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BMW M5 F90 (2018+) General Forums Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in | Oil & Fluids | Servicing | TSB | Recalls    Long time lurker with questions about break in

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      12-04-2021, 08:45 PM   #1
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Long time lurker with questions about break in

Hey everybody, I've been a bystander on this thread for quite some time. I had an F30 335 back in 2014 and I am now gearing up to take delivery of a '22 M5C (Estoril blue)

Basically I was wondering if anyone could give me a quick run down on the break in period. I plan on keeping this car for the long haul with the inevitable transition to EV coming.

Excited to start posting more often here and showing off the car when I pick it up!
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      12-05-2021, 12:44 AM   #2
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It's simple, don't rev over 5,500 rpms for the first 1,200 miles, then do the break-in service, be careful not to exceed too much the 1,200 miles before service otherwise you risk losing warranty
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      12-05-2021, 12:52 AM   #3
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Also don't go above 90 mph I believe. Or is it 100 mph I can't remember.
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      12-05-2021, 09:30 AM   #4
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Try to keep revs below 5500 rpm before break-in service (extremely difficult in this car)

Posted this in another thread:

Just had my 1200 mile service done yesterday. Got the total BS line from the SA telling me that the break-in service unlocks more power .

Oil change and rear diff fluid change were performed and car performs and sounds just like it did before the service so at least they didn't screw anything up.

One somewhat funny note is my dealership now takes video during service and they informed me that my car has summer performance tires and aren't designed for snow (really????). They also let me know that my car is blue which I wasn't aware of.
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      12-05-2021, 10:25 AM   #5
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1) dont go over 5,500rpm
2) dont go over 105mph
3) dont use cruise control
4) don't stay static at any speed or rpm
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      12-05-2021, 11:56 AM   #6
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Break-in is a highly debated topic, random internet people (including myself) act like they have all the answers, but don’t.

My brother is a BMW tech - he said to drive it like you stole it from day one. He says cars being babied out of the gate ultimately never heat cycle enough to fully seat rings and that’s the reason many BMWs consume oil from day one. Don’t sit at a constant RPM for a long time. Allow car to cool between aggressive runs before doing another.

There are arguments on both sides that make sense.
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      12-05-2021, 08:39 PM   #7
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Okay I appreciate yall's help. I'll make sure to speak with my SA and see what they prefer me to do just stay on the safe side. I live in WV but do I don't like the ONE dealer we have in the state so I drive south to the Charlotte area. I'll be able to easily put on about 300 miles while staying there and driving back home. May even take the car to Nashville for NYE and easily hit that 1200 within a couple weeks of ownership.
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      12-05-2021, 09:03 PM   #8
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Whether or not it all matters or not could be debated and people can say whatever but the manual says:

Engine, transmission, and axle drive

Up to 1,200 miles/2,000 km

Drive at varying engine and road speeds, but do not exceed 5,500 rpm and 106 mph/170 km/h. Avoid full load or kickdown under all circumstances.

It also says not to use Launch Control during the break-in period, which is kind of a no brainer.
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      12-05-2021, 09:09 PM   #9
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Constantly varying engine RPM while letting the engine brake itself is the only thing you really need to pay attention to. Keeping it away from redline matters in the first ~250 miles of any engine as the valve train seats itself and gets fully lubricated in every teeny nook and cranny, after that first 250 miles, it doesn't make a bit of difference. (Obviously driving hard on a cold engine is a dumbass move whether or not you're broken in and the usual culprit for people having issues, regardless of mileage)

During any regular driving; bring revs up to 4-5K, let it wind down under engine braking, up shift to pull revs down low, downshift to bring it back up, rinse and repeat. Someone else mentioned it but the cylinders need to thermal cycle the new liners and rings and constantly varying RPM while letting the engine brake itself is the quickest way to do that. 1200 miles is a magic number BMW uses to feel good about every person who owns one of these, by 500 miles you're as broken in as you're going to get if you're driving it right from the start.
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      12-05-2021, 09:39 PM   #10
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The EV transition is a real concern but not as imminent as some people think. It will be a little bit... Even the head of the M division stated that there will be ICE powered cars till at least 2025 for sure(i think) There's another thread on here somewhere where a user posted this info.
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      12-05-2021, 10:39 PM   #11
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Full traction off - sideways right out of the dealership is usually how my break in period starts for any / all of my cars lol.
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      12-09-2021, 03:45 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanos84 View Post
The EV transition is a real concern but not as imminent as some people think. It will be a little bit... Even the head of the M division stated that there will be ICE powered cars till at least 2025 for sure(i think) There's another thread on here somewhere where a user posted this info.

More like 2030 at least depending on demand as Bmw is doing power of choice, so as long as they have the option to build it they will and it's unlikely a lot of places will be set up for EVs. They will have platforms that can take EV, ICE, Hybrid and the D.

https://www.reuters.com/business/sus...ys-2021-10-14/
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      12-10-2021, 09:05 PM   #13
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I Love the internet!

not to repeat myself, but here it is, this isn't a discussion anymore.
my word is law and i back it up.

you know a bmw tech? cool. how about an engineer?
Listen:
The motors get dyno'd and revved to hell in a lab behind plexiglass before they get placed in the car

The break-in is for mated components to 'bond nicely' .. motor, driveshaft, tranny,diffs... not for the motor
mostly the rear differential, whose fluid comes out as silver glitter at 1200 service

now with that being said, do not drive it like you stole it!!!! the manual says everything i am saying.

but when you do drive it.. follow all the rules AND AND AND always ALWAYS get your oil to 180° and cruise.
--By never letting your oil get to temperature by only
driving 5 miles once a week is very bad. jizz will accumulate in head. no better comparison. like elmer's glue. its from condensation from not getting it to temperature.
oil's optimal operating range is 180-220°F
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      02-11-2022, 12:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor_X View Post
Break-in is a highly debated topic, random internet people (including myself) act like they have all the answers, but don’t.

My brother is a BMW tech - he said to drive it like you stole it from day one. He says cars being babied out of the gate ultimately never heat cycle enough to fully seat rings and that’s the reason many BMWs consume oil from day one. Don’t sit at a constant RPM for a long time. Allow car to cool between aggressive runs before doing another.

There are arguments on both sides that make sense.
This 100% -- drive it like you stole it.

The whole reason "break-in" was a thing in the past was because manufacturing and metallurgy wasn't good enough to prevent a lot of metal shavings from coming loose and cycling through the oil/filter with a brand new engine. These days manufacturing tolerances are so good that metal shavings aren't an issue anymore.

I've completely ignored the break-in period on both new cars and motorcycles, and I've NEVER had an issue with any of those motors. In fact, in my experience, if you baby it during the "break in" period, your engine will actually be weaker and produce slightly less power.

But that's just my experience, YMMV.
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      02-11-2022, 09:13 PM   #15
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I built an S52 for turbocharging in my E36 M3. I used the Mototune break in procedure. I was running it at the dragstrip with 200 miles. Still have it 8 years later. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Break in procedure is controversial. Google it and you will find a lot of info, most of it oriented towards the gentle break in.

Honestly, for most purposes, I doubt anyone would notice any difference and so doubt there would be performance differences that are outside the margin of error.
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      04-05-2022, 10:21 PM   #16
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Doesn't matter what forums I've visited over the years, Subaru, Toyota, Ford or AMG. Its always entertaining to see the "break in" discussion, as it ALWAYS turns into a giant b#tch fest.

There always someone who tries to be the voice of reason that references the OEM manual that gets obliterated and insulted down to being encouraged to suicide.

Always someone who knows a tech or a car builder, thats says X Y or Z (normally opposite of the Manual)

Someone that says OEM Manual is just a giant conspiracy, and engineers who wrote it only want you to mess up the engine so the Dealers make more money in the service department (normally they do the opposite of what the manual says)

Someone who owned 20 cars before and always drove them hard during break in and never had a single issue (normally trade cars before they get to 30k miles)

And since most manufacturers don't recommend a break in oil change, there is always a huge discussion about weather to change the oil at 1000 mile break in and whether the recommended 7/10k oil changes are spread to far apart. There is always the one guy who still does 3K full synthetic oil changes on his brand new machine because that's how his daddy taught him on their 1956 Ford Fairlane.
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      04-09-2022, 02:53 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFBravo View Post
Doesn't matter what forums I've visited over the years, Subaru, Toyota, Ford or AMG. Its always entertaining to see the "break in" discussion, as it ALWAYS turns into a giant b#tch fest.

There always someone who tries to be the voice of reason that references the OEM manual that gets obliterated and insulted down to being encouraged to suicide.

Always someone who knows a tech or a car builder, thats says X Y or Z (normally opposite of the Manual)

Someone that says OEM Manual is just a giant conspiracy, and engineers who wrote it only want you to mess up the engine so the Dealers make more money in the service department (normally they do the opposite of what the manual says)

Someone who owned 20 cars before and always drove them hard during break in and never had a single issue (normally trade cars before they get to 30k miles)

And since most manufacturers don't recommend a break in oil change, there is always a huge discussion about weather to change the oil at 1000 mile break in and whether the recommended 7/10k oil changes are spread to far apart. There is always the one guy who still does 3K full synthetic oil changes on his brand new machine because that's how his daddy taught him on their 1956 Ford Fairlane.
Very well said. Found someone (I don’t remember where the post is) that said he puts mineral oil in the car as soon as he drives it off the lot for the first 300 miles, then switches to synthetic for another 300, and then back to mineral until the end of break in where he gets it serviced at bmw, then promptly drives it home and puts his own synthetic oil in it. Craziest procedure I’ve ever seen 😂😂
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      04-17-2022, 01:22 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5_mbb7 View Post
Very well said. Found someone (I don’t remember where the post is) that said he puts mineral oil in the car as soon as he drives it off the lot for the first 300 miles, then switches to synthetic for another 300, and then back to mineral until the end of break in where he gets it serviced at bmw, then promptly drives it home and puts his own synthetic oil in it. Craziest procedure I’ve ever seen 😂😂
Old mechanic I'm sure. Depends on how you make the engine. If it's "rough" and the "break in" actually "breaks in" the rings and cylinders, then the wonderful oil we use now slows this process down. Then the procedure above details how it would be done if the engines were truly rough. I'm told that older M5's only used blocks that had been broken in by other cars and were rebuilt. I do not know if that was ever true. I doubt it is now.

You have to depend on the manufacturer to know and be honest about what's best for the engine, and not what's best for THEM. (rather than you). BMW's track record isn't BAD, but it isn't as good as some.

Shawn
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      04-20-2022, 11:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDD31 View Post
Try to keep revs below 5500 rpm before break-in service (extremely difficult in this car)

Posted this in another thread:

Just had my 1200 mile service done yesterday. Got the total BS line from the SA telling me that the break-in service unlocks more power .

Oil change and rear diff fluid change were performed and car performs and sounds just like it did before the service so at least they didn't screw anything up.

One somewhat funny note is my dealership now takes video during service and they informed me that my car has summer performance tires and aren't designed for snow (really????). They also let me know that my car is blue which I wasn't aware of.

Front diff fluid should be part of break in as well.
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