Quote:
Originally Posted by B-1 Pilot
Dude absolutely you should clay it first! make sure you use lots of clay lube of some sort and a light hand.
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I agree, however, would add that you should start with a non-aggressive clay bar if this is your first time claying (sonus green, etc.), as aggressive clay bars can easily mar the paintwork (will need to polish to fix clay bar marring). If you have bought an aggressive clay bar, don't use it (you'll potentially cause a lot more damage than the cost of the clay bar). Ensure you wash & rinse the clay lube after claying and to fully prep the paint prior to applying a sealant, I would recommend a wipe down 50% IPA or panel wipe (also removes polishing oils, fillers, etc. to reveal the true finish of the clear coat, so paintwork needs to be free of swirls if you want to do this), as this will ensure the sealant adheres to the clear coat better & maximises its potential.
As a test, get a thin plastic bag, put your hand inside and gently rub across the paintwork; if it feels rough, you need to fully decontaminate the surface. If you are serious about detailing, you should use something like a citrus pre-wash & tar remover after washing & rinsing but prior to claying (minimises potential for clay bar marring). If you do go the chemical route, don't let these sit on the paint for too long.
It's amazing how much contamination a clay bar can lift from a car with delivery miles only, let alone one with 1700 miles.
You only need to be cautious (with clay bars, etc.) if your paint is not 'factory', i.e. you have had a recent respray and the paint is not yet fully cured.