[ozy]

Originally Posted by kdeleon

Here are my settings on the equalizer. I tried not going so heavy handed. I tried to smooth things out versus completely taking out the peaks or nulls. The ones that looked more extreme are 2 notches up or down and the one around 100 hz, is only 1 notch.

Looks very good and I’m sure it sounds very organic... but one must keep in mind that these settings ought to be different sounding with engine on and road noise ,that results in higher noise floor....

[Bluehinder]

I bought the mic and program after reading this thread.

Audiophile here looking for an excuse to buy a new toy.

[kdeleon]

Originally Posted by ozy

Looks very good and I’m sure it sounds very organic... but one must keep in mind that these settings ought to be different sounding with engine on and road noise ,that results in higher noise floor....

Completely agree but with the engine on, there were too many variables for me to account for. Like a cold start will have the engine rev higher vs a warmed up engine or concrete vs asphalt and at what speed.

At an off position, it at least gave me a starting point and you can go from there.

[kdeleon]

If you were curious, here is a plot with the eq flat. The equalizer simply doesn't offer enough points for us to correct much. But my main focus area was around the 1K and 2K area. If you look at my settings in the previous post, I tried to bring down 1k and push up 2k. The after plot looks pretty much the same but instead of an 8 db drop, it is slightly smoothed to a about a 4 db change. In audio terms that is quite a bit.

In practice, when driving, just a slightly more scientific way to adjust the equalizer than turning up the bass and the treble (something I have seen done in many cars).

Hope you found this at least interesting.

[ozy]

Originally Posted by Bluehinder

I bought the mic and program after reading this thread.

Audiophile here looking for an excuse to buy a new toy.

...like we need one ,right?

[ozy]

Originally Posted by kdeleon

If you were curious, here is a plot with the eq flat. The equalizer simply doesn't offer enough points for us to correct much. But my main focus area was around the 1K and 2K area. If you look at my settings in the previous post, I tried to bring down 1k and push up 2k. The after plot looks pretty much the same but instead of an 8 db drop, it is slightly smoothed to a about a 4 db change. In audio terms that is quite a bit.

In practice, when driving, just a slightly more scientific way to adjust the equalizer than turning up the bass and the treble (something I have seen done in many cars).

Hope you found this at least interesting.

I love what you did with the EQ, I’ll practically copy it ,if I may ,if nothing else ,as a benchmark point.
Most importantly, how does it sound? And did you use any break in cd/s to warm up the system?

[Bluehinder]

Originally Posted by kdeleon

If you were curious, here is a plot with the eq flat. The equalizer simply doesn't offer enough points for us to correct much. But my main focus area was around the 1K and 2K area. If you look at my settings in the previous post, I tried to bring down 1k and push up 2k. The after plot looks pretty much the same but instead of an 8 db drop, it is slightly smoothed to a about a 4 db change. In audio terms that is quite a bit.

In practice, when driving, just a slightly more scientific way to adjust the equalizer than turning up the bass and the treble (something I have seen done in many cars).

Hope you found this at least interesting.

What did you use to generate a frequency sweep? Pink noise I assume, but how did you get it in the system? CD with signal, signal generator plugged into the system? How did you generate the test signal to adjust?

I've got my mic coming Tuesday and generating the test signal is the one thing I haven't figured out.

Thanks, appreciate any tips.

[kdeleon]

Originally Posted by Bluehinder

What did you use to generate a frequency sweep? Pink noise I assume, but how did you get it in the system? CD with signal, signal generator plugged into the system? How did you generate the test signal to adjust?

I've got my mic coming Tuesday and generating the test signal is the one thing I haven't figured out.

Thanks, appreciate any tips.

I think Audio Tools can generate the noise. But I was lazy to figure out how to connect it directly to my system. What I ended up doing was downloading a Pink noise file from Amazon. It was like $.99. I put it on my iPhone. I connect my phone through CarPlay or whatever way you connect your phone to the car. Then play the sound. I run the SPL to set a reference level of about 70 db just for consistency. And then go from there.

Expert tip: I was told by a speaker designer to make sure to use uncorrelated pink noise for the most accurate results.

[Jamesmick]

Originally Posted by kdeleon

Here are my settings on the equalizer. I tried not going so heavy handed. I tried to smooth things out versus completely taking out the peaks or nulls. The ones that looked more extreme are 2 notches up or down and the one around 100 hz, is only 1 notch.

Thanks!!

[Bluehinder]

Isn't an mp3 file by definition compromised? It have to be FLAC or lossless. There is a $15 CD test disc of pink noise on Amazon and Ebay that would seem to be better. Or the Stereophile test CD.

Probably doesn't matter given all the variables, but for us engineering/scientist types it would be more fun to use the CD.

I know Audio Tools is a good generator. Could you stream the signal over Bluetooth while measuring? The CD seems the simplest solution.

[kdeleon]

Originally Posted by Bluehinder

Isn't an mp3 file by definition compromised? It have to be FLAC or lossless. There is a $15 CD test disc of pink noise on Amazon and Ebay that would seem to be better. Or the Stereophile test CD.

Probably doesn't matter given all the variables, but for us engineering/scientist types it would be more fun to use the CD.

I know Audio Tools is a good generator. Could you stream the signal over Bluetooth while measuring? The CD seems the simplest solution.

I think my mp3 came from that test disk that is on Amazon, considering that is where I bought the file from and that is the only result for uncorrelated pink noise. But you are right, CD would be best. I just was super impatient and have yet to go back around and correct things.

Other things are too much hassle. But maybe I can try it later tonight to do it directly from Audio Tools.

Edit: I checked a response curve I had for my main system. One of the curves generated was from an automated equalizer vs this MP3 and both produced something that looks almost identical. Of course, there were some variances but the main peaks and valleys were captured on both. So I wouldn't worry too much about the mp3 lossy file especially with what you are saying, there are too many other variables. Namely a big V8 sitting right in front of the stereo.

[Bluehinder]

Right on.

[ksoze]

Originally Posted by kdeleon

Here are my settings on the equalizer. I tried not going so heavy handed. I tried to smooth things out versus completely taking out the peaks or nulls. The ones that looked more extreme are 2 notches up or down and the one around 100 hz, is only 1 notch.

What do you have the tone settings set to with these EQ settings. All flat?

[kdeleon]

Originally Posted by ksoze

What do you have the tone settings set to with these EQ settings. All flat?

I only briefly tried all them and then settled on Studio. Sounded the best to me in my quick test and just left it. I spent more time playing with the EQ settings.

[ksoze]

Originally Posted by kdeleon

I only briefly tried all them and then settled on Studio. Sounded the best to me in my quick test and just left it. I spent more time playing with the EQ settings.

Thanks, I meant treble and bass.

[kdeleon]

Originally Posted by ksoze

Thanks, I meant treble and bass.

Sorry, misunderstood. I only tried upping the bass, but I didn't like it. More about preference. It felt like I was starting to cross the line to boomy (again with the engine off). Some might prefer it. I never really played with the treble as the roll off seemed appropriate.

[stbm5]

Where did you place your mic? Wondering how the graph would look from placed on center armrest versus ear level of the drivers seat..

[kdeleon]

Originally Posted by stbm5

Where did you place your mic? Wondering how the graph would look from placed on center armrest versus ear level of the drivers seat..

I was told to start the measure (using averaging in AudioTools) in the primary listening position, then go ahead and move the mic back and forth, up and down, left and right. Basically all around. And that is what I did. Driving positions, only a few inches to the door and then mainly toward the passenger in addition to up and down slightly and back and forth.

I assume there would be some change in the dead center. I just focused on the drivers seat as that is where I am. My passengers are free to take their own measurements and make recommendations.

[MF Larry]

my system in my e93 was insane, my 550 sucked and my f10 sucked and my f90 sucks, youd think the price of the car they would give you a good sound system, its crap

[tdlondon]

Got my M5 just yesterday. Really disappointed with the B&W for the money they charge. My old 997 with Bose had more kick in it. The B&W has a lot of purity for unplugged, jazz and classical. But it sucks for rock music. Bass is awful. I saw some of you decided to add a subwoofer. How complex is that to make it happen, wire it in?

[ksoze]

Originally Posted by tdlondon

But it sucks for rock music. Bass is awful.

Really? Did you set some of the EQ and tone settings to increase the bass? If the B&W bass "sucks", I would not want to be in a car that does not "suck".

[stbm5]

Originally Posted by ksoze

Really? Did you set some of the EQ and tone settings to increase the bass? If the B&W bass "sucks", I would not want to be in a car that does not "suck".

i agree. i don't think the B&W is the best ever but it certainly doesnt suck and is a vast improvement over the HK.