Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan stewart
Wait, read the bottom of your other post.
The switch with the two black wires is in the bedroom? Then you can probably get the "no floodlight option" because black can be both line and load. I suspect those two wires tied in are each run to the load side, remove one and turn the switch on and see what happens. Usually the line (aka HOT) is going to the switch nearest to the panel and if youre carrying line to other circuits its protocol to tie them with a nut and hang a pigtail for the switch in the box (like they did with with the common/neutral), not wire them into the switch.
You can kill the circuit in the panel but I would suggest investing in one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-To...T1PR/317460355 just in case. Getting hit with 120 hurts. |
The switch with the two black wires is in the garage. But the circuit itself is part of the bedroom lights and sockets breaker. And I have that exact tester pen. It's literally a lifesaver.
I finally called an electrician I've worked with before. Hopefully he can get here in a day or two. Yesterday I went to install a Wemo switch in a simple 3-way (or so I thought) and was baffled to find a black wire tied to a white neutral and a white wire carrying the load. I can only guess that the electrician who put in the original circuit just reversed the normal use of the wires, but I need to be sure before I burn the house down.
EDIT: Wow, this may be how the circuit with the joined white and black wires is configured. I'll have to pull down the light fixture and see if there is just a white neutral running to it.