[ResIpsaLoquitur]

Coming back to this older thread to share an update since there always so many questions about BavSound.

I installed my most recent warranty Under Seat Ghost Subwoofer Kit (described above in this thread) a couple of months ago. After approximately 100 hours of listening, I got in the car yesterday and played various genres of music for the duration of my 90 minute drive.

The entire set up just now sounds like everything has meshed together, and I am getting 40 to 50% louder bass than I was getting just last week.

As I have stated before, the shipping insert says the subs need about 12 hours to break in. I have suggested something more like 20 hours. I’ll say now that 20 hours is the initial break in it seems, and the 100 hour mark is where you really feel a difference.

This is the second set that has fallen on this exact timeline. So for those of you who feel like you didn’t get much difference, give it closer to 100 hours for “full” break in and for the whole system to sound cohesive. It sounds pretty good now if increased bass is what you’re looking for!

[RalphT5]

Just wish Bavsound had an amp upgrade for the F90. Been pretty happy with the subs.

[ResIpsaLoquitur]

Originally Posted by RalphT5

Just wish Bavsound had an amp upgrade for the F90. Been pretty happy with the subs.

Same. I wish the Revenant Pro they sell was compatible with audio systems other than HiFi. Figuring out a new plug and play (or as close to it as possible) has been on my long term list of things to do with this car. There is certainly more RMS power in th Ghost Subs that could be squeezed out with a little more juice behind it. With the way it sounds now, coupled with a more powerful amp, I wouldn’t even be upset that I lost BW audio to Covid.

[subterFUSE]

The amp/DSP are the weak link on the stereo. Without delay compensation, individual speaker EQ, and active crossover control you can never get the full potential out of a car system.

[RalphT5]

So is there a solution that doesn’t break the bank?

[subterFUSE]

Yeah. Buy a different car that is easier to upgrade the stereo. 😆

[ResIpsaLoquitur]

Originally Posted by subterFUSE

Yeah. Buy a different car that is easier to upgrade the stereo. 😆

I’ve said this before, but I’ll say it again. I know you’re an audiophile and your ears have high standards. But most of us are not (and I admittedly certainly am not, and just want a reasonably good sounding system to enjoy in a car that we otherwise absolutely adore (again, myself included). Your approach to the situation is all or nothing. For those of us that want something decent to pretty good, a lot of the options in the market, including BavSound, are an at least decent solution. No one is here is saying spend $10k to get a reasonably decent system. Most of us are trying to spend a reasonable amount of money and get a reasonably good audio system.

Even though I am nowhere near as knowledgeable as you in this department, I also agree that the amp is in fact the weak link.

[RalphT5]

Originally Posted by subterFUSE

Yeah. Buy a different car that is easier to upgrade the stereo. 😆

Well, considering I bought the car in September and I'm really happy with pretty much everything except for the sound system, I'm not quite ready to buy something else. So given that, is there a way to upgrade the amplifier for < $2k?

[ResIpsaLoquitur]

Originally Posted by RalphT5

Well, considering I bought the car in September and I'm really happy with pretty much everything except for the sound system, I'm not quite ready to buy something else. So given that, is there a way to upgrade the amplifier for < $2k?

Audiotec Fischer (the German company who actually manufactures most of BavSound’s products), has the MatchUp series for use in BMW cars with HK systems. The entry level models start at around $1100. They have amps that they say are plug and play, but every time I have tried to research into getting one, I’ve walked away confused. This may be due to the fact that I am not an audiophile and don’t know exactly what I am looking for. They offer such specialized products for some applications that it’s beyond my understanding. Reaching out to them for guidance has been on my to do list for a while.

That’s a great place to start if you have some knowledge about audio systems and amps.

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/amplifiers/

[RalphT5]

Originally Posted by ResIpsaLoquitur

Audiotec Fischer (the German company who actually manufactures most of BavSound’s products), has the MatchUp series for use in BMW cars with HK systems. The entry level models start at around $1100. They have amps that they say are plug and play, but every time I have tried to research into getting one, I’ve walked away confused. This may be due to the fact that I am not an audiophile and don’t know exactly what I am looking for. They offer such specialized products for some applications that it’s beyond my understanding. Reaching out to them for guidance has been on my to do list for a while.

That’s a great place to start if you have some knowledge about audio systems and amps.

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/amplifiers/

Thanks! I sent them a note via their website about upgrading the HK system. I'll let you know what I hear back.

[ResIpsaLoquitur]

Originally Posted by RalphT5

Thanks! I sent them a note via their website about upgrading the HK system. I'll let you know what I hear back.

You’re welcome! Please do!

[RalphT5]

Well, I didn't hear back from Fischer, but I did find a local company that sells their equipment. I contacted them, gave them my VIN, and they came up with an upgrade for my car. It uses the MATCH UP 10DSP and the MATCH PP BMW 1.9 RAM-HK. The cost is $1600 for the equipment and another $800 for the install. I will probably go for it in the not distant future.

[ResIpsaLoquitur]

Originally Posted by RalphT5

Well, I didn't hear back from Fischer, but I did find a local company that sells their equipment. I contacted them, gave them my VIN, and they came up with an upgrade for my car. It uses the MATCH UP 10DSP and the MATCH PP BMW 1.9 RAM-HK. The cost is $1600 for the equipment and another $800 for the install. I will probably go for it in the not distant future.

Thank you so much for reporting back! I am going to look into these components today as well. Do you think you’re just going to replace the amp and call it a day?

I think I know the answer to this, but just to triple check — you have an LCI that retained HK except for BavSound Ghost subs, right? Just trying to figure out if you and I are in the exact same situation so I can act accordingly. I want to proceed with this setup as well.

[RalphT5]

‘23 model with the Bavsound Subs. I didn’t upgrade the rest of the speakers. I plan on just replacing the amp with this setup in the next month or so.

[ResIpsaLoquitur]

Originally Posted by RalphT5

‘23 model with the Bavsound Subs. I didn’t upgrade the rest of the speakers. I plan on just replacing the amp with this setup in the next month or so.

Awesome, thank you very much for confirming! Same situation as me.

[ResIpsaLoquitur]

RalphT5, I started doing some research and got into some very technical threads about tuning the amp and ended up right back in my place of extreme confusion. Is the installer you found going to tune the amp for you as well?

[RalphT5]

Originally Posted by ResIpsaLoquitur

RalphT5, I started doing some research and got into some very technical threads about tuning the amp and ended up right back in my place of extreme confusion. Is the installer you found going to tune the amp for you as well?

Yes. He's charging $300 for the DSP tune. The $300 is included in the $800 I quoted earlier.

[ResIpsaLoquitur]

Originally Posted by RalphT5

Yes. He's charging $300 for the DSP tune. The $300 is included in the $800 I quoted earlier.

Thank you so much!

[spuntyb]

I couldn’t even get the subs installed. Went step by step, and not only are the screws virtually impossible to get to without ripping up the floor, once I got them all out the sub itself wouldn’t budge, like it was glued in, not clipped. No way I’m paying to have my shop install them, not worth it. Going to send them back and save my $ for B&W on my next car in a couple years.

[UglyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by RalphT5

‘23 model with the Bavsound Subs. I didn’t upgrade the rest of the speakers. I plan on just replacing the amp with this setup in the next month or so.

It is a huge difference in a positive way to replace all speakers - everyone that hears mine can’t believe the difference than stock HK…

If anyone is in South Orange County and on the fence, happy to let you hear firsthand.

Disclaimer - no affiliation with company - just an old musician…

[ResIpsaLoquitur]

Originally Posted by spuntyb

I couldn’t even get the subs installed. Went step by step, and not only are the screws virtually impossible to get to without ripping up the floor, once I got them all out the sub itself wouldn’t budge, like it was glued in, not clipped. No way I’m paying to have my shop install them, not worth it. Going to send them back and save my $ for B&W on my next car in a couple years.

Screws are definitely tough. I recommend adjusting your seat as necessary to get to the four bolts that hold down the seat rails. Then slide the seat all the way forward until it stops before pushing the seat back as close to the rear seat as possible. It will give you more room to not have to go at the grille screws and sub screws at an angle. Prying the carpet before doing so totally helps, and you can get it back into place so you can’t tell it’s been pried. There is a green gasket around the sun that keeps it against the sun enclosure. It’s snug, but there is no glue or clips. You can used a pry tool (or even a fork if you’re gentle) to get the OE sub to separate from the housing without removing the enclosure.

If you decide to try it again, reach out and I’ll help you as much as I can!

EDIT — Sorry, that should have said “sub” and “sub enclosure” obviously.

[spuntyb]

Originally Posted by ResIpsaLoquitur

Screws are definitely tough. I recommend adjusting your seat as necessary to get to the four bolts that hold down the seat rails. Then slide the seat all the way forward until it stops before pushing the seat back as close to the rear seat as possible. It will give you more room to not have to go at the grille screws and sub screws at an angle. Prying the carpet before doing so totally helps, and you can get it back into place so you can’t tell it’s been pried. There is a green gasket around the sun that keeps it against the sun enclosure. It’s snug, but there is no glue or clips. You can used a pry tool (or even a fork if you’re gentle) to get the OE sub to separate from the housing without removing the enclosure.

If you decide to try it again, reach out and I’ll help you as much as I can!

Thanks for this. I looked it up after since it was the weekend, and couldn’t get Bavsound on the horn. I wasn’t too worried about it anyways, was a good excuse to wrench on the car for a bit, and maybe get a little extra punch. I thought about adding it to the list for my shop to do, but just figured it was like $500 I could just save towards my next sound system (plus the hour or two of labor they would have charged lol).

Thanks!