02-13-2014, 07:31 PM | #45 | |
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My NA mods were tame, headers, exhaust, intake, pulleys, M50 manifold swap...maybe 250whp on a Dynojet, but never a hiccup up till 70k when I went boost. As I said below, stock headgasket and everything held for 12k T miles 13psi. I never blew up, never overheated, I only put on a cut ring gasket so I could run more boost and wanted to crack 500hp. I am not talking here about the typical stage 1 non intercooled install running 6psi and barely cracking 300whp. But to close in much of the gap to an S54, M50 swap, headers and what not, 250whp, still damn reliable and with less maintenance. My car at that power level was an easy high 12 second car.
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'98 Dinan/RMS stage 2+(VAC cams, CES Cutring etc) '15 Buick Regal "T"(wife) '06 Saab 9-5 Combi 5mt (full suspension, LSD, clipped turbo etc) |
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02-13-2014, 07:36 PM | #46 | |
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Oil change - I run Mobil1 0W40 (let's not start an oil thread). $55 for 10 qts. Add a quart every 2k miles? Never. Only had to add 0.5 qts only once at 4k miles. Throttle valve actuator - $800. Yea that hurt, but I DIY'ed. As someone said, walnut cleaning costs that much so we're even. Spark plugs (maintenance) - $90 Rear pads Tires, but I don't think this should count That's all I've done to my car. I think that's more than acceptable. Car runs like an absolute champ at close to 80k miles. OP, depending on your budget, I'd go either E36 or E9x. I was originally going to go for an E46 but decided to skip it, just too much of a maintenance hog for me personally.
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16 F82 M4 GTS, Black Sapphire/Black, DCT 08 E92 M3, Sparkling Graphite/Bamboo Beige, 6MT 07 E85 Z4M Roadster, Alpine White/Red, 6MT 99 E36 M3, Techno Violet/Dove Grey, 6MT |
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02-13-2014, 07:55 PM | #47 |
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The word 'never' is a very specific word. Throw on suspension, LSD, and bushings and you're there. Biggest difference that most don't know about is the steering rack, which is swappable.
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03-10-2014, 09:17 PM | #50 | |
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I think on late cycle you are good on M3s |
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03-10-2014, 10:12 PM | #52 |
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I have to say NA M motors by far are the most reliable, by no means bulletproof. Stock vs stock my N54 (same motor as per 2011 335i) has cost me headache with injectors (even before my tune), and now my fuel pump is going. Don't even mention the summer months here in Vegas at 118 deg F. Had an 08 E93, and now my 2012 E92(gets tracked heavily) and no issues with either Ms. My wife's X5M has gone through quite a few injector as well. It's getting very tiring. Look through the forums and compare reliablility issues of NA vs FI BMWs, and you'll definitely see a difference. All my injectors especially (especially the ones I had to pay for is adding up enough to make up for the price difference on the long run).
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03-11-2014, 06:04 AM | #53 |
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M235-HA! Just kidding!
I don't know which one is the most reliable but I know that E46 M3 isn't it and it requires a huge level of responsibility (if you're a DIY guy) OR an equally huge wallet. Well, this is based from my friend's experiences. |
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03-11-2014, 10:41 AM | #55 |
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The ETA engine was one of most de-tuned and low stress NA engines that BMW made. It was found in the 325e from '82-'86, and in the 528e from '82-'88. It was purposely built as an 'efficiency' engine, a low revving, low horsepower motor that had nice torque. I think my 325e red-lined at 5000 rpm.
Many "e" cars have survived 500,000+ miles on original engine. Here's a description of the 528e motor: "528e: Sold from 1982 to 1988. Equipped with a 2.7L "High Efficiency" M20 6-Cylinder engine that produced 121 hp (90 kW) but 171 lb·ft (232 N·m) of torque. The engine uses the small port "200" casting cylinder head from the 2.0 L M20 with a special low duration cam to improve low rpm power and maximize efficiency. This engine is known as the "ETA" engine. For the 1988 model year, the engine was revised to produce 127 hp (95 kW), by using the cylinder head casting from the "i" motor installed on the "e" engine block with special pistons. The revised ETA engine is now known as the "super eta"."
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03-11-2014, 07:22 PM | #56 |
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Reliable in what way? Reliable with no problems for the first 50k? Reliable with the fewest issues in 100k? Reliable with the best chance of going 250k?
Reliable in number of issues that require service? Reliable in $ cost of fixing those issues? IIRC the E9x M3 was one of the most reliable BMWs in 2011 or thereabouts. Does that mean it will be the most reliable BMW in 2021? Can you compare a 2-3yo M3 with an 11yo M5? The question itself raises only more questions. |
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03-13-2014, 08:26 PM | #57 |
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