[AlexTampabay]

Hey Guys I have owned several heavy modded cars in the past and my

most recent was the 2025 BMW M4. I got it up to 670 RWH then got

bored and sold it.

This time I am interested in the M5 Platform AWD Competition

Is there a better year to buy and with which features?

I would like to go stage 2 around 800 RWH for the Streets

[pbonsalb]

There is some risk due to the torque, rod strength and detonation risk at 800 AWHP. If you can feed in the boost more slowly to limit torque in the low to mid range, the risk is reduced. 750 AWHP would be safer, with torque at 700 lbs or less.

[Mpower1981]

Keep in mind that the S63 engine is way more complicated then the S58 engine! If you push the S63 too much on stock infernale you wil blow up this engine. Just keep the Numbers safe and enjoy it, or do it the correct way and build the engine with better rods enz and go for it. The year does not really matter all S63 engines have the weak rods.

[AlexTampabay]

The S63 is Mercedes and I'm going with BMW M5

Is it worth getting the competition?

does the years matter witch one I get?

2018 or 2019 2020 or 2021?

[pbonsalb]

S63 is part of the name the engine in the 2018-2023 BMW F90M5. The full name of the engine is S63Tu4.

[Strickland]

For the M5 Comp AWD, I’d go for a clean 2020-2021 LCI. Early cars had minor issues (coolant tank etc.) that got sorted, plus you get that raw exhaust note many prefer.

Stage 2 (downpipes, intakes, solid tune) easily hits 750-850 RWH on E40/93 plenty of reliable street builds with AWD traction. Prioritize low-mile CCB Comp with full service history and PPI.

[AlexTampabay]

ok ok thank you for advice

[Mpower1981]

Originally Posted by AlexTampabay

The S63 is Mercedes and I'm going with BMW M5

Is it worth getting the competition?

does the years matter witch one I get?

2018 or 2019 2020 or 2021?

🤣🤣 so you want to buy a M5 but does not know the type of engine is inside the car…..

[allinon72]

Originally Posted by Mpower1981

🤣🤣 so you want to buy a M5 but does not know the type of engine is inside the car…..

Lets give him the benefit of the doubt since he’s new to BMW….even though it’s pretty unbelievable to believe someone would suggest a Mercedes on a BMW forum.

[zman21]

I would agree with those above in general although CCBs are not required. But...it depends on how you are going to employ your car. I have them on all my other high end sports cars and yes, they are awesome, but I bought my F90 without them and upgraded to aftermarket pads. Yes, a little more dust than CCBs, but I'd argue stopping power is equal or greater. I don't track though. If you find a great comp (21-22) without them, you can always upgrade the pads, but all things being equal, if you find one with them, and everything else checks out, do it.

And yes, pbonsalb is correct on "Tu4." One of my good friends in GER is the chief engineer behind the design of that engine. Minus a few small things, it's still a phenomenal engine.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by zman21

I would agree with those above in general although CCBs are not required. But...it depends on how you are going to employ your car. I have them on all my other high end sports cars and yes, they are awesome, but I bought my F90 without them and upgraded to aftermarket pads. Yes, a little more dust than CCBs, but I'd argue stopping power is equal or greater. I don't track though. If you find a great comp (21-22) without them, you can always upgrade the pads, but all things being equal, if you find one with them, and everything else checks out, do it.

I agree with this. CCB are great for pedal feel and track driving and they dust little compared to iron rotors and stock pads. Car magazines have tested M5 with iron rotors and CCBs and the difference in 70-0 stopping is minimal. In one test, the iron rotors car stopped a few feet shorter. Where the CCB are better enough to measure is on the track due to the heat from repeated stopping that is better handled by carbon fiber than iron. Still, some track guys remove CCB and convert to iron because the CCB can wear and crack and are ridiculously expensive to replace. They report their lap times are slightly higher and there can be fade on some tracks. Few M5 owners track their cars. Many claim to drive hard, but they are not coming close to the brake heat levels of tracking unless they live in sparsely travels canyons or mountains.

Cosmetics seems to be what matters most to most CCB buyers. The dust from stock brakes, and often squealing, is obnoxious. It bothers some more than others. I don’t really care. Some buy low dust brake pads, which are typically ceramic. They dust less but also have less brake feel and cannot handle as much heat so stopping distances grow. For most, that does not matter because they do not drive that hard.

Last year, I installed new iron rotors with aftermarket EBC Bluestuff NDX pads and am happy. The Bluestuff pads can take a little more heat than stock, not that I think I drive hard enough to need more stopping power (and my car is modded well beyond the typical stage 2). They still dust, but I have not heard a squeal yet and it has been 6k miles.

There are now aftermarket CCB rotors and pads that use the stock calipers. There is a thread on this conversion. So far the buyers, who paid about $5k total, are happy. The only motivator for me would be the unsprung weight savings, but I doubt I will still have my M5 in 5 years when I may be close to needing new brakes again. I hope some of the aftermarket CCB guys do some track driving so we can see how they hold up under hard use.