[pbonsalb]

Very few complaints of squealing with CCB on the current M5 if that is anything to go by. The only reason it might not be indicative is if very few M5 have CCB — I have not seen statistics showing the percentage of cars with this option.

[boost3dx]

Originally Posted by windtendo

Interesting to hear otherwise! I wonder if it has anything to do with living in a desert with zero humidity?

Maybe, I have no idea though. With the CS, it did take a while before I heard any noise but now it happens slightly almost daily. I can drive hard and do some quick stops and it seems to help but only for a little while.

[AHall]

Originally Posted by boost3dx

Maybe, I have no idea though. With the CS, it did take a while before I heard any noise but now it happens slightly almost daily. I can drive hard and do some quick stops and it seems to help but only for a little while.

How many miles on the CS!

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by boost3dx

Maybe, I have no idea though. With the CS, it did take a while before I heard any noise but now it happens slightly almost daily. I can drive hard and do some quick stops and it seems to help but only for a little while.

Bro that’s awful! If you want we can trade for my 2020 with silent brakes. You will be much happier. Trust me.

[crypto]

Originally Posted by AHall

How many miles on the CS!

Same question here. I’m just over 4800 and never heard a peep.

[Pazzo009]

Hot topic...I had a F90 with steel, then got a F90 LCI with CCB...I will never buy another car without them.

To debate the track capability on a 4600 pound luxury sport sedan seems academic to me. I bought them for one reason and one reason only...To save time. The brake dust was insufferable on my last car.

No issues when cold, no significant difference is brake performance, and slight occasional squeaking

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by boost3dx

Aside from tracking the car, I love the CCB's. They are great on the track too but it's going to cost a college education to replace them, lol.

I will be changing my CCB to steel most likely sometime next year once shawnhayes does this and reports back on how his conversion goes, but this is only because I plan to track the car repeatedly.

For street use and 1-2 track days, CCB is the way to go as you'll likely never need to replace them. However, once you get to more track days, your time is numbered and you will need to replace them.

First track day is Tarheel Sport Car Club at VIR in February. I'll let everybody know how it goes.

Shawn

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I searched Car and Driver road tests and while every tester likes CCBs, the 70-0 stopping distances did not show any consistent gains. The distances varied even among CCB tests over the years so it is hard to nail down any improvement that is just a few feet. One test commented that the CCBs took 5’ more than the magazine’s last steel brake test.

Best way is back to back. This mirrors my experience. But, as they wear out, replacement costs are not worth it if you have to replace anywhere near as often.

Shawn

[PDOT]

Originally Posted by shawnhayes

First track day is Tarheel Sport Car Club at VIR in February. I'll let everybody know how it goes.

Shawn

Are you running stock rims/wheel set up?

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by PDOT

Are you running stock rims/wheel set up?

Around town? Yes.

On track, no. I have a square 10.5 inch setup that requires a 5mm spacer in the front so the 285/30 R20 tires don't rub the spring. Allows rotation of all tires to all positions.

Shawn

[micvite]

Originally Posted by Pazzo009

Hot topic...I had a F90 with steel, then got a F90 LCI with CCB...I will never buy another car without them.

To debate the track capability on a 4600 pound luxury sport sedan seems academic to me. I bought them for one reason and one reason only...To save time. The brake dust was insufferable on my last car.

No issues when cold, no significant difference is brake performance, and slight occasional squeaking

You know... it's funny, I have the exact opposite experience and honestly feel like the ccbs aren't really worth it unless you're going for the unsprung weight (which yes you can feel a difference).

I have the same if not MORE brake dust with the ccbs. Pedal feel is improved and more progressive imo than steel, but seriously you guys must be barely touching your brakes if you're not getting dust... (probably why yall complaining about the steelies squeeling all the tine) I can legit wash the car, drive 80 miles to a car show (mainly highway) and the wheels look like they were never washed, and this is with ccbs.

One thing I can say is definitely a pro, my steel brakes would've been warped by now and getting changed (I'm at 8500 miles, no track use) while the ccbs are still holding strong. Sadly no fcpeuro lifetime warranty for ccbs, vs steel that I can afford to replace every 10k miles as needed for free

[pbonsalb]

Why would steel brakes be warped at 8500 miles? Have not read of anyone suffering warped rotors. Maybe some have accumulated pad deposits.

[pmsteinm]

I think "warped rotors" is something that might have happened a long time ago but doesn't now. Unless maybe you buy the $30 Autozone China rotors for your Camry or something. The rotors on an modern car with decent performance should be more than adequate.

My 2000 Cadillac STS was my first car with 4-wheel disc brakes and I felt like I could stop on a dime. That is where I developed my hard braking habit. So much so that they warrantied my first brake pads when I brought it in at 10,000 miles because the front pad sensors said the pads were worn. They said "no way, must be hung caliper, bring it in." Then replaced the pads and said "tell him he's driving this car too hard". My rotors had an almost perfect blue sheen from all the pad material on them. If those tiny 11.85" rotors could stop that 4000lb car without warping I'm pretty sure the M5's will be ok. What many call "warping" is the shimmy caused by uneven pad deposits. And getting rotors turned is a risky idea since you are hoping their lathe is actually well maintained. They could end up making them worse. You could also have a problem with lateral runout on the rotor but that would be a manufacturing defect and not warping.

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Why would steel brakes be warped at 8500 miles? Have not read of anyone suffering warped rotors. Maybe some have accumulated pad deposits.

Because if you beat on them like F*** and don't cool them down before parking they still can warp. It's rare, and the properly ventilated M5 rotors prevent it almost totally.

I have cracked my rotors at less than that. But, that's a little different.

Shawn

[Neptune7]

Originally Posted by shawnhayes

Because if you beat on them like F*** and don't cool them down before parking they still can warp. It's rare, and the properly ventilated M5 rotors prevent it almost totally.

I have cracked my rotors at less than that. But, that's a little different.

Shawn

I was advised to park with just the gear in park and not engage the parking brake if the car hasn’t cooled down after vigorous braking. This keeps the rotors and calipers apart and reduces warping.

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by Neptune7

I was advised to park with just the gear in park and not engage the parking brake if the car hasn’t cooled down after vigorous braking. This keeps the rotors and calipers apart and reduces warping.

x 1000

MULTIPLE noobs at the track have "frozen" the parking brake after coming off track and parking with the parking brake on. It's now one of the FIRST things we coach new drivers not to do when coming off track. It's also best to circle the paddock at least once. Best to do a couple honestly. And run the car AFTER you park it to cool down the hotspots.

Warping the rotors is still hard with modern cars. Take a 1974 Porsche 914 (with solid rotors) go nuts on track with Hawk Blues, and come off and park with the parking brake on? Yep. Probably. Not the same.

But, it is what it is on that.

Shawn

[imperfectluck]

Originally Posted by shawnhayes

x 1000

MULTIPLE noobs at the track have "frozen" the parking brake after coming off track and parking with the parking brake on. It's now one of the FIRST things we coach new drivers not to do when coming off track. It's also best to circle the paddock at least once. Best to do a couple honestly. And run the car AFTER you park it to cool down the hotspots.

Shawn

Before I started tracking and even on spirited street runs, it's been etched into my mind to do a cool down lap / let the car run easy before coming to a dead stop and turn the car off. Fortunately modern day M cars actually keep the fan going to continue cooling down whilst the engine is off but I know what you mean about some just jumping right out of a hot lap and parking the car as if it were nothing lol.

[Bsm550]

I just did the m track day in Monticello and i could tell you that ccbs are a game changer

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by Bsm550

I just did the m track day in Monticello and i could tell you that ccbs are a game changer

They are great. HOWEVER, have you driven them back to back with a metal setup? Same tire? Same car? I have, and while they are better, are they 10x better? Not really.

Worth the cost? Depends on what you do....

Shawn

[pmsteinm]

Originally Posted by pmsteinm

I think "warped rotors" is something that might have happened a long time ago but doesn't now.

I want to point out I was referring to street use which is what I thought the earlier posters were talking about. I could see warping on the track if you abuse them.

I decided for the few times I'll track the car steels are fine. And you can actually afford to replace them when they wear out.

Both the BMW and GM literature on their CCBs do not claim better stopping distance. Just fade resistance and unsprung weight.

The old dealer training on CCBs said bmw uses a different master cylinder depending on on steel or CCBs so they can make the pedal feel the same. It doesn't seem like they do that now.

[shawnhayes]

Originally Posted by pmsteinm

The old dealer training on CCBs said bmw uses a different master cylinder depending on on steel or CCBs so they can make the pedal feel the same. It doesn't seem like they do that now.

The retrofit kit appears to have a different booster and master cylinder, but unknown if that goes forward on all the cars (from factory, for simplicity they might install all the same now, but I don't know).

Shawn

[Revan]

Originally Posted by Bsm550

I just did the m track day in Monticello and i could tell you that ccbs are a game changer

I'm actually heading up there tomorrow for two days of private in an M3. Supposed to be an amazing track from what the PC drivers told me.