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      02-26-2020, 11:47 AM   #89
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Originally Posted by Fuel-It! View Post
You are the one sharing false information and we specialize in fueling products not tuning boxes. Most of our customers run flash tunes.

BMW service flags any aftermarket wiring harness that goes to sensors under the hood. They are trained to check for these harnesses. Whether there is a box connected to the end or a bypass plug makes no difference to them they know it's been modified. So do yourself a favor and remove the entire thing or don't be surprised when you find out you can't turn back in your lease or your car has been flagged. Maybe your SA is "cool" and not documenting your car as a favor to you but that doesn't mean someone else there won't or if a corporate guy happens to be at the shop when your car is there.

Your products being sold on their website is the definition of a financial arrangement. Period. So your opinion is financially based on gain. Not mine.

I’ll have my BMW dealer and my Porsche dealer call you so you can direct their services going forward.
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      02-26-2020, 03:14 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by limeypride View Post
Exactly the same time it takes to remove the RC. Sorry, couldn't resist.

Before my back/neck went, I could do it in about 15-20 mins. Removal being a little quicker.

// EDIT: I should've added that this was on an F06 M6 GC (S63TU), not my F90s. However, the differences are subtle having watched my (young) mechanic/friend do it twice now.
I think you may be talking about the more "advanced" "4 – wire" installation and not just the basic "2 – wire" installation. And for clarification, I am talking about complete removal so that there is no hardware or software in the car. In other words can either JB4 or RC be set up to allow this to be done on a relatively easy and quick basis? Or will it be more involved for one or both units?

My initial inclination is to just stay stock until all of these and other issues have been sorted out, or until I decide to move to the next vehicle! The gains from the two piggies on supplied maps appear to be 40-50 rwhp and rwtrq on CA 91 octane.
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      02-26-2020, 04:03 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth7 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by limeypride View Post
Exactly the same time it takes to remove the RC. Sorry, couldn't resist.

Before my back/neck went, I could do it in about 15-20 mins. Removal being a little quicker.

// EDIT: I should've added that this was on an F06 M6 GC (S63TU), not my F90s. However, the differences are subtle having watched my (young) mechanic/friend do it twice now.
I think you may be talking about the more "advanced" "4 – wire" installation and not just the basic "2 – wire" installation. And for clarification, I am talking about complete removal so that there is no hardware or software in the car. In other words can either JB4 or RC be set up to allow this to be done on a relatively easy and quick basis? Or will it be more involved for one or both units?

My initial inclination is to just stay stock until all of these and other issues have been sorted out, or until I decide to move to the next vehicle! The gains from the two piggies on supplied maps appear to be 40-50 rwhp and rwtrq on CA 91 octane.
I was talking about the TMAP setup only—burn I'm not exactly mechanically inclined so perhaps I'm slow but it used to take me 15-20 mins. With 2x EWG and the OBD II connection, it's substantially longer.
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      08-22-2020, 11:35 PM   #92
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Posted this on the G30 forums mainly regarding softens between jb4 v flash tune but focus it would still be relevant here

The TLDR: JB4 and RACECHIP increase power with the exact same mechanism (tricking your ecu by manipulating map and boost sensor data) but the JB4 is a better product in that it monitors the effect of its changes (via obd2/CANBUS) and its ultimately able to make bigger/better changes because of this. The Racechip does the same "thing" as the JB4 but because it is running blind (can't monitor anything) the designers couldn't push the boundaries as much as JB4 (with no mods a B48/B58 can run +6psi boost vs stock while racechip GTS Black tops out at stock +3psi,which is equivalent to "map1 on JB4). For the almost the same price the JB4 is objectively better in every way because the JB4 has potential to grow with your car (by operating as a WMI controller or boost controller) whereas the Racechip has no purpose once you start going beyond your first few mods.


***

Main difference between a JB4 and a tune is the JB4 can only affect boost in a semi direct manner and a/f ratios / ignition timing in an extremely indirect manner (no matter what the dealers tell you).

A real tune can change everything that is "changeable" by an ecu (ignition timing, boost, a/f ratio, vanos which is cam timing and lift, throttle opening... all vanos engines still have a physical butterfly valve throttle, exhaust butterfly valves if you have it, etc.) it doesn't mean that you NEED to change these things and if you have a bad tune it can be worse than stock but assuming everything is done properly, you would rather have the ability to change these things than not, the stock ecu tune was optimized for a certain set of conditions that by definition you are stealing away from when you modify the car.

What any ecu does is take a bunch of inputs of sensors, compare them against a table of (what should I do if I see air temps here, rpm here, engine load here, driver pedal position here, etc ....) then do some things it looks up from a table "the tune " ( command a certain level of boost via the electronic waste gate, inject this much fuel, change ignition timing to this, use this vanos setting) while observing from other sensors whether things are safe and ok (measured air fuel ratio, exhaust temperature, boost measured, knock sensors, etc)

What the jb4 does is intercept the manifold air pressure and boost pressure sensor inputs into the ecu and tell them they are lower than they actually are so the stock ecu does not send a command to the waste gate to back off on the boost until much later than it otherwise would normally. That's it. That's how the jb4 makes power, full stop.

The problem is that ignition timing settings and to a certain extent vanos settings used by the ecu are now the settings that were optimized from the factory for 10psi of boost but in reality the boost level is 16psi or something. In the bad case scenario this is going to lead to knock (which the STOCK ECU will detect and retard timing). The best case scenario is you simply run suboptimal ignition timing and vanos which could be either (both) less smooth, less efficient (less power).


Air fuel ratio is a bit of a special case which I didn't include in the above because most modern engines run on closed loop cycle nearly all the time (it aims for 14.7 AFR nearly all the time and constantly checks the oxygen sensor to adjust the fueling to attain this) even when under load in high horsepower /throttle scenarios. In the old days turbo engines would just run rich in high throttle high boost situations (by operating open loop and commanding AFR of 9 or something) as the extra fuel being atomized in the intake charge would cool the intake charge and help prevent knocking. There's nothing about modern engines that would make this strategy not work, it's just bad for the environment so OEMs are highly disincentivized to go down this road in tuning strategy (something an aftermarket tuner has no issue with)

The JB4 hooks up to the obd2 and canbus so it had the ability to (listen) to the same sensors that the ecu is listening to but the jb4 has no way of actually changing AFR or ignition timing or vanos settings directly. In the above example of jb4 adding 6psi, let's say the ignition timing should be retarded 3 degrees or something compared to the stock timing in the same scenario the jb4 can't do this. It simply can't. The JB4 IS safer than other boost controllers that don't observe these settings because the JB4 can observe when things go wrong (it sees the stock ecu and "undo/back off" it's adjustments to the TMAP and boost sensors so the engine returns to "stock" conditions. This is a REACTIVE system not a PROTECTIVE one. I would also find it extremely dubious if someone claimed that the JB4 could predict the preconditions to knock occurring better than factory engineers (this would be the holy grail of tuning, to predict knock before it occurs, you wouldn't need a knock sensor now would u).

One might then ask, if the JB4 doesn't actually back off its adjustments until something bad actually occurs, and relies on the stock ecu to do so, how is it better than something like race chip which doesn't have this obd2/CANBUS listening system. Well consider the scenario where both systems are running the same setting (eg 6psi above stock boost) setting. When knock is detected the ecu will immediately back off timing for both cars. But it doesn't do it forever, knock is a rare thing for stock engines. The ecu will after a set amount of time return to its original programming. But we know the precursor to knock is highly likely to be because of the uprated boost conditions (in conjunctions with environmental factors that day, let's say it is really hot and dry day). As soon as the factory ecu returns to initial settings, knock occurs again. The jb4 can see (oh shit, knock is happening a lot in a short interval, maybe we should back off a bit, save this data in the logging file and let our user know, maybe only command +4psi instead), while the race chip will be happilly unaware and continue chugging along ignorantly. That's the reason why race chip doesn't add as much boost as jb4, racechip and jb4 does the same thing (manipulate what TMAP and boost sensor data the ecu "sees") but the jb4 is able to check its work whereas racechip cannot, so racechip engineers must specify a lower amount of excess boost it's system can "safely" provide.

An aftermarket tune is both better and worse than the jb4 in that factory engineers coded for a lot of those corner cases that took millions of dollars of development to find (those 1/100,000 scenarios). A JB4 "keeps" these settings intact but a custom tune wipes it out. At the end of the day, what's more important to you, that's something only you can decide for yourself.
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      08-22-2020, 11:59 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifeedge2k1 View Post
Posted this on the G30 forums mainly regarding softens between jb4 v flash tune but focus it would still be relevant here

The TLDR: JB4 and RACECHIP increase power with the exact same mechanism (tricking your ecu by manipulating map and boost sensor data) but the JB4 is a better product in that it monitors the effect of its changes (via obd2/CANBUS) and its ultimately able to make bigger/better changes because of this. The Racechip does the same "thing" as the JB4 but because it is running blind (can't monitor anything) the designers couldn't push the boundaries as much as JB4 (with no mods a B48/B58 can run +6psi boost vs stock while racechip GTS Black tops out at stock +3psi,which is equivalent to "map1 on JB4). For the almost the same price the JB4 is objectively better in every way because the JB4 has potential to grow with your car (by operating as a WMI controller or boost controller) whereas the Racechip has no purpose once you start going beyond your first few mods.


***

Main difference between a JB4 and a tune is the JB4 can only affect boost in a semi direct manner and a/f ratios / ignition timing in an extremely indirect manner (no matter what the dealers tell you).

A real tune can change everything that is "changeable" by an ecu (ignition timing, boost, a/f ratio, vanos which is cam timing and lift, throttle opening... all vanos engines still have a physical butterfly valve throttle, exhaust butterfly valves if you have it, etc.) it doesn't mean that you NEED to change these things and if you have a bad tune it can be worse than stock but assuming everything is done properly, you would rather have the ability to change these things than not, the stock ecu tune was optimized for a certain set of conditions that by definition you are stealing away from when you modify the car.

What any ecu does is take a bunch of inputs of sensors, compare them against a table of (what should I do if I see air temps here, rpm here, engine load here, driver pedal position here, etc ....) then do some things it looks up from a table "the tune " ( command a certain level of boost via the electronic waste gate, inject this much fuel, change ignition timing to this, use this vanos setting) while observing from other sensors whether things are safe and ok (measured air fuel ratio, exhaust temperature, boost measured, knock sensors, etc)

What the jb4 does is intercept the manifold air pressure and boost pressure sensor inputs into the ecu and tell them they are lower than they actually are so the stock ecu does not send a command to the waste gate to back off on the boost until much later than it otherwise would normally. That's it. That's how the jb4 makes power, full stop.

The problem is that ignition timing settings and to a certain extent vanos settings used by the ecu are now the settings that were optimized from the factory for 10psi of boost but in reality the boost level is 16psi or something. In the bad case scenario this is going to lead to knock (which the STOCK ECU will detect and retard timing). The best case scenario is you simply run suboptimal ignition timing and vanos which could be either (both) less smooth, less efficient (less power).


Air fuel ratio is a bit of a special case which I didn't include in the above because most modern engines run on closed loop cycle nearly all the time (it aims for 14.7 AFR nearly all the time and constantly checks the oxygen sensor to adjust the fueling to attain this) even when under load in high horsepower /throttle scenarios. In the old days turbo engines would just run rich in high throttle high boost situations (by operating open loop and commanding AFR of 9 or something) as the extra fuel being atomized in the intake charge would cool the intake charge and help prevent knocking. There's nothing about modern engines that would make this strategy not work, it's just bad for the environment so OEMs are highly disincentivized to go down this road in tuning strategy (something an aftermarket tuner has no issue with)

The JB4 hooks up to the obd2 and canbus so it had the ability to (listen) to the same sensors that the ecu is listening to but the jb4 has no way of actually changing AFR or ignition timing or vanos settings directly. In the above example of jb4 adding 6psi, let's say the ignition timing should be retarded 3 degrees or something compared to the stock timing in the same scenario the jb4 can't do this. It simply can't. The JB4 IS safer than other boost controllers that don't observe these settings because the JB4 can observe when things go wrong (it sees the stock ecu and "undo/back off" it's adjustments to the TMAP and boost sensors so the engine returns to "stock" conditions. This is a REACTIVE system not a PROTECTIVE one. I would also find it extremely dubious if someone claimed that the JB4 could predict the preconditions to knock occurring better than factory engineers (this would be the holy grail of tuning, to predict knock before it occurs, you wouldn't need a knock sensor now would u).

One might then ask, if the JB4 doesn't actually back off its adjustments until something bad actually occurs, and relies on the stock ecu to do so, how is it better than something like race chip which doesn't have this obd2/CANBUS listening system. Well consider the scenario where both systems are running the same setting (eg 6psi above stock boost) setting. When knock is detected the ecu will immediately back off timing for both cars. But it doesn't do it forever, knock is a rare thing for stock engines. The ecu will after a set amount of time return to its original programming. But we know the precursor to knock is highly likely to be because of the uprated boost conditions (in conjunctions with environmental factors that day, let's say it is really hot and dry day). As soon as the factory ecu returns to initial settings, knock occurs again. The jb4 can see (oh shit, knock is happening a lot in a short interval, maybe we should back off a bit, save this data in the logging file and let our user know, maybe only command +4psi instead), while the race chip will be happilly unaware and continue chugging along ignorantly. That's the reason why race chip doesn't add as much boost as jb4, racechip and jb4 does the same thing (manipulate what TMAP and boost sensor data the ecu "sees") but the jb4 is able to check its work whereas racechip cannot, so racechip engineers must specify a lower amount of excess boost it's system can "safely" provide.

An aftermarket tune is both better and worse than the jb4 in that factory engineers coded for a lot of those corner cases that took millions of dollars of development to find (those 1/100,000 scenarios). A JB4 "keeps" these settings intact but a custom tune wipes it out. At the end of the day, what's more important to you, that's something only you can decide for yourself.
The TL;DR at the top was appreciated. Great summary!

I read most of the rest and agree. However, the JB4 can also take direct control of the wastegates in its later guises. This alone has upped its performance-gain potential dramatically.

For me, though—I feel we've hit a currently insurmountable ceiling (for piggybacks I mean); one owned by the TCU. Without control of the TCU, ICEs with their necessary transmissions are artificially (or perhaps necessarily... that's unclear to me for now) limited. The F90's TCU has apparently been cracked but, alas, not the M8. That's where flash tunes earn their money... and risk<->reward advantage.
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      08-23-2020, 01:31 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limeypride View Post
The TL;DR at the top was appreciated. Great summary!

I read most of the rest and agree. However, the JB4 can also take direct control of the wastegates in its later guises. This alone has upped its performance-gain potential dramatically.

For me, though—I feel we've hit a currently insurmountable ceiling (for piggybacks I mean); one owned by the TCU. Without control of the TCU, ICEs with their necessary transmissions are artificially (or perhaps necessarily... that's unclear to me for now) limited. The F90's TCU has apparently been cracked but, alas, not the M8. That's where flash tunes earn their money... and risk<->reward advantage.


Yea. The EWG controller is an addiction on top of the base JB4 unit which makes the process of controlling boost much more direct.

I don’t have an M5, only a lowly 520i (though in HK this cost upwards of 70k usd...) so I don’t have the need for an EWG add on yet given I cant add supporting mods without voiding warranty (next 2 years can’t pass quick enough) Hence I didn’t include it in my original wall-of-text

I installed a racechip for all of 1 week before I immediately got a jb4 after coming to my senses and I would strongly encourage anyone to bypass racechip/jb+ entirely and go straight to the jb4 for flexibility and future proofing it provides.
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      08-23-2020, 06:27 AM   #95
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shameless plug, i have an RC for sale. brandd new.
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      08-23-2020, 07:12 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onfireX5 View Post
10 seconds to put the bypass plug in. That is all I ever did for service work. Makes it pure stock for DME updates by the dealer, etc.
Problem with this is it takes just one service tech to go... “wtf is this?”

Make a note of it on the record, take a couple pictures, ..... and ....... bye bye warranty when you go to make a claim. They’ll never bring it up to you when you are just doing regular service, it’ll just be something they bring up if u need warranty work.
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      08-23-2020, 07:25 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knifeedge2k1 View Post
Problem with this is it takes just one service tech to go... “wtf is this?”

Make a note of it on the record, take a couple pictures, ..... and ....... bye bye warranty when you go to make a claim. They’ll never bring it up to you when you are just doing regular service, it’ll just be something they bring up if u need warranty work.
The bypass plug is laughable, anyone that leaves the harness connected with that bypass plugged in is asking for trouble.

It is like leaving am empty baggy outside a drug den.
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      08-23-2020, 08:15 AM   #98
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[QUOTE=Knifeedge2k1;26596786]Posted this on the G30 forums mainly regarding softens between jb4 v flash tune but focus it would still be relevant here

The TLDR: JB4 and RACECHIP increase power with the exact same mechanism (tricking your ecu by manipulating map and boost sensor data) but the JB4 is a better product in that it monitors the effect of its changes (via obd2/CANBUS) and its ultimately able to make bigger/better changes because of this. The Racechip does the same "thing" as the JB4 but because it is running blind (can't monitor anything) the designers couldn't push the boundaries as much as JB4 (with no mods a B48/B58 can run +6psi boost vs stock while racechip GTS Black tops out at stock +3psi,which is equivalent to "map1 on JB4). For the almost the same price the JB4 is objectively better in every way because the JB4 has potential to grow with your car (by operating as a WMI controller or boost controller) whereas the Racechip has no purpose once you start going beyond your first few mods.


***

Main difference between a JB4 and a tune is the JB4 can only affect boost in a semi direct manner and a/f ratios / ignition timing in an extremely indirect manner (no matter what the dealers tell you).

A real tune can change everything that is "changeable" by an ecu (ignition timing, boost, a/f ratio, vanos which is cam timing and lift, throttle opening... all vanos engines still have a physical butterfly valve throttle, exhaust butterfly valves if you have it, etc.) it doesn't mean that you NEED to change these things and if you have a bad tune it can be worse than stock but assuming everything is done properly, you would rather have the ability to change these things than not, the stock ecu tune was optimized for a certain set of conditions that by definition you are stealing away from when you modify the car.

What any ecu does is take a bunch of inputs of sensors, compare them against a table of (what should I do if I see air temps here, rpm here, engine load here, driver pedal position here, etc ....) then do some things it looks up from a table "the tune " ( command a certain level of boost via the electronic waste gate, inject this much fuel, change ignition timing to this, use this vanos setting) while observing from other sensors whether things are safe and ok (measured air fuel ratio, exhaust temperature, boost measured, knock sensors, etc)

What the jb4 does is intercept the manifold air pressure and boost pressure sensor inputs into the ecu and tell them they are lower than they actually are so the stock ecu does not send a command to the waste gate to back off on the boost until much later than it otherwise would normally. That's it. That's how the jb4 makes power, full stop.

The problem is that ignition timing settings and to a certain extent vanos settings used by the ecu are now the settings that were optimized from the factory for 10psi of boost but in reality the boost level is 16psi or something. In the bad case scenario this is going to lead to knock (which the STOCK ECU will detect and retard timing). The best case scenario is you simply run suboptimal ignition timing and vanos which could be either (both) less smooth, less efficient (less power).


Air fuel ratio is a bit of a special case which I didn't include in the above because most modern engines run on closed loop cycle nearly all the time (it aims for 14.7 AFR nearly all the time and constantly checks the oxygen sensor to adjust the fueling to attain this) even when under load in high horsepower /throttle scenarios. In the old days turbo engines would just run rich in high throttle high boost situations (by operating open loop and commanding AFR of 9 or something) as the extra fuel being atomized in the intake charge would cool the intake charge and help prevent knocking. There's nothing about modern engines that would make this strategy not work, it's just bad for the environment so OEMs are highly disincentivized to go down this road in tuning strategy (something an aftermarket tuner has no issue with)

The JB4 hooks up to the obd2 and canbus so it had the ability to (listen) to the same sensors that the ecu is listening to but the jb4 has no way of actually changing AFR or ignition timing or vanos settings directly. In the above example of jb4 adding 6psi, let's say the ignition timing should be retarded 3 degrees or something compared to the stock timing in the same scenario the jb4 can't do this. It simply can't. The JB4 IS safer than other boost controllers that don't observe these settings because the JB4 can observe when things go wrong (it sees the stock ecu and "undo/back off" it's adjustments to the TMAP and boost sensors so the engine returns to "stock" conditions. This is a REACTIVE system not a PROTECTIVE one. I would also find it extremely dubious if someone claimed that the JB4 could predict the preconditions to knock occurring better than factory engineers (this would be the holy grail of tuning, to predict knock before it occurs, you wouldn't need a knock sensor now would u).

One might then ask, if the JB4 doesn't actually back off its adjustments until something bad actually occurs, and relies on the stock ecu to do so, how is it better than something like race chip which doesn't have this obd2/CANBUS listening system. Well consider the scenario where both systems are running the same setting (eg 6psi above stock boost) setting. When knock is detected the ecu will immediately back off timing for both cars. But it doesn't do it forever, knock is a rare thing for stock engines. The ecu will after a set amount of time return to its original programming. But we know the precursor to knock is highly likely to be because of the uprated boost conditions (in conjunctions with environmental factors that day, let's say it is really hot and dry day). As soon as the factory ecu returns to initial settings, knock occurs again. The jb4 can see (oh shit, knock is happening a lot in a short interval, maybe we should back off a bit, save this data in the logging file and let our user know, maybe only command +4psi instead), while the race chip will be happilly unaware and continue chugging along ignorantly. That's the reason why race chip doesn't add as much boost as jb4, racechip and jb4 does the same thing (manipulate what TMAP and boost sensor data the ecu "sees") but the jb4 is able to check its work whereas racechip cannot, so racechip engineers must specify a lower amount of excess boost it's system can "safely" provide.

An aftermarket tune is both better and worse than the jb4 in that factory engineers coded for a lot of those corner cases that took millions of dollars of development to find (those 1/100,0is
00 scenarios). A JB4 "keeps" these settings intact but a custom tune wipes it out. At the end of the day, what's more important to you, that's something only you can decide for yourself.

“A JB4 "keeps" these settings intact but a custom tune wipes it out”.

A sophisticated custom tune can keep safety settings. Some can actually add safety protocols not available from the factory.

Biggest problem with custom tunes, is they are now easily detected and are warranty busters.
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      08-23-2020, 08:23 AM   #99
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Originally Posted by DannyA View Post
The bypass plug is laughable, anyone that leaves the harness connected with that bypass plugged in is asking for trouble.

It is like leaving am empty baggy outside a drug den.
Dealer specific. I used them for 4 years without issue. Dealer was up front. No box , no problem, we do not care about wires. Another dealer would use the bypass to punish you. Was nice to have for insurance Incase the box ever malfunctioned Plug it in and keep going on a trip.

With warranty becoming a major issue. Be ready to pay for any boost mods.
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      08-23-2020, 08:24 AM   #100
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Boy, i have a lot to learn about tuning. Ive never heard of these terms or piggyback chips. I tune my BMW's with Dinan and i didn't have to do anything when i take it in for service. I can understand the chip if you lease but what about the people that own, wouldn't you want to do an ECU flash?
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      08-23-2020, 08:28 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by onfireX5 View Post
Dealer was up front. No box , no problem

Yes, but are you certain if you went in with a 30k new engine claim he would still say the same?
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      08-23-2020, 08:32 AM   #102
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Yes, but are you certain if you went in with a 30k new engine claim he would still say the same?
Who is certain, other than the dealer himself?

Pay to play is the only known.

Blow an engine, be ready to pay up. If the dealer covers it, Happy Birthday.
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      08-23-2020, 08:56 AM   #103
MikeStammer
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Originally Posted by Turbobusa View Post
Boy, i have a lot to learn about tuning. Ive never heard of these terms or piggyback chips. I tune my BMW's with Dinan and i didn't have to do anything when i take it in for service. I can understand the chip if you lease but what about the people that own, wouldn't you want to do an ECU flash?
I own and won't do an ecu flash until out of, or closer to end of, warranty. to me, it's not worth the risk of them not covering something.
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      08-23-2020, 09:15 AM   #104
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Who is certain, other than the dealer himself?

Pay to play is the only known.

Blow an engine, be ready to pay up. If the dealer covers it, Happy Birthday.
Totally agree, I was more stating with just bunging the end of a harness, surely you are asking for the later to be much less likely. They know for certain it was running a piggy, they don't even need to check the logs.
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Last edited by DannyA; 08-23-2020 at 12:20 PM..
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      08-23-2020, 12:14 PM   #105
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Totally agree, I more stating with just bunging the end of a harness, surely you are asking for the later to be much less likely. They know for certain it was running a piggy, they don't even need to check the logs.
Agreed. Telemetrics has changed the game for piggy back modules and flash tunes. You can not hide either.

If we want 100% no hassle warranties, we have to keep the engine management OEM or find a tune that comes with a warranty that will actually supersede OEM and actually pay out if something fails.
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      08-23-2020, 12:21 PM   #106
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A little birdie told me Noelle offer a warranty
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      08-23-2020, 12:24 PM   #107
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A little birdie told me Noelle offer a warranty
i dont know when they added dyno results, but those appear to be on their site now, for the F90 anyways
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      08-23-2020, 11:54 PM   #108
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbobusa View Post
Boy, i have a lot to learn about tuning. Ive never heard of these terms or piggyback chips. I tune my BMW's with Dinan and i didn't have to do anything when i take it in for service. I can understand the chip if you lease but what about the people that own, wouldn't you want to do an ECU flash?
I own and won't do an ecu flash until out of, or closer to end of, warranty. to me, it's not worth the risk of them not covering something.
Not sure about the logic here, if you mod it after warranty, it's on you if something happens; if you mod it before warranty, again it's on you if something happens; same thing no matter when you mod it
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      08-24-2020, 06:15 AM   #109
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not worth me having to pay out of pocket durng warranty period. I don't mod anything outside of some coding type stuff.

when the warranty is up, maybe, since, as you said, it's on me for costs at that point.

missing before warranty is up takes away the warranty, but after it's already lapsed not so much.
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      08-24-2020, 08:10 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brava09 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeStammer View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbobusa View Post
Boy, i have a lot to learn about tuning. Ive never heard of these terms or piggyback chips. I tune my BMW's with Dinan and i didn't have to do anything when i take it in for service. I can understand the chip if you lease but what about the people that own, wouldn't you want to do an ECU flash?
I own and won't do an ecu flash until out of, or closer to end of, warranty. to me, it's not worth the risk of them not covering something.
Not sure about the logic here, if you mod it after warranty, it's on you if something happens; if you mod it before warranty, again it's on you if something happens; same thing no matter when you mod it
Im with you on this one. Either way, you still pay for the damage. With or without warranty.
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