Quote:
Originally Posted by Spinnetti
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave-A
I'm interested in the re- indexing business- can you link me?
I wouldn't think it's necessary in our cars as we don't have adaptive dampening.
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its unrelated to adaptive suspension.. I read the linked post, and there looked like one guy who knew what he was talking about - The bushings in the control arm are bolted tight. Lowering the car, twists those bushings more than from the factory and will lead to their early demise, or what people think is "settling" of springs as the bushings either relax or tear... All it is is loosening the control arm bolts, bounce the car a couple times sitting on its wheels and tightening the bolts. That makes sure all the bushings are in a "neutral" position... Honestly, changing springs is simple. Sometimes can be a bit of a pain, but its not complex (need a spring compressor for the fronts at least). My current dd is a bug turbo, and if you timed me, I think I could do the rears in less than 10 minutes for both, and maybe 30min a side for the fronts. I just did it in my driveway after work this past summer. While you are in there, you can throw in some camber plates too  Alignment after all that is a good idea as it will change a bit - the camber change is usually beneficial but it tends to change toe a bit too (usually toe-in) which is good to reset. |
Agreed, nothing to worry about on the front, just a couple of the upper rear arms might need the bushings reset. Lower arms are always at the same resting position no matter the spring installed. The BMW suspension kits don't have you mess with the bushings. You need to remember that you are lowering the body not the suspension components on this car.