The resistor network can deal with boost in a linear fashion, but fuel trimming (enrichment) is best done with a non-linear curve an thus the need for slightly more complex components. For this you pay the same $10 in parts, and $340 for R&D and manufacturing.
any idea what signal is being manipulated to get the ecu to change boost/fuel levels?

edit: how about anyone know what wire the circuit splices onto??
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      03-04-2008, 01:20 AM   #77
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So how would this compare to the performance gains of a Dinan chip?

How much do you think it would cost to get the IC/chip/downpipes/exhaust?
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      03-05-2008, 07:23 PM   #78
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Here is the link to the JB2 http://www.burgertuning.com/products.html
not sure about downpipes but they are using Ultimate Racing DP's http://www.ultimate-racing.com/Products2/BMW/BMW_335i_C_07%2BExhaust.shtml
or there are these also http://www.rissracing.com/ not sure if they fit the 135???
will have to what and see.... but this is they way I will probally go KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid)....
JB2 $379 + H $15 and DP around $1000 see results at http://www.burgertuning.com/images/jb2wdp.jpg
:wink: depends what you are after.... 347whp 374tq.
so maybe a little less than Dinan but$
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      03-05-2008, 07:59 PM   #79
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Do these aftermarket tuners change the setting in the computer for the VANOS system or are they just adding boost, fuel and timing? I think if you could get more aggressive with the valve timing near the top end of the rev range than there would be more power to be gained.
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      03-08-2008, 04:17 AM   #80
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sorry to bring this inspection thing back up but in NY if it basically doesn't have a CEL it will pass. Also, new cars are exemped(SP) from inspection for the first two years.
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      03-08-2008, 09:40 AM   #81
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      03-16-2008, 07:29 PM   #82
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This is the setup I have on my car very fast. I don't even drive my E60 M5 anymore.
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      03-16-2008, 07:31 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohc sti View Post
sorry to bring this inspection thing back up but in NY if it basically doesn't have a CEL it will pass. Also, new cars are exemped(SP) from inspection for the first two years.

CEL issues have been resolved for the 335 and will be the same for the 135. SIMs are working perfectly, and most 07s without SIMS don't CEL.
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      03-17-2008, 01:06 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthony@rissracing View Post
CEL issues have been resolved for the 335 and will be the same for the 135. SIMs are working perfectly, and most 07s without SIMS don't CEL.
some are saying the problem with the electronic SIMs is the dealer seeing it upon service. are there any mechanical fixes out?

-Chris
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      03-17-2008, 01:14 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuned1 View Post
Here's another one:



Gotta love competition!

wow
i want one
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      03-17-2008, 01:20 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boosted View Post
some are saying the problem with the electronic SIMs is the dealer seeing it upon service. are there any mechanical fixes out?

-Chris
You could try a mechnical CEL fix, but I'm not sure if anyone has done that with this car.

A mechanical fix also has to removed everytime you go to the dealer, if you're concerned about the dealer seeing that you've moded the car.

If that's your main concern, you're probably best off going with the Dinan flash. No need to conceal the modification.

Replacing a piggyback, exhaust, IC, etc everytime you go to the dealer is not efficient. If you pay to have that done, you'll be paying for 4+ hours of labor everytime you go to the dealer. Excessive IMO.
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      03-18-2008, 05:05 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sndprssr View Post
^^agreed...
Do we know yet if the RR DPs are going to be a direct bolt-on or am I going to have to do some welding of flanges?
Direct bolt on.
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      03-18-2008, 07:17 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam@Riss Racing View Post
Direct bolt on.
Yes! will be mine!

Do you ship to Australia?
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