[Jambo1]

A couple of notes for some comments early / middle of this thread above to provide clarity for those members.

Yes, pushing the piston without the tool will damage the caliper if the EPB motor is attached and not actuated using software / scan to get the calipers in service mode.

I didn’t have my scan tool on hand, nor my brake service tool set, so I removed the two EPB motor bolts (hex bit in my case, in contrast to some having a torx fastener), and turned the gear on the back of the caliper (not the EPB motor itself), clockwise until it stopped.

This gear behind the caliper piston requires a triple square bit, and of all the triple square bits, I happened to be missing this one. It just was one of those times I felt I didn’t have my shit together.

I used a T45 Torx bit which fit perfectly, and turned by hand. I then bolted the motor back on and was able to easily push the piston back with one thumb (with brake reservoir cap opened - could alternatively crack open the bleed screw as you’re pushing the piston back).

Apply quality grease in the appropriate areas of the pads and install.

For the front calipers on our cars, there IS a special coating on where the pad touches that should not be cleaned with an abrasive brush, nor can it be greased. It’s only supposed to be cleaned well with brake cleaner. For those that have cleaned it up in a conventional way and greased, I wouldn’t sweat it - almost certain most dealerships and shops would overlook this and wouldn’t hurt anything in the grand scheme of things. Only the magical special coating would be diminished. Would be nice to find out the technical reasons for this way of manufacture and maintenance for the front caliper.

Hope this helps someone. Let’s see how my iSweep iS2000 pads do henceforth.