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08-20-2008, 08:39 AM | #1 |
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My attempt to Z4 sound system
So, being an audio freak.. i couldn't stand the sound system in the car, no matter how ppl claim it is GOOD for a stock system. yes.. GOOD FOR STOCK.
I have a 04 3.0i with the carver system and will attempt to tap in from the factory amplifiers. I will have pictures up for the parts soon, and the project should take place on the weekend of Sept 1st (long weekend in canada) The part list includes MB Quart Premium PVI-210 Components (4" Midbass, 1" Tweeter) MB Quart Premium PVI-164 6.5" Mid Bass JL 300/4 for Bi-amp on the front stage JL 300/2 for Subwoofers in the factory location JL Audio 6w3v3 Subwoofers JL Cleansweep CLS441-DSP JL Cleansweep CLS-SSI (Signal Sum for the front 3 channels) Sosche LOC to convert the signal for the Subwoofers channel. Enjoy! Last edited by xg3; 04-05-2009 at 07:58 PM.. |
08-21-2008, 09:28 AM | #4 |
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This is similar to the project I did. I don't know of any other members with fully worked systems. I went with new HU too...
Pioneer Avic N4 flipout DVD / Navigation unit Phoenix Gold XS6600 amp (600w x 6 channels) Rainbow 365.25 3-way components up front (6.5 woofer, 4 mid, 1.2 tweet) Tang Band 6.5" maxX woofers Stage: Bridge 2 channels for each side of the front 3-ways (200w per side), 1 channel for each TB woofer, set at 100w each. My question to you would be why aren't you going to run a new HU? If you use the stock, you'll have to LOC the signals since you can't get a tappable HU out, and you'll lose quality through the amp's processing. You'll also have to loc ALL of the speakers together back to that cleansweep to let it process and create a full range signal. Obviously you've thought of this already, but I'm curious why you would go through all that hassle, extra equipment and wiring, when replacing the HU would go miles for improving the path, not to mention allow better aftermarket integration. Just a thought. I have a huge writeup over on bf.C site of all of this if it can help, and I'm around all the boards. Also, be ready with your dremel for mounting the tweets, they were a pain! |
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08-21-2008, 10:54 AM | #5 |
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i dont see the post you have there...
can you link me up? I decided to keep the factory deck, because i really want to stick with a factory look this time... on my last car, i went all out.. i need to take the signal from after the amp, because this is a DSP system, deck and amp is connected via k-bus (optical). |
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08-21-2008, 11:03 AM | #7 |
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I was the SC State Champion in SQ in my power division back in 2001, but I don't want to go all out again. Any advantage to replace the stock subs while leaving everything ese stock? Any sub recommendations?
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08-21-2008, 01:51 PM | #8 |
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umm
i think Ebay has some jl audio 6w0, which will work with the stock amplifier... for the w3v3 it needs 100-150 watt rms, stock is only 50 i belive. i heard good thing about the 6w0 also! |
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08-21-2008, 02:28 PM | #9 |
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lemme know about those w3v3's. I'm looking for better 6.5"s, but not sure anything really exists that is much better than what I've already got.
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08-27-2008, 11:54 PM | #11 | |
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If you have the Carver/ Premium sound system like I do, dont touch anything, there isn't anything short of a few thousand for the full speaker package, that can touch the factory Carver sound system. |
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08-28-2008, 12:04 PM | #12 | |
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I have tang band woofers (W6-1139SI 6-1/2" subwoofers) being fed a clean signal from a Pioneer HU. I read a ton of positive reviews of them on caraudio.com diyma so I went with them. They really punch (and have a huge excursion range for such small woofers) but I find them to be lacking in tone for more casual listening. So if I'm listening to loud music w/ heavy bass, they are there and sweet, but if I'm listening casually to sat radio or easier music on my ipod they just seem absent. |
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08-28-2008, 01:45 PM | #13 |
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so everything is here! i am building an amp rack!
i have a LOC at home somewhere.. gotta find it for the subs. hopefully it will be completed in 2 weeks! |
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09-10-2008, 08:12 AM | #15 |
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So, lets get some update going.
Tweeter installation required me to beat up the factory tweeter holder, open up the hole to mount the tweeter. The factory tweeter is glue'ed into place (kinda stupid if you ask me). The opening of the hole is approx 1", however there is a smaller mounting plate inside, that reduces the hole to about .5" (the size of the tweeter dome). Mid bass installation went without a hitch. easy. direct fit. Front low bass, required drilling of a new screw holes, but again was relatively easy to accomplish. Subwoofer, the JL 6w3v3 WILL NOT fit, it does not clear the depth of the factory enclosure, by approximately .5". Wirings, probably the easiest part of the job, follow the Tutorial on this site somewhere. cut / slice and connect. No brainer. Will have pics soon! Last edited by xg3; 09-11-2008 at 04:02 PM.. |
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09-10-2008, 08:13 AM | #16 |
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PS. don't both amplifying the front components if you don't plan on changing the sub, factory sub is having a hard time (actually impossible time) in keeping up with the 300/4 on the front channels.
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09-10-2008, 08:26 AM | #17 | |
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He is correct, u can't go 1/2 ass in this car... is either all or nothing... Sounds like crap if you just change a portion of it... So don't bother if you are not going to go for the ultimate of all ultimate. |
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09-10-2008, 10:26 AM | #18 |
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I've been preaching that for ages
Sucks to hear the w3v3 won't fit. The 6w0 will if you want to stick w/ JL. There are tons of options in this size though. Let me know what else you try. |
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